Additional light for flowers and houseplants is a success and a guarantee of their long flowering. In order for your flowers to receive a sufficient amount of light, it is recommended to build special racks for them and equip them with suitable lamps. It is not at all difficult to do this at home, the simple ideas provided below will let you understand how do-it-yourself lighting for flowers in an apartment is made.

What is it for?

Before you get started, remember that not all flowers like a lot of light. But backlighting has the following advantages:

• allows you to illuminate the flowers completely, so that they will grow evenly, without stretching and modifying;
• allows the plant to develop properly to an adult form;
• prolongs daylight hours.

The main feature of additional light is its approximation to the natural and natural spectrum of the sun.

Where to begin?

In the apartment, plants should be placed so that they have enough light, if there are few such places, then special lamps are used. We talked about that in a separate article. Highlighting flowers with your own hands is done very simply, for this you need:

1. Prepare a place where flowers and lights will be. You can do this in several places. For example, on the windowsill, on the window, on a stand or on a rack.
2. Design fasteners for lighting elements.
3. Conduct wiring to the fixtures to connect them to the electrical network.

Choosing lamps

The most important step is the choice of lighting fixtures. To illuminate the home flora in a room, lamps must be carefully chosen. For indoor plants, visible light (daylight spectrum) is considered the most acceptable. Its location on the scale is shown in the picture below:

Located between ultraviolet and infrared radiation. Lamps are able to create a light that is close to natural light.

LED lighting is very popular. LEDs are materials that in the modern world have been actively used not only in production, but also in everyday life. The LED strip will look good on the shelves, and it will not heat the air and at the same time will be able to illuminate a large area.

The advantages of LED strips and lamps for illuminating flowers include:

• creating the perfect lighting for plants, which combines two important spectra at once - blue and red;
• the LED lamp gives out sufficient light for lighting and plant growth, while consuming a small amount of electricity;
• the cost of LEDs pays off in a short time;
• LED products are light and easy to install, and do not require special knowledge during operation.

Using a lamp requires the purchase of a special lighting device into which it will be screwed. With LED strip, everything is much simpler: it is attached to any furniture where flowers are located or to the wall itself, thanks to the adhesive backing.

In order to make a lamp for illuminating flowers in an apartment, there is no need to have certain knowledge or skills. You can make it easily with the help of the following elements:

• LEDs (preferably blue and red, which flowers love);
• thermal paste or hot melt adhesive, the second option will cost more;
• the basis for the product, any material that is at hand can serve as a base: a profile from furniture, a ruler or a piece of aluminum;
• to stabilize the current and provide the necessary voltage, you need a power supply or driver;
• cord, switch and plug.

In order for the flowers to be illuminated optimally correctly, it is recommended to alternate the LEDs as follows: 2 red and one blue, as shown in the photo below:

You can do it yourself as follows: connect them to the driver with the help, and, in turn, connect it to the plug and switch. The backlight is fixed to the surface thanks to double tape or bolts, if required by the design. Then it is connected in one chain with a power supply (or driver), a cord, a switch, and the plug completes the circuit.

We make a rack

You can make a flower lighting rack at home quickly and easily and at the same time save on space for plants by arranging them in several tiers. To assemble the rack you will need either a wooden bar or a metal corner. Bolts and self-tapping screws are used for fastening. An example of a good homemade rack:

The dimensions of the structure will depend on what flowers will be there, and in what place it will stand (if the room is not very large, then the huge rack will look irrelevant and awkward, and will only crush with its presence). It is recommended to do no more than three rows. Each shelf and each row is illuminated by its own lamp, which is located above the plant.

After watching these videos, you can get some simple ideas for yourself on how to make lamps and a rack for lighting flowers:

That's actually all that we wanted to tell you on this issue. We hope that now you know how to make lighting for flowers in an apartment with your own hands!

A series of articles on plant lighting from toptropicals.com

Part 1. Why light plants

Indoor plants are very unlucky: they have to grow in a "cave", and everyone knows that plants do not grow in caves. The happiest plants get sunny windowsills, but such an arrangement in relation to the light is, rather, an analogue of the undergrowth under a tall tree, when the sun gets only either in the early morning or in the evening, and even then it is scattered by the foliage of the tree.
Perhaps the most unique plant lighting option was my previous home, when we lived on the eighteenth floor of a detached house. The windows were large (almost the entire wall), no other houses or trees blocked them. My plants did not need any light at all and managed to bloom 5-6 times a year (for example, bougainvilleas and callistemones). But, you know, such a detached house is a rather rare phenomenon.
Usually plants in room conditions really lack light (and not only in winter, but also in summer), and there is little light - no development, no growth, no flowering. This is where the question arises about additional illumination of plants in order to compensate for their lack of illumination in the conditions of a "cave" room.
Sometimes plants are grown completely without daylight - only due to lamps (for example: in a room where there are no windows; or if the plants are far from the window).
Before lighting plants, you need to decide whether you are going to illuminate them or fully illuminate them. If you only need to illuminate the plants, then in this situation you can get by with fairly cheap fluorescent lamps, almost not caring about their spectrum.
Lamps are installed above the plants about 20 centimeters from the top sheet. In the future, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of their movement (lamps or plants). I used to place the lights higher than normal and then "pull" the plants up to the lights using upside down pots. As soon as the plants grow, the pot-stand can be replaced with a smaller one or removed.
One more question: when you have already attached the lamps, how many hours a day do you need to light up? Tropical plants need 12-14 hours of daylight to fully develop. Then they will develop well and bloom. This means that you need to turn on the backlight a couple of hours before it gets bright outside, and turn it off a few hours after it gets dark.
With full artificial lighting of plants, the lighting spectrum must be taken into account. Ordinary lamps are not enough here. If your plants do not see daylight, then for them it is necessary to install lamps with a special spectrum - for plants and / or aquariums.
It is very convenient to use a timer-relay when supplementing or fully illuminating plants. The most convenient way is to have a two-mode one, that is, so that the relay allows you to provide plants with light both in the morning and in the evening.

Try to light up the plants, and you yourself will notice how much better they develop when they have enough light!

Okhapkin's jackdaw

Part 2. Mysterious lumens and suites.

This part will very briefly talk about the basic concepts faced by those flower growers who are trying to understand the huge variety of lamps for lighting plants.

Basic concepts

Lumens and lux are often confused. These values ​​are units of measurement of luminous flux and illumination, which must be distinguished.
The electrical power of a lamp is measured in watts. light flow("luminous power") - in lumens (lm). The more lumens, the more light the lamp gives. An analogy with a hose for watering plants - the more the tap is open, the "wetter" everything around will be.
The luminous flux characterizes the light source, and illumination- the surface on which the light falls. By analogy with a hose - you need to know how much water gets to one point or another. This will determine how long you need to water the plants in the garden.
Illumination is measured in lux (Lx). A light source with a luminous flux of 1 Lm, uniformly illuminating a surface of 1 sq.m, creates an illumination of 1 Lx on it.

