Fungus on a palm tree what to do. Washington palm: what do the yellow spots say? About pests that affect indoor palm trees

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them are complex, requiring a special approach in treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust - a disease of indoor plants - a rare, but dangerous, capable of destroying a flower. The name of this flower disease is explained by the appearance of the lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of domestic plants, slightly convex and as if fleecy. Actually, it's a fungus. Treatment of home flowers affected by it is long and complicated. Be sure to reconsider the conditions in which the plant is located, and the scheme of care.

Ficus, completely infected with rust, is very difficult to cure.

Rust on plants is not so difficult to recognize, the signs of this disease are specific, they cannot be confused or missed.

1. First, rust appears on the leaves and on the stems of house flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown convex spots of various sizes and shapes.
2. The spots increase in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants evaporate moisture intensively, the pustules quickly dry out, crack and burst. A “rusty” powder is poured out of them, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are fungal spores that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
3. Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaf and stems, appear on the flowers. Plants change color, become brown or brown.
4. Then indoor flowers begin to dry and lose leaves, if treatment is not started, the plants will die.

However, even if you start taking action, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from the disease. Therefore, it is better not to allow its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Reasons for the appearance

Rust is a fungal disease, and the fungus, as you know, loves to settle where it is humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust on plants appears if they are watered too often and abundantly, not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. Many flowers in the cold season fall into a dormant state until spring, they do not need frequent watering, as well as mineral supplements. If, in addition to this, the pot is near the battery, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Over-watering houseplants can lead to rust infestation.

Also, the development of the fungus can provoke the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter, they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering of plants, you should strictly follow the instructions and do not make too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If pots with plants are on an open terrace, veranda or balcony, then the spores of the fungus can be carried by wind or insects. Sometimes seeds are already infected with rust. It is difficult to recognize this, often impossible at all. This is one of the reasons why the seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. As well as containers with soil in which they will land.

Which indoor plants are affected more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on houseplants of any kind. But certain varieties of fungus love more than others. In addition, there are house flowers that are more sensitive to fungus spores, and are not able to fight it. The following ornamental crops should be protected from moisture and overheating with special care:

• camellia;
• fuchsia;
• carnation;
• cyclamen;
• pelargonium;
• the Rose;
• geranium;
• chrysanthemum.

A cameo sheet damaged by rust is no longer subject to treatment.

This fungus likes to settle on horticultural crops such as asparagus and citrus shrubs, and often it infects palm trees of various types.

Treat and prevent disease

In most cases, the flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they do not properly care for their plants. In order to prevent the formation and spread of the fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do if a fungus nevertheless settled on the plant and its leaves began to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent infection of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower can no longer be saved. Therefore, a sick flower must be immediately taken to a hotel room. Affected leaves break off every single one, even if they have only a few small specks of rust. Then they need to be burned away from the flower garden.

Bordeaux mixture is used to control rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be treated with the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also prepare such a disinfectant mixture yourself:

• heat 5 liters of purified water;
• dissolve 200 g of green soap in water;
• add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the potted plant is located must be well ventilated several times a day, and it is better to keep the window open at all times. Neither dry air nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant properly. The liquid should be added to the pan or to the ground, but so that the water gets under the root, and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If top dressing is used, then preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of a spray preparation that you can prepare yourself.

Beginning gardeners often confuse rust with any red spots on plant leaves and start spraying the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from an improperly applied remedy. Therefore, if there is a suspicion that a plant is affected by a fungus, you should either familiarize yourself with high-quality photos of the symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to inspect the plants and diagnose.

Rust can also manifest differently in different colors and cultures. On some flowers, it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, for weeks and months. In any case, you need to treat the plant, the most important points in this process are to ensure a constant supply of fresh air and remove the affected parts of the flower. Treatment with a disinfectant solution is recommended to be repeated 10-12 days after the first spraying.

Infectious diseases, caused by pathogenic fungi.

root rot- the disease occurs due to waterlogging of the soil. The leaves turn yellow, then turn dark, and the palm quickly dies. The development of rot is accelerated by excessive watering, sudden changes in temperature, as well as a lack of minerals. Treatment is possible only at the initial stage of the disease. The plant is removed from the flowerpot and cut off the affected roots. Then they are immersed for 15-20 minutes in a suspension solution of fungicides containing copper or zinc (kuprozan, homecin, cinebaftalan). The wounds are sprinkled with charcoal powder or ground cinnamon. Before planting, the soil is steamed (you can use the old one). By poured 2 times after planting with a solution of fungicides.

stem rot also occurs with excessive moisture and high humidity. On wet dark, gray or almost black spots a whitish or pink coating of sporulation of the fungus is noticeable. The disease develops very quickly, and the plant dies. It is necessary at the very beginning of the development of rot to remove all affected parts of the stem and leaves and transplant the plant into new soil. If the disease is running, so as not to infect other plants, the palm is destroyed.

palm penicillosis. The main signs of the disease are the defeat of the smallest, youngest leaves at the top of the shoot. Gradually increasing necrotic (shrunken) areas are formed on them, sometimes a whitish coating is noticeable - these are spores of the fungus. There is an ugly deformation of young leaves.
The fungus constantly lives and feeds on organic, undecomposed residues in the soil, but immediately migrates to palm leaves when its resistance to diseases decreases. Prevention of penicillosis is the maintenance of optimal temperature and light conditions. It is important that water does not get on the growing point.

leaf spot(brown or yellow), caused by pathogenic fungi and bacteria are less common. Spots can be of very different sizes and colors, sometimes with a border and develop faster in conditions of high humidity. Plants are treated with a systemic fungicide topsin, spraying 2-3 times in 15 days. Before spraying, remove all affected leaves.