Useful Rules

Illumination on a surface is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the lamp to the surface. If you moved the lamp, which hung above the plants at a height of half a meter, to a height of one meter from the plants, thus increasing the distance between them twice, then the illumination of the plants will decrease four times. This is something to keep in mind when you are designing a plant lighting system.
Illumination on a surface depends on the magnitude of the angle at which this surface is illuminated. For example: the sun on a summer afternoon, being high in the sky, creates illumination on the surface of the earth several times greater than the sun hanging low above the horizon on a winter day. If you use a projector-type lamp to illuminate plants, then try to keep the light directed perpendicular to the plants.

Spectrum and color

The color of the lamp emission is characterized color temperature(CCT - Correlated Color Temperature). This is based on the principle that if, for example, a piece of metal is heated, its color changes from red-orange to blue. The temperature of the heated metal, at which its color is closest to the color of the lamp, is called the color temperature of the lamp. It is measured in degrees Kelvin.
Another lamp parameter is color rendering index(CRI - color rendering index). This parameter shows how close the colors of the illuminated objects are to the true colors. This value has a value from zero to one hundred. For example, sodium lamps have low color rendering: all objects under them appear to be the same color. New models of fluorescent lamps have a high CRI. Try to use high CRI lights to make your plants look more attractive. These two parameters are usually indicated on the labeling of fluorescent lamps. For example, /735 - means a lamp with CRI=70-75, CCT=3500K - a warm white lamp, /960 - a lamp with CRI=90, CCT=6000K - a daylight lamp.

CCT(K)	Lamp	Colour
2000	Low pressure sodium lamp (used for street lighting), CRI<10	Orange - sunrise-sunset
2500	Uncoated high pressure sodium lamp (HPS), CRI=20-25	Yellow
3000-3500	Incandescent lamp, CRI=100, CCT=3000K Warm-white fluorescent lamp, CRI=70-80 Halogen incandescent lamp, CRI=100, CCT=3500K	White
4000-4500	Fluorescent lamp of cold color (cool-white), CRI=70-90 Metal halide lamp (metal-halide), CRI=70	cold white
5000	Coated mercury lamp, CRI=30-50	Light blue - midday sky
6000-6500	Fluorescent lamp daylight (daylight), CRI=70-90Metal halide lamp (metal-halide, DRI), CRI=70Mercury lamp (DRL) CRI=15	Sky on a cloudy day

As a result of the photosynthesis process that occurs in plants, light energy is converted into energy used by the plant. During photosynthesis, plants take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Light is absorbed by various pigments in the plant, mainly chlorophyll. This pigment absorbs light in the blue and red parts of the spectrum. In addition to photosynthesis, there are other processes in plants that are affected by light from different parts of the spectrum. By selecting the spectrum, alternating the duration of the light and dark periods, it is possible to accelerate or slow down the development of the plant, shorten the growing season, etc.
For example, pigments with a sensitivity peak in the red region of the spectrum are responsible for the development of the root system, fruit ripening, and flowering of plants. To do this, greenhouses use sodium lamps, in which most of the radiation falls on the red region of the spectrum. Pigments with an absorption peak in the blue region are responsible for leaf development, plant growth, etc. Plants grown with insufficient blue light (for example, under an incandescent lamp) are taller - they reach up to get more "blue light". The pigment, which is responsible for the orientation of the plant to light, is also sensitive to blue rays.
This leads to an important conclusion: a lamp designed to illuminate plants should contain both red and blue colors.
Many fluorescent lamp manufacturers offer lamps with a spectrum optimized for plants. They are better for plants than conventional fluorescents (used for indoor lighting). It makes sense to purchase such a lamp if you need to replace an old lamp: at the same power, a special lamp gives more light that is “useful” for plants. But if you're installing a new plant lighting system, then don't go after those specialized lights that are much more expensive than regular ones. Install a more powerful lamp with a high color rendering index (lamp marking - /9..). It will have all the necessary components in its spectrum, and it will give much more light than a special lamp.

Absorption spectrum of chlorophyll (horizontal - wavelength in nm)

Ouduff
www.TopTropicals.com

Part 3: plant lighting lamps

This part will look at the types of lamps used to illuminate plants.
Lamps for lighting plants are of two types - incandescent lamps, which have a spiral, and gas discharge lamps, where light is generated by an electrical discharge in a mixture of gases. Incandescent lamps can be plugged directly into a socket. Discharge lamps require special ballasts (also called ballast) - these lamps cannot be plugged in, despite the fact that some of them resemble incandescent lamps with their bases. Only new compact fluorescent lamps with built-in ballast can be screwed into the socket.

INCANDESCENT LAMPS
These lamps, in addition to conventional incandescent lamps that are screwed into a chandelier on the ceiling, include some other lamps:

- Halogen lamps, in which there is a mixture of gases inside the flask, which allows to increase the brightness and service life of the lamps. Do not confuse these lamps with gas discharge metal halide lamps, which are often referred to as metal halide lamps. The new lamps use a mixture of krypton and xenon gases, due to this the brightness of the glow of the spiral is even higher.

- Neodymium lamps, whose flasks are made of glass with an admixture of neodymium (Chromalux Neodym, Eurostar Neodymium). This glass absorbs the yellow-green part of the spectrum, and illuminated objects appear visually brighter. In fact, the lamp gives no more light than a conventional one.

Incandescent lamps should not be used to illuminate plants. They are not suitable for two reasons - there are no blue colors in their spectrum, and they have low light output (10-12 Lm / W). All incandescent lamps get very hot, so they should not be placed close to the plants - otherwise the plants will get burned. And placing these lamps at a distance of more than one meter from the plants gives them practically nothing. Therefore, in indoor floriculture, such lamps are used exclusively for heating air in greenhouses and greenhouses. Another use for an incandescent lamp is in conjunction with a fluorescent lamp, which has little red light in its spectrum. For example, the combination of a cold light lamp and an incandescent lamp has a fairly good spectrum. However, it is better to use a sodium lamp instead of an incandescent lamp. Recently, special lamps for illuminating plants have appeared on sale, for example, OSRAM Concentra Spot Natura with a built-in reflector. These lamps differ from the usual ones in price (about 80-100 rubles in Moscow for a lamp with a power of 75-100 W). But the principle of operation, and, consequently, the efficiency of these lamps is the same as that of conventional incandescent lamps.

FLUORESCENT LAMPS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE
Lamps of this type are known to everyone - they are standard light sources in rooms. Fluorescent lamps are more suitable for lighting plants than incandescent lamps. Of the "pluses" can be noted a high light output (50-70 Lm / W), low thermal radiation and a long service life. The disadvantage of such lamps is that their spectrum is not entirely effective for illuminating plants. However, if there is enough light, then the spectrum is not so important. For the operation of these lamps, luminaires with special control gear (ballast, ballast) are required. This equipment is of two types - electromagnetic (EMPRA - a choke with a starter) and electronic (electronic ballast, electronic ballast). The second is much better - the lamps do not flicker when turned on and work, the lamp life and the amount of light emitted by the lamp increase. Some electronic ballasts allow you to adjust the brightness of the lamps, for example, from an external light sensor. There is only one problem: if the simplest choke costs about 200 rubles in Moscow, then the prices for electronic ballasts start at 900 rubles, and adjustable electronic ballasts cost more than 2000 rubles without a control device, which costs another $70 to $90 (one such device can serve many lights).
The power of the lamp depends on its length. Longer lamps give more light. If possible, longer and more powerful lamps should be used, since they have a higher light output. In other words, 2x36W bulbs are better than 4x18W bulbs.
Lamps should be located no higher than half a meter from plants. The optimal use of fluorescent lamps is shelves with plants of approximately the same height. Lamps are mounted at a distance of up to 15 cm for light-loving plants, and at a distance of 15-50 cm for those who prefer partial shade. In this case, the backlight is mounted along the entire length of the shelf or rack.

FLUORESCENT LAMPS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSE
These lamps differ from general purpose lamps only in the coating on the glass envelope. Due to this, the spectrum of these lamps is close to the spectrum required by plants. In Moscow, you can find lamps from manufacturers such as OSRAM-Sylvania, Philips, GE, etc. Russian-made lamps with a spectrum optimized for plant illumination do not yet exist.
Prices for special lamps are at least twice as high as for general purpose lamps, but sometimes it pays off. As an example, the personal experience of one of the authors (A. Litovkin): “When the first winter crept up on my plants, I noticed that they began, if not withering, then they had clearly stopped developing. It was decided to highlight them: a lamp for two lamps (1200 mm) was purchased. cold white light.The plants perked up noticeably, but were in no hurry to grow.Then (about a month later) the general purpose lamps were replaced with OSRAM Fluora.And after that, the plants, as they say, "flooded".
If you are installing a lamp instead of an old one, then it makes sense to use a specialized lamp for plants, since at the same power such a lamp gives more "useful" light for plants. But when installing a new system, it is better to install more powerful conventional lamps (high power compact fluorescents are best), because they give more light, which is more important for plants than the spectrum.

COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMPS

These lamps come with or without a built-in ballast. In Moscow, lamps from the world's leading manufacturers and lamps of domestic production (MELZ) are presented, which are almost as good as their foreign counterparts in terms of characteristics, and at a much cheaper price.
Lamps with a built-in ballast differ from extended general purpose fluorescent lamps only in their smaller dimensions and ease of use - they can be screwed into a conventional cartridge. Unfortunately, such lamps are produced to replace incandescent lamps in indoor lighting, and their spectrum is similar to that of incandescent lamps, which is not optimal for plants.
These lamps are best used to illuminate several compact plants. To obtain a normal luminous flux, the power of the lamps must be at least 20 W (analogous to 100 W for an incandescent lamp), and the distance to the plants should not be more than 30-40 centimeters.
Currently on sale there are compact fluorescent lamps of high power - from 36 to 55 watts. These lamps are distinguished by increased light output (by 20%-30%) compared to conventional fluorescent lamps, long service life, excellent color rendering (CRI> 90) and a wide spectrum, which includes red and blue colors that plants need. Compactness allows you to effectively use the lamps together with a reflector, which is important. These lamps are the best choice for lighting plants with a low power of the lighting system (up to 200 W of total power). The disadvantage is the high cost and the need to use electronic ballast for high power lamps.

DISCHARGE LAMPS

Today, gas discharge lamps are the brightest light source. They are compact in size; their high luminous efficiency makes it possible to illuminate plants occupying a large area with a single lamp. Together with these lamps it is necessary to use special ballasts. It should be noted that it makes sense to use such lamps if you need a lot of light; with a total power of less than 200-300 W, the best solution is to use compact fluorescent lamps.
Three types of lamps are used to illuminate plants: mercury, sodium and metal halide, sometimes called metal halide.

MERCURY LAMPS

This is the most historically old type of all gas discharge lamps. There are uncoated lamps, which have a low color rendering index (under the light of these lamps everything looks dead blue), and newer lamps with a coating that improves spectral characteristics. The light output of these lamps is low. Some companies produce lamps for plants using mercury lamps, such as OSRAM Floraset. If you're designing a new lighting system, it's best to steer clear of mercury lamps.

HHIGH PRESSURE ATRIUM LAMPS

It is one of the most efficient light sources in terms of light output. The spectrum of these lamps affects mainly the pigments of plants in the red zone of the spectrum, which are responsible for root formation and flowering. Of what is offered for sale, the most preferable are the Reflux lamps of Svetotekhnika LLC of the DnaT series (see photo). These lamps are made with a built-in reflector, allow operation in luminaires without protective glass (unlike other sodium lamps), and have a very significant resource (12-20 thousand hours). Sodium lamps give a large amount of light, so a high power ceiling lamp (250 W and more) can illuminate a large area at once - the best solution for illuminating winter gardens and large collections of plants. True, in such cases it is recommended to alternate them with mercury or metal halide lamps to balance the emission spectrum.

METAL HALIDE LAMPS

These are the most perfect lamps for illuminating plants - high power, long service life, optimal radiation spectrum. Unfortunately, these lamps, especially those with an improved emission spectrum, are more expensive than other lamps. On sale there are new lamps with a ceramic burner manufactured by Philips (CDM), OSRAM (HCI) with an increased color rendering index (CRI = 80-95). The domestic industry produces lamps of the DRI series. The scope is the same as for high pressure sodium lamps.

Although the base of a metal halide lamp is similar to the base of an incandescent lamp, it requires a special socket.

Afterword
Instead of an afterword - what and for what is useful.
*If you need to do something cheaply in a hurry, then use incandescent lamps or a compact fluorescent lamp with a built-in ballast that can be screwed into a regular socket.
*Several closely spaced plants can be lit in different ways. A dozen small plants of about the same height (up to half a meter) are best illuminated with compact fluorescent lamps. For tall single plants, spotlights with discharge lamps up to 100 W can be recommended.
*If plants of approximately the same height are located on racks or on a windowsill, then use extended fluorescent lamps or, even better, high-wattage compact lamps. Be sure to use reflectors with fluorescent lamps - they will significantly increase the useful light output.
*If you have a large winter garden, then install ceiling lights with high-power discharge lamps (250 W and above).
Most of the lamps described can be purchased at electrical stores.

Summary table of plant lighting lamps

	incandescent lamp	Fluorescent Lamp	Compact fluorescent lamp	discharge lamp
Lamp cost	Less than $5, $10-15 specialized	$5 - regular, $10-20 - specialized	$5 - low power, for replacing incandescent lamps, $15-40 - lamps with a power of 35-90 W and specialized	Less than $20 - low wattage lamp $30-80 - medium wattage lamp, $50-150 - high wattage lamps
Ballast cost (PRA)		$5-10 - regular, $15-30 - electronic	Not needed for lamps that screw into a $20-30 socket - electronic, many high power lamps work only with electronic	$20-50 - regular $30 -100 - electronic, which may include adjustment of lamps, etc.
Lighting system cost		<$10 - самодельный рефлектор с патронами $15-40 - система с лампами и балластом	<$20 - самодельная $30-100 - purchased	$100-500 - complete system
Rated life	750 hours - lamp incandescent, Over 2000 hours - halogen	15-20 thousand hours	15-20 thousand hours	5-20 thousand hours
Real life under daily illumination		6 months	9-12 months	One to two years
Heat released	90 W at 1000 lm. Almost all of the lamp's energy is released as heat.	Small 10-15 W per 1000 lm. Due to the fact that the lamp is long, the heat generated is not concentrated in one place. For a powerful system, using a small fan from the computer will solve the problem of heating		There is very little heat - 5-10 W per 1000 Lm, the heat is concentrated in one place. When using powerful lamps, a cooling system is required
Power range of the lighting system	It makes sense to use small lamps for lighting and heating	Plants are not very large. Groups of plants on a shelf or rack	Large groups of plants with a total system power of up to 200-300 watts.	Large groups of plants and greenhouses - ceiling lighting

Part 4. Choosing a lighting system

In the previous three parts on plant lighting, we talked about the basic concepts and the different types of lamps. In this part, we will talk about the calculation of the power of lamps, the practical measurement of illumination and other important points related to this topic. You will learn which lighting system is better to choose for each specific situation, how many lamps are needed to illuminate a particular plant, how to measure the illumination at home, what reflectors are needed in lighting systems for.
Light is one of the most important factors for successful plant growth; they "make food" for themselves through photosynthesis. If the plant has little light, then it is weakened and either dies of "starvation" or becomes an easy prey for pests and diseases.