With insufficiently good care, various spots, wilting and drying out of a physiological nature occur, the so-called not and infectious diseases.

Brown spots on leaves appear as a result of excess moisture in the soil, or due to a sharp drop in air temperature, or from too hard water.

Lower leaves turning brown usually with natural aging. They can become very dark and die. It's not scary, dead leaves are removed.

brown tips on leaves appear when the air in the room is very dry. It may also be due to a lack of moisture in the soil or the influence of cold. When growing palms on a windowsill, do not let the leaves come into contact with the cold glass of the window in winter.

Round spots with brown edges occurs when the leaves are burned. Therefore, in summer, when placing palm trees on a south window or balcony, try to protect the plants from direct sunlight.

Leaves turn pale due to too much light. In addition, pallor can be a cause of damage to the red spider mite.

Leaves turn yellow due to insufficient watering, hard water, and also due to the poverty of the soil with minerals. Do not forget to fertilize the soil and use settled water for irrigation.

leaf drying palm trees occur when waterlogging, compaction of the soil substrate and, accordingly, poor air throughput to the roots, hypothermia, watering with cold water, poor drainage and, as a result, stagnant water and rotting of the roots

Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, in orchids tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.

Alternariosis and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. It looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• : 100 g per 10 liters of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatment, as in .

Dropsy leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, they seem watery, but are actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these particular roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas affect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the lower side of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates in heavy acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.

Seed preparation for sowing:

• immersion in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. You can get more modern preparations: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually buy them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower, fungicides are available:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, becoming a rich gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.

From domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulias, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the alert - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same products as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to such fungicides as topaz , fast

You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop treatments 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures in the range of 28-31 °.
• The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to carry out spraying using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.

Prevention

Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular airing of the rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

• (0,2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. It is caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high air humidity, but even with good care, infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new store-bought potted plants, such as gerberas. The infection can also get with garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

• abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 10 g per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
• strobe
• 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the species requirements of orchids and other plants - a deviation from the norm and the usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

• Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
• strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.

root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.

late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, then the soil in the pot should have time to dry out by the next watering by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, sheffler). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

• Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
• Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
• 3 ml per 2 liters of water
• baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
• oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
• hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to diseases, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out also slowly.

Prevention of spotting

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.

Control measures

In garden conditions, any plant debris with stains from dead plants should be collected and destroyed. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
• copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok preparations - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

• fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water

black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:

• verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
• fusarium wilt (fusarium)
• malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If there are unfavorable conditions for the development of the fungus, then the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia is 25-27°C, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conductive vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and enters the plant through soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water by dipping as needed for a short time (5 minutes is sufficient). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by shedding it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Maxim, or applying trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

For a long time, many interiors of houses are decorated with palm trees. These beautiful plants from subtropical and tropical latitudes have long been loved by everyone. In addition, a lot of their decorative varieties have appeared that can decorate any room, regardless of its size, as there are even miniature views. And in order for her to please the eye, she needs to be given proper care. Therefore, it is worth knowing the basic rules on how to care for a room palm tree.

First you need to choose the right place where it will stand. It should be well lit, but direct sunlight should not be allowed. You also need to ensure sufficient air humidification, this can be done using a conventional sprayer or, if possible, put a humidifier. When choosing a place for a palm tree, you need to consider that it is afraid of drafts, so it is better not to put it under the opening windows. This is especially true in winter, when there is also a risk of hypothermia, which will also negatively affect this plant.

As for watering, it should be moderate, waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed, this is fraught with rotting of the roots. In winter, you need to water once a week, and in summer once every three days. In any case, before watering, it is necessary to test the soil, if it is still wet, then it is impossible to water.

The palm tree does not tolerate various damages, especially for the roots. Therefore, when transplanting, you need to handle them carefully, you can only remove rotten ones, and healthy ones, try to disturb them as little as possible. Dry castings can only be cut when they are completely dry with the stem, you can not cut the dried tips of the leaves. It is also worth noting that a young plant needs to be transplanted in the spring every year, and when it is five years old, the transplant is done no more than once every four years. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the roots, if they support the walls, you should take a new larger pot. With regards to soil, it is better to buy it special for palm trees.

With the right caring for indoor palm you need to feed with special additives for flowers, which can be purchased at any flower shop. Immediately after transplantation, a young plant that does not need to be fed up to a year. Older ones should be watered with these special additives once a week from March to September, when they are actively growing.