TO BE OR NOT TO BE?

So you've decided to install a new lighting system for your plants. First of all, answer two questions.
· What is your budget limit? If a small amount of money is allocated for the entire lighting system, which you "tear off" from the scholarship and you need to "keep within" it, then this article will not help you. The only advice is to buy what you can. Don't waste your time and energy searching. Unfortunately, a lighting system for plants or for an aquarium is not cheap. Sometimes a smarter alternative is to replace light-loving plants with shade-tolerant ones - it is better to have a well-groomed spathiphyllum that does not require much light than to lament over a half-dead gardenia, which is sorely lacking.
· Are you going to just turn around until spring, according to the principle "not to fat, to be alive"? Then just buy the simplest fluorescent lamp. If you want your plants to fully grow and even bloom under the lamps, then you need to spend energy and money on the lighting system. Especially if you grow plants that grow all year round under artificial lighting conditions.
If you have decided on the answers to these questions and decided to install a complete lighting system, then read on.

WHAT IS GOOD LIGHTING

Three main factors determine whether a lighting system is good or bad:
light intensity. Light should be enough for plants. Weak light cannot be replaced by long daylight hours. There is not much light in room conditions. It is quite difficult to achieve illumination, which happens on a bright sunny day (more than 100 thousand Lx).
Light duration. Different plants require different daylight hours. Many processes, such as flowering, are determined by the length of daylight hours (photoperiodism). Everyone has seen the red poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) sold at Christmas and New Year. This bush grows outside our south Florida window and every year in the winter, without any tricks on our part, "does it all by itself" - our climate gives it what it needs to form red bracts - long dark nights and bright sunny days.
Lighting quality. In previous articles, I touched on this issue, saying that the plant needs light in both the red and blue regions of the spectrum. As already mentioned, it is not necessary to use special fitolamps - if you use modern lamps with a wide spectrum (for example, compact fluorescent or metal halide), then your spectrum will be "correct".
In addition to these factors, there are certainly others that are important. The intensity of photosynthesis is limited by what the plant lacks at the moment: in low light it is light, and when there is a lot of light, then, for example, temperature, or carbon dioxide concentration, etc. When growing aquarium plants, it often happens that under strong light, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the water becomes a limiting factor, and stronger light does not increase the rate of photosynthesis.

HOW MUCH LIGHT DO PLANTS NEED

According to the requirements for light, plants can be divided into several groups. The numbers for each of the groups are quite approximate, since many plants can do well both in bright light and in the shade, adapting to the level of illumination. The same plant needs a different amount of light depending on whether it develops vegetatively, blooms or bears fruit. From an energetic point of view, flowering is a process that wastes a lot of energy. A plant needs to grow a flower and supply it with energy - despite the fact that the flower itself does not produce energy. And fruiting is an even more "wasteful" process. The more light, the more energy "from the light bulb" the plant can store for flowering, the more beautiful your hibiscus will be, the more flowers there will be on the jasmine bush.
Below are some plants that prefer certain light conditions; the level of illumination is expressed in lux (about lumens and lux has already been said earlier). Here I will only repeat that lux characterizes how "light" the plants are, and lumens characterize the lamps with which you illuminate these plants.

· Bright light. Plants that love bright light include those that grow in nature in an open area (most trees, palm trees, succulents, bougainvillea, gardenia, hibiscus, ixora, jasmine, plumeria, thunbergia, crotons, roses, etc.). These plants prefer a high level of illumination - at least 15-20 thousand lux, and some plants require 50 thousand or more lux for successful flowering. Most variegated plants require high light levels - otherwise the leaves may "return to a solid color".

Moderate light. Plants that love moderate light include "undergrowth" plants (bromeliads, begonias, ficus, philodendron, caladium, chlorophytum, brugmansia, brunfelsia, clerodendrum, crossandra, medinilla, pandorea, rutia, barleria, tibuhina, etc.). The desired level of illumination for them is 10-20 thousand lux.

Weak light. The concept of "shade-loving plants" is not entirely true. All plants love light, including the dracaena standing in the darkest corner. It's just that some plants can grow (rather, exist) in low light. If you are not chasing the growth rate, then they will do well in low light. Basically, these are plants of the lower tier (hamedorea, whitefeldia, anthurium, difenbachia, philodendron, spathiphyllum, echinanthus, etc.). They need from 5 to 10 thousand lux.
The light levels given are approximate and can serve as a starting point for choosing a lighting system. I emphasize once again that these figures are for the full growth and flowering of the plant, and not for "wintering", when you can get by with a lower level of illumination.

LIGHT MEASUREMENT

So now you know how much light your plant needs and want to check if it is getting all it needs. All theoretical calculations are good, but it is better to measure the real illumination where the plants are. If you have a light meter, then you are in luck (pictured). If there is no light meter, then do not despair. The exposure meter of the camera is the same luxmeter, but instead of illumination, it gives out shutter speed values, i.e. the amount of time to open the camera shutter. The lower the light, the longer the time. Everything is simple.
If you have an external light meter, then place it in the place where you measure the illumination, so that the photosensitive element is perpendicular to the direction of the light falling on the surface.

If you are using a camera, then lay a sheet of white matte paper (see picture on the right) perpendicular to the direction of the incident light (do not use glossy paper - it will give incorrect results). Choose a frame size so that the sheet fills the entire frame. It is not necessary to focus on it. Select film speed - 100 units (modern digital cameras allow you to "simulate" film speed). Use the shutter speed and aperture values ​​to determine the illumination. If you set the film sensitivity value to 200 units, then the tabular values ​​\u200b\u200bmust be halved, if the value is set to 50 units, then the values ​​\u200b\u200bare doubled. Moving to the next higher f-number also doubles the values. In this way, you can roughly estimate the level of illumination where your plants stand.

USING THE REFLECTOR

If you use a fluorescent lamp without a reflector, then you reduce the useful light by several times. As it is easy to understand - only the light that is directed down falls on the plants. Light that is directed upwards is useless. The light that blinds your eyes when you look at an open lamp is also useless. A good reflector directs the light that blinds the eyes down to the plants. The results of modeling a fluorescent lamp show that when using a reflector, the illumination in the center increases by almost three times, and the light spot on the surface becomes more concentrated - the lamp illuminates the plants, and not everything around. Most fixtures sold in home appliance stores do not have a reflector or have what is a shame to call a reflector. Special systems with reflectors for lighting plants or an aquarium are very expensive. On the other hand, making a reflector with your own hands is not difficult.

HOW TO MAKE A REFLECTOR FOR A FLUORESCENT LAMP

The shape of the reflector, especially made for one or two lamps, is not of fundamental importance. Any "good" form of reflector, in which the number of reflections is no more than one and the return of light to the lamp is minimal, will have approximately the same efficiency within 10-15%. The figure shows a cross section of the reflector. It can be seen that its height should be such that all rays above the boundary (ray 1 in the figure) are intercepted by the reflector - in this case, the lamp will not blind the eyes.
Given the direction of the reflected boundary ray (for example, down or at an angle), you can build a perpendicular to the reflector surface at the reflection point (point 1 in the figure), which bisects the angle between the incident and reflected beam - the law of reflection. The perpendicular is determined in the same way at the remaining points (point 2 in the figure).
To check, it is recommended to take a few more points - so that the situation depicted at point 3 does not work out, where the reflected beam does not go down. After that, you can either make a polygonal frame, or build a smooth curve and bend the reflector according to the template. You should not place the top of the reflector close to the lamp, as the rays will fall back into the lamp; while the lamp will heat up.
The reflector can be made from aluminum foil (for example, food), which has a fairly high reflection. You can also paint the surface of the reflector with white paint. At the same time, its efficiency will be practically the same as for a "mirror" reflector. Be sure to make holes on top of the reflector for ventilation.

DURATION AND QUALITY OF LIGHTING

The duration of lighting is usually 12-16 hours, depending on the type of plants. More precise data, as well as recommendations on photoperiodism (for example, on how to make the poinsettia mentioned above bloom) can be found in special literature. For most plants, the above figure is sufficient.
About the quality of lighting has already been said more than once. (picture from an old book) One of the illustrations is a photograph of plants grown under the illumination of a mercury lamp (at that time there were practically no other lamps) and an incandescent lamp. If you don't want long, skinny plants, then don't use incandescent or sodium lamps without additional illumination with blue-emitting fluorescent or HID lamps.
Among other things, the lamps should highlight the plants so that they are pleasant to look at. A sodium lamp in this sense is not the best lamp for plants (the photo shows the difference - how plants look under a sodium lamp compared to lighting them with a metal halide lamp).

LAMP POWER CALCULATION

We have come to the most important thing - how many lamps to take for lighting plants. Consider two lighting schemes: fluorescent lamps and a gas discharge lamp.
The number of fluorescent lamps can be determined by knowing the average level of illumination on the surface. It is necessary to find the luminous flux in lumens (by multiplying the illuminance in lux by the surface area in meters). Light loss is approximately 30% for a lamp hanging at a height of 30 cm from the plants, and 50% for a lamp at a distance of 60 cm from the plants. This is true if you use a reflector - without it, the losses increase several times. Having determined the luminous flux of the lamps, you can find their total power, knowing that fluorescent lamps give approximately 65 lm per watt of power.
For example, let's calculate how many lamps are needed to illuminate a shelf with plants measuring 0.5x1 m. The area of ​​the illuminated surface will be 0.5x1=0.5 sq.m. Let's say that we need to light plants that prefer moderate light (15000 Lx). It will be difficult to illuminate the entire surface of the shelf with such a level of illumination, so we will make an estimate based on the average illumination of 0.7x15000 = 11000 Lx. At the same time, plants that require more light will be placed on a shelf directly under the lamp, where the illumination is above average.
In total, 0.5x11000 = 5500 Lm is needed. Lamps at a height of 30 cm should give about one and a half times more light (losses are 30%), i.e. about 8250 lm. The total power of the lamps should be about 8250/65=125 W, i.e. two 55W compact fluorescent lamps with reflector provide just the right amount of light. If you want to install conventional 40W tubes, then you will need three or even four of them, since tubes placed close to each other begin to shield each other, and the efficiency of the lighting system drops. Try to use modern compact fluorescent lamps instead of conventional, mostly outdated, tubes. If you do not use a reflector, then in this scheme you will have to take three or four times as many lamps.

Calculation of the number of fluorescent lamps

1. Select the light level.

2. Required luminous flux on the surface: L=0.7 x A x B (length and width in meters)

3. Required luminous flux of lamps, taking into account losses (with a reflector): Lamp=L x C (C=1.5 for a lamp at a height of 30 cm and C=2 for a lamp at a height of 60 cm)

4.Total lamp power: Power=Lamp/65

For gas discharge lamps, the calculation is similar. A special lamp with a 250 W sodium lamp provides an average illumination level of 15,000 lux on a site measuring 1 sq.m.

If the lighting parameters of the lamp are known, then it is quite simple to calculate the illumination. For example, from the figure on the left you can see that the lamp (OSRAM Floraset, 80W) illuminates a circle with a diameter of about a meter at a distance of just under half a meter from the lamp. The maximum illumination value is 4600 lx.
Illumination to the edge falls off quickly enough, so this lamp can only be used for plants that do not need a lot of light.
The figure on the right shows the luminous intensity curve (same luminaire as above). To find the illumination at a distance from the lamp, it is necessary to divide the value of the luminous intensity by the square of the distance. For example, at a distance of half a meter under the lamp, the illumination value will be 750/(0.5x0.5)=3000 Lx.
A very important point when lighting plants is that the lamps should not overheat: as the temperature rises, their light output drops sharply. The reflector must have holes for cooling the lamps. If many fluorescent lamps are used, then a fan should be used to cool them (for example, a computer one). Powerful discharge lamps usually have a built-in fan.

Conclusion

In this series of articles, various issues of plant lighting were considered. But many issues remained untouched, for example, the choice of the optimal electrical circuit for switching on lamps, which is an important point. For those who are interested in this issue, it is better to turn to the literature or to specialists.
The most rational scheme for designing a plant lighting system begins with determining the required level of illumination. Then you should evaluate the number of lamps and their type. And only after that - rush to the store to buy lamps to illuminate your green pets.

Uduff, Andrey Litovkin
www.TopTropicals.com

Any plant for successful growth and flowering requires the process of photosynthesis, that is, sufficient lighting. In winter, indoor plants need to be illuminated through a decrease in the intensity of the sun and a short daylight hours. There are species adapted to exist in a room environment without additional artificial lighting. But there are not so many shade-tolerant flowers. The standard option, suitable for most indoor plants, is the western and eastern sides.

For the most part, such an arrangement, even on the windowsill, does not require direct sunlight, especially at lunchtime, and at the same time sufficient lighting during the winter dormant period. But some of the flowers bloom on New Year's Eve, without a pronounced dormant period.

It is for this very reason that people buy such varieties, perhaps to fill in the gaps in the winter, when everything around is gray and snow is everywhere.

With insufficient lighting, your pets lose color, fade, stretch, there is no flowering. For successful flowering of certain varieties, it is necessary during the dormant period to be kept at low temperatures, but with plenty of light. Often the lack of lighting does not depend on the intensity, but the mandatory presence of 10-12 hours a day of daylight.

For artificial illumination of plants, lamps of various designs are installed. We will discuss this in detail in this article.

How to determine the sufficient level of lighting?