Diseases of indoor palm trees, how to treat them

Proper care of any plants is necessary not only for their full growth, but also to avoid various diseases. After all, they can appear not only from environmental factors, but also from improper care. Sometimes, without knowing it, you can harm the plant. Therefore, in indoor floriculture, you need to know everything how to care for and how to treat.

It is clear that the palm tree is also subject to such risks. One of her most common ailments is yellowness, fading of leaves, stem. In this case, you need to pay attention to watering, it is quite possible that it is insufficient. Also, water for irrigation must be defended so that it is soft. Such a color can also indicate a lack of light, dry air or a low temperature in the room, which is uncomfortable for her.

This solution will also help in the fight against spider mites. And the signs of his defeat are cobwebs, sluggish leaves. As a rule, a soapy solution is enough to eliminate it, but if not, then you need to treat the palm with an actellik solution. Exactly the same way of dealing with mealybugs, because of which the leaves are bent.

Quite common house palm disease is an spotting, caused by a fungus. Spots spread throughout the leaf, if there are a lot of them, the leaf dies off over time. As with any other fungal disease, the cause is the increased humidity of the substrate, its excessive compaction, as a result of which air does not reach the roots. Also, the development of fungi can be hypothermia or watering with cold water. If such spots are found, the palm tree must be treated with a copper-containing preparation.

There may be other fungal diseases in which the plant becomes covered small dark spots- disputes. In this case, it is worth removing the affected areas and treating the palm with fungicides.

With excessive watering, not only fungal diseases can occur, but they can begin wither leaves. Therefore, it is so important to properly care for the plant. The soil should not be very dense, as this will prevent the passage of air to the roots; when transplanting, you need to take care of drainage in advance so that there is no stagnant water and the roots do not rot. It is also necessary to humidify the air and protect from direct sunlight. Thus, the beauty and health of a plant mainly depends on proper care for it.

Take the test

Have you been able to experiment with new recipes and dishes while cooking?

The date palm is one of the most common and attractive indoor ornamental plants and belongs to the palm family.

Despite the unpretentiousness of this plant, the date palm, like many other indoor plants, is quite often exposed to various pests and diseases.

To prevent the occurrence date palm diseases and pests, it is very important to be able to recognize them, know the causes of their occurrence and take all necessary measures in time.

The main pests that cause diseases of the date palm

The red spider mite is one of the most dangerous and difficult to remove pests of indoor plants. The most favorable conditions for its development are high temperature and dry air. A small tick (up to 0.5 mm) infects the plant most often in spring, damages the stem (with severe infection and leaves), biting into the skin, after which yellowish or gray spots remain on them, the leaves and stem crack and die. In the later stages of the lesion, the entire plant is covered with cobwebs and dies.

Mealybug - is a sucking insect that settles in the axils of the leaves and forms large clusters on the youngest shoots and leaves of the plant, sucking the juice out of them, greatly delaying the development and growth of plants. The infected plant is covered with a white coating that looks like a cobweb.

thrips- an insect that damages indoor plants and causes diseases of the date palm by laying eggs in leaf tissue. This pest stays on the plant in large groups along the veins located on the underside of the leaves. Brown-brown spots appear on the underside of the damaged leaves, and whitish on the upper side. With a large-scale infection, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off, subsequently the date palm dries.

Treatment and prevention of date palm diseases

The methods of pest removal, prevention and treatment of any date palm disease caused by pests are the same. For mechanical removal of the pest, it is necessary to wash the surface of the leaves with warm soapy water and irradiate with an ultraviolet lamp. Next, spray with water and pollinate the plant with pyrethrum powder or ground sulfur. You can get rid of the date palm disease caused by pests by spraying the plant five times with an aqueous solution of pyrethrum, actellik, phosphamide, fitoverm or fosalone (2 g per liter of water, the interval between sprayings is 7 days).

A radical method of combating any type of pest is considered to be the treatment of a plant with medical alcohol - wiping it with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or spraying it with a fine sprayer. Measures to prevent the appearance of pests are regular washing and spraying of plants with water in the summer to prevent dry air, regular thorough inspection of the plant, removal of dry leaves and keeping the plant clean. Date palm from the stone.

Fungal and bacterial diseases of the date palm

Date palm diseases can be caused by various viruses, bacteria and fungi. With viral diseases, a mosaic pattern appears on the leaves of plants, and with fungal and bacterial diseases, putrefactive diseases appear. The most dangerous disease is rot, which appears in most cases in winter - at low air temperatures and at the same time high soil moisture. When rot appears, palm leaves become soft, lose color and fall off, the stem also becomes soft, which leads to the inevitable death of the plant.

Quite often, such a fungal disease as gray spotting occurs, in which old leaves are damaged first of all, irregularly shaped gray spots and a large number of small black dots with fungal spores form on them. The treatment of date palm diseases consists in removing the affected parts of the plant and treating the entire plant with fungicides - this will save the life of the plant.

When a plant is infected with viruses carried by insects, there are no radical control measures, so you can only improve plant care. In case of severe damage, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed along with the soil, the dishes must be disinfected. To prevent the spread of date palm diseases to healthy plants, it is necessary to carry out chemical treatment twice a year with preparations designed to combat pathogens and pests.