The amount of luminous flux and lighting is measured by special devices in the units of "lumens" (Lm) and "lux" (Lx), this is something similar by analogy with the power of a light bulb, measured in watts. That is, the light source (lamp brightness) is measured in "lumens", and the intensity of the illuminated surface (in our case, plants) in "lux".

The more watts, the more lumens and the more intense the lamp shines. Most people confuse these two quantities and cannot figure it out when buying a product.

There are norms for this or that type, but practically no one has and does not acquire this device. There is a way out, the plant itself will tell you if it needs daylight natural light, or should artificial light be installed?

Required amount of light:

• 1000-3000 lux - shade-tolerant plants, as a rule, with a pronounced dormant state in winter.
• Up to 5000 Lx - enough natural light. Feature - the pot is placed on the windowsill to obtain greater light intensity.
• 5000-1000 and above - indoor flowers need additional artificial lighting.

There is an automatic timer with a light indicator, capable of automatically turning on the light with the required intensity and also turning it off under certain lighting conditions (manually adjusted). This will significantly save you energy costs and eliminate additional worries.

All plants can be conditionally divided into groups based on their appearance and natural habitat.

Variegated species are always demanding on the intensity of sunlight and tolerate direct sunlight well.

Plain varieties with wide leaf plates are less demanding and can grow in semi-shade. The darker the color of the leaves, the less light will be needed for successful growth. Shoots are noticeably longer and thicker from light-loving plants.

Insufficient lighting will immediately affect the appearance. The leaves turn pale, change color, fade. Variegated species immediately change color, shoots stretch, bend, new leaves appear small. Sometimes the flower partially or completely throws off the foliage, the lower tier turns yellow with satisfactory watering.

In all plants, growth noticeably slows down, sometimes it stops altogether. The distance between summer and winter nodes is significantly different.

Before buying, you always need to know if the plant prefers the sun, or tolerate partial shade, whether you can provide enough light at home, based on your particular region. In our encyclopedia of indoor plants, on each page there is a brief description with a column - lighting. Selecting any plant in alphabetical order, you will always and quickly find the information you need.

The need for lighting in winter

For the middle and southern strip of the former SND, some plants can grow without installing artificial fluorescent lamps under certain conditions.

1. Location relative to the poles. Sometimes it is enough to rearrange the pot to the south side in winter.
2. Flowering and dormant period. Pronounced dormant period from November to March. At this time, the flower does not need intense light, as growth slows down and the natural period of the day is sufficient. And, on the contrary, for indoor pets blooming in winter, the growing season and active growth begin, the installation of lamps in the majority is mandatory. For example, an orchid growing on a windowsill in a warm climate in winter with an east-south exposure blooms on its own.
3. transitional types. For example, saintpaulia does not require mandatory illumination, subject to an average flowering intensity.
4. Variegated species for the most part need an increase in the portion of light, including ficus Benjamin, Aglaonema, Maranta.

The choice of lamps for lighting plants

There are two types of lamps:

1. pricking
2. gas-discharge (luminescent).

We can immediately say that the second type is more economical in terms of electricity consumption, which is very important for large rooms throughout the night.

Incandescent lamps operate from a conventional network without additional equipment, gas discharge lamps require a device to turn on. Among the second group, there are modern fluorescent lamps that allow you to use current directly from the network, but the price is several times higher than the same pricks. Let's take a closer look.

What is spectrum and how important is it?

Spectrum - the ability to emit a certain range of light waves. Unlike the human eye, plants do not absorb all rays, but only with a certain frequency of waves, with blue and red.

Orange-red light is used for seed germination and serves as a catalyst for shoot growth.

Blue-violet promotes leaf development.

Photosynthesis requires a red wavelength range. Under the influence, chlorophyll is produced, which promotes the metabolism of green mass.

Lack of blue color - leads to stretching of shoots and scarcity of leaves.

By choosing lamps with a certain spectrum, you can significantly accelerate the growth and flowering of your pets.

Sometimes several varieties of lamps are combined together for a full spectrum.

Incandescent lamps

This type has a tungsten coil inside, placed in a vacuum and when current flows through it, it glows. These are ordinary lamps that everyone has in their home.

Such lamps are divided into several types: halogen and neodymium.

• Halogen - inside, along with the piercing spirals, there is gas to increase the service life and brightness.
• Neodymium - the surface of the bulb is made of special glass capable of holding part of the spectrum. Yellow and green light is absorbed, thereby increasing the brightness. The glass contains neodymium. But in fact, the number of lumens (light output) has not increased.

There are a number of disadvantages for which incandescent lamps are not suitable as additional lighting for plants.

• Incomplete spectrum, lack of blue and other colors.
• Compared to the power consumption, the light output is low, i.e. the efficiency is very low (65 lm/100 W).
• Through strong heating, can not be placed near the flowers, otherwise burns will appear.
• Uneven lighting compared to linear discharge lamps, you will need several pieces, and this is additional power.
• Service life is not great.

In floriculture, splitting lamps are used to heat mini greenhouses and greenhouses, or in conjunction with fluorescent lamps, in the spectrum of which there is very little red. They serve as a complement to the entire spectrum.

Lamps of this type may differ in shape, power, spectrum.

Criterias of choice :

• Efficiency - the amount of light output per power used.
• The full spectrum for plants is extremely important. Determined by the color rendering index Ra. The completeness of the spectrum significantly affects the growth of the flower. For plants, Ra should be at least 80 units.
• flow stability.
• Lamp reliability and long service life.

The shape of the lamp is also important. For several pots at the same time, linear lamps are suitable. For a small area, spiral or arcuate shapes are used.

Lamps with a three-lane phosphor (the inner part of the walls are covered with 3 layers) have the highest light output and an optimal spectrum.

A conventional fluorescent lamp has a high efficiency (60 lm / W) and does not heat up, which makes it possible to install directly above the plant.

Usually a luminaire is sold complete with a trigger mechanism, in the future, when replacing, only a combustible element is bought.

The trigger mechanism is of two types: electromagnetic (throttle) and electronic. The second one is more reliable and stable, the flickering of the lamp is not visible. In the kit you can set the brightness adjustment. The light source is placed at a height of 30-50 cm, strictly above the plants.

Fluorescent lamps designed for flowers

There are specially lamps with the maximum transmitted spectrum for lighting indoor plants. But the price can be ten times higher than usual. The flask is covered with a special coating. Produce such lamps OSRAM-Sylvania, Philips, GE.

The benefits are much higher and will pay off over time.

Lamps with built-in balance

There are modern small lamps with a built-in balance. At a price much cheaper, and in terms of quality and published spectrum, they are not inferior to foreign righteous manufacturers. They are produced with a standard base and are suitable for a conventional household network, but the spectrum, unlike tubular fluorescent ones, is slightly different, red and green are partially absent. For several pots, clarification is set at a distance of 30 cm.

There are also modern compact fluorescent lamps, one or two tubular with a plurality of arrangement, they are distinguished by high light output and power compared to small dimensions, as well as an excellent spectrum.

LED lamps are now on the market. This is the most ideal option in terms of energy savings, light output (4-6 times higher than fluorescent), durability and heating (LEDs do not heat up). There are LED lamps with different emission spectrum. One downside is that they are still very expensive.

As a replacement for fluorescent lamps, an alternative is gas discharge lamps. There are three types: mercury, high pressure sodium, and metal halide. Often they are used to illuminate a large number of plants, the minimum power is 300 watts.

Discharge lamps have the highest luminous efficiency at small sizes and are able to cover a large area.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

• Metal halide. The most suitable of this line with an acceptable spectrum and high light output. The resource is several times higher than the above lamps. They are produced by foreign manufacturers Philips (CDM), OSRAM (HCI), but the price is much more expensive than competitors. The domestic product is produced under the DRI brand. The lamp requires a special cartridge.
• High pressure sodium. Excellent light output per watt, superior to red in the spectrum, which promotes the formation of flowers and the development of the root system. The lamps have a reflector, which further increases the illumination. From domestic manufacturers: "Lighting". Resource up to 20,000 hours. Used for greenhouses and winter gardens with a power of 300, 500 watts and above. Among the shortcomings: There is no blue color in the spectrum, it is necessary to additionally alternate with other species.
• Mercury - the main advantage, a large amount of blue. The oldest and most inefficient lamps from the gas discharge line. Low light transmission. Produced by foreign manufacturers, OSRAM Floraset. An important drawback: when broken, mercury vapor enters the air. This is an outdated option for highlighting plants.

Perhaps this is all you need to know about the lamps, their design, the operating range of the spectrum, for the independent manufacture of artificial lighting for your plants.

Be sure to properly alternate day and night for the successful growth and flowering of your pets.

The issue of landscaping an apartment is not difficult in itself. There are more than 1000 types of indoor plants that are on sale. On this occasion, many books, articles in magazines, instructions, etc. have been published. But almost all of them consider finding indoor plants in natural light, even if in partial shade.

Why do plants need good lighting?

Lighting is required for plants for photosynthesis, after which special substances appear that are for them energy and base material. First of all, the formation of this substance will depend on the volume and quality of the light energy that the leaves absorb. But chlorophyll, which directly transforms the light flux into organic compounds, has pronounced absorption maxima in the blue and red range of the spectrum. At the same time, it rather weakly absorbs the yellow and orange spectrum and does not absorb infrared and green rays at all.

In addition to chlorophyll, pigments such as carotenoids take part in light absorption. As a rule, they are invisible in the leaves due to the presence of chlorophyll, but in the autumn, when it is destroyed, carotenoids give the foliage an orange and yellow color. In the process of photosynthesis, they are of no small importance, as they absorb light rays in the blue and violet spectrum, these colors prevail on cloudy days.

What does a houseplant need?

The need of plants for lighting largely depends on the temperature in the room, the warmer the room, the more light the plant needs. Thus, plants in winter have the worst of all in a poorly heated and poorly illuminated room.

Light mode. The duration of daylight hours plays an important role in the life of any plants. For equatorial flowers, who are accustomed to almost constant natural light at 12 o'clock, our geographical location will most likely not like our geographical location, when the minimum daylight hours last until 7 o'clock, and the maximum is more than 15 o'clock.

Illumination and artificial lighting for plants

First, let's determine when plant lighting required:

• During the maintenance of plants in winter and autumn at a temperature of more than 22C in regions with very short daylight hours.
• When keeping plants on window sills with direct sunlight less than 3.5 hours.
• During the maintenance of plant seedlings in winter and autumn in regions where cloudy weather prevails.

In other cases, the installation of additional lighting is simply not justified and, to some extent, will be a waste of money and effort.

During supplementary lighting of plants, it is necessary take into account such factors:

Artificial lighting for indoor plants

It is forbidden to use classic incandescent lamps alone: ​​there is no violet and blue color in their spectrum, and infrared irradiation creates stretching of flowers, their strong heating, drying of leaves and waste of electricity.

Such special incandescent bulbs in neodymium bulbs advertised today do not show significant improvement. These include Paulmann Phyto-lamps, OSRAM lamps, etc. Despite their high illumination due to reflective coating and a small angle of light, their spectral indices practically do not differ from simple incandescent lamps.

A slightly better effect can be achieved while using halogen bulbs. But, despite the more positive composition of the spectrum and increased light output, this type of lamp is hardly optimal, since the filament creates a large release of thermal energy.

You can maintain an attractive appearance of flowers and grow seedlings with the help of lighting. white fluorescent lamps, they create cold light (their spectrum is as close as possible to the solar spectrum). Since these lamps are not very powerful, several of them are installed simultaneously in special reflectors that enhance the flow of light and do not allow flickering lighting to enter the room.

As a rule, their shortcomings come down to an increased diffuseness of the light flux (sufficient light requires many lamps) and the quality of the generated lighting. Fluorescent lamps have a lot of blue in their spectrum, so they need to be installed only in combination with the rest.

The purpose of fluorescent lamps is to illuminate the shelves with flowers, to illuminate the plants on the window. It is almost impossible to fully grow flowers that are very demanding on lighting under fluorescent bulbs.

Phyto-luminescent lamps in the form of tubes are actually efficient in the process of photosynthesis, economical, create a uniform light on the surface and heat up slightly during operation, this makes it possible to install them close to the flowers. But their pinkish backlight is unnatural for people, irritates the mucous membranes and significantly changes the visual perception of the decorativeness of flowers.

Phyto-lamps with several light peaks in the blue and red spectrum, specially made for flowers, they are also great for young shoots and growing seedlings. You can choose phytolamps with more natural lighting, but the efficiency of these lamps is slightly lower, due to radiation in the unused spectrum by plants - green, which, at the same time, can be compensated by adding powerful lamps.

sodium, metal halide and mercury lamps- These are the so-called high-pressure gas-discharge bulbs. Their main purpose is to create a powerful light flux. So, they are best suited for illuminating greenhouses, winter gardens, large-sized single flowers, plants that are very demanding on light. They talk about the possibility of installing these lamps in apartments with caution - such lamps are quite expensive, use a large amount of electricity and heat up significantly, many operate in the ultraviolet spectrum, which is dangerous for vision.

Height and installation options for lamps above indoor flowers

The best location of the lamps is achieved with the condition that the lighting will fall on the flowers from above.

Highly high standing lamps in order to illuminate the maximum number of plants, as a result, nothing is highlighted, since the illumination decreases in proportion to the distance, for example, by setting the lighting height from 25 cm to a meter, the illumination will decrease by 30 times. The optimal height for light-loving flowers is the position of the lamp (fluorescent) approximately 17-22 cm.

The most economical option is to make the direction of the light flow perpendicular to the plant, that is, install the lamp directly above the flowers, and equip the light source with a reflector. You can buy ready-made reflectors in aquarium stores. With the help of a reflector, you can remove the feeling of discomfort if the light falls into the eyes, but the most important thing is to direct almost without loss the main part of the lighting flow, which is often wasted. Phyto-lamps have a full-fledged spectrum of rays required only by colors and therefore create light that irritates human vision. It is for this reason that phyto-lamps especially need reflectors.

It is advisable to hang a light bulb over the flowers: when illuminated from the side, the plants grow, stretching towards the light source. If the flowers are illuminated only by artificial lighting, then the lamps need to work at least 12 hours daily. If artificial light is used as an additional one, for example, in winter, then 4-6 hours are enough.

It is best to make the height of the lamps adjustable, so that if burns are found on the flowers, you can change the height of the lamps. Tall stems and a pale color indicate that the light source is located quite high. The smallest distance of a flower to an incandescent bulb is 35cm, to a fluorescent bulb 7cm, and a sodium bulb is half a meter.

How to calculate the number of fluorescent lamps?

Backlight power calculation and the choice of the type of light bulbs will completely depend on the need for indoor flowers in lighting. All flowers according to the degree of need for illumination can be divided into:

• shade-tolerant;
• loving moderate illumination - tropical plants;
• light-loving - plants whose birthplace is large sunny spaces.

Lighting power must be selected in proportion: per 1 dm. sq. flower area should be:

• more than 2.5 W for light-loving;
• 1.5-2.5 W - for those who love moderate illumination;
• 0.50-1.5 W - for shade-tolerant.

According to the degree of illumination, 1 watt of power of a fluorescent bulb creates 70 lm, an incandescent bulb - 4 times less. Given this value, you can calculate the number and power of light bulbs for flowers. For example, the size of the window sill where the plants are located is 100 dm. sq. Thus, the following total lamp power will be needed:

• 2.5W x 100dm. sq. = 250W.

This area will require approximately 2-3 light bulbs with a power of 70 W. It must be said that this calculation is approximate and is considered only a guideline in choosing their number. It is desirable to use powerful and oblong lamps, as they have a high light output. In other words, two 34W lamps are better than four 17W lamps.

Summing up, it must be said that the duration of artificial lighting will depend directly on natural lighting. As a rule, this is a couple of hours in the morning and a few at night. That is, the lamps will be on in the morning, until the time when you need to go to work, and in the evening until the time before bedtime.

But, in general, this time must be about 5-7 hours. In cloudy weather up to 10 hours. If the day is sunny, 4 hours is enough. In addition, it has been proven that the backlight does not show a positive effect when it is irregular, because turning on the lamps only “when you remember”, you will only harm indoor flowers, knocking down their biorhythms.

Before you decide on the brand of a lamp for indoor plants, you need to find out what properties determine the quality and suitability of its use. Not in all cases, a promoted company is a guarantee that the device will last a long time. In order not to be mistaken, you should know all the available methods of determination and selection criteria. Each option has its pros and cons, so a person independently determines a particular device.

Why is additional lighting needed?

Getting enough solar energy is very important for indoor plants, because it starts photosynthesis processes that become impossible in complete darkness. Some specimens need a bright dawn, others need a muted, diffused one, and others prefer shady growing conditions.

Light hunger is fraught for indoor plantings with weakening, excessive susceptibility to various pests and diseases.

Radiation spectrum

Red, with an exposure length of 600 to 720 N. m., and orange, reaching from 595 to 620 n. m., are the most important ranges for living creatures. They act as suppliers, conductors of energy, contributing to the uninterrupted process of photosynthesis. They also affect the rate of growth. And not always positive. With an excess of this radiation, flowering slows down or stops.

Blue, violet scales, having a range from 380 to 490 N. m., have an impact on the degree of growth. Involved in protein production. Under the influence of these rays, flowering begins much earlier than under the condition of a normal daylight hours.

Ultraviolet, located within the spectrum from 315 to 380 n. m., have a negative effect on increasing the length of the stem. They also regulate the synthesis and transport of vitamins and minerals. This light spectrum has another subtype of rays - in the range from 280 to 315 nm. m. They play an important role in the formation of frost resistance of greenery.

Green waves (from 490 to 565 nm) and orange (from 565 to 595 nm) do not have a significant effect on plants.

It is recommended to understand the terminology. The power of electrical units is measured in watts, and the flow is measured in lumens. The higher the value of the last indicator, the more light the device releases. The percentage is displayed in lux. This parameter indicates options for the elapsed time required to provide insight to the desired area. It depends on the angle at which the lamp is placed. Here you can draw a parallel with the sun - when it is near the zenith, the level of energy released by it is maximum.

Lamp action

Under the influence of ultraviolet inside the foliage, carbon dioxide, water absorbed from the atmosphere is processed into glucose, oxygen, required for full growth, health, and timely development of flowers. With insufficient nutrition, they begin to fade, fade, turn yellow. The stems bend in the direction of the sun's rays, the leaf plates twist, fall off. Flowering at home will gradually slow down or not at all.

Before placing additional devices, you need to understand whether there really is such a need. The main criteria for which backlighting is needed are the following:

• Plantings are kept at a temperature of +22 degrees Celsius and above in the conditions of a short day, characteristic of the winter period.
• In case of sun exposure less than 3.5 hours.
• Under cloudy conditions.

In all other cases, the use of an additional source is not recommended, because excessive illumination can harm the culture, knocking down its natural rhythm, biological clock.

If artificial lighting is necessary, it is important to consider the following features:

• Seedlings require constant light. After the seeds germinate, their day is up to 24 hours. Then, as you grow up, it gradually decreases to 15, and then to 11-12.
• For fully grown individuals, this parameter should not exceed 15 hours. If this rule is not observed, the processes of formation of buds and inflorescences are violated, because the period of sleep and night is extremely important for plants.
• For full flowering, plantings require a rest of at least 9 hours. It is desirable that at the same time the ambient temperature be reduced, and the level of illumination be muffled, because all the chemical processes responsible for the formation of kidneys occur in pitch darkness.
• The choice of light level for winter directly depends on the temperature at which the flowers are kept. If it is 10 degrees or lower, the use of artificial sources is not required.
• Considering that direct sunlight naturally falls from above, additional devices inside greenhouses, rooms, greenhouses should be placed according to the same principle. Otherwise, individuals will be forced to expend excess energy on turning stems and foliage.

Which device do you prefer?

To ensure the desired level of illumination, it is necessary to correctly select a special source that will help prevent all of the above consequences. The range of lighting fixtures on the market is very wide, which allows you to find the perfect option in all respects:

They need to be attached to an aluminum radiator plate using thermal paste. By soldering, the diodes are connected in turn, then mounted to the driver. It is recommended to install a small fan on the back side.

Lighting devices that have red, blue tones within the spectral range are divided into several types.

Incandescent lamps powered by tungsten filament are not the best option, as they produce too little light energy, they heat up excessively, which leads to negative consequences, for example, thermal burns. Another disadvantage is the overestimated percentage of red rays and the lack of blue, which is necessary for photosynthesis inside the foliage. Despite the low cost, this type consumes a lot of electricity, which contributes to unnecessary costs later.

Fluorescent lamps

Widespread, popular among the field of artificial lighting for plants. There are several varieties: general purpose, delivering power up to 70 watts. This skin is perfect for short-term use. The main characteristic is the low emission spectrum. Devices for special purposes are slightly weaker - from 35 to 50 watts.

They are considered the most acceptable option for lighting both on an ongoing basis and on a periodic basis. The color spectrum of these lamps is found in accordance with the permissible limits. The compact look gives up to 20 watts.

Suitable for occasional lighting. Fluorescent fixtures, unlike the previous type, practically do not heat up, so they are much safer to place above plants. Another indisputable advantage is their low level of energy consumption.

When thinking between a daylight device and a specialized phytolamp, preference should be given to the second option. This view is covered with glass, providing the desired radiation spectrum, closest to natural sunlight. It is worth noting that directed flows increase efficiency by 15-25%.

Energy-saving lamps

The principle of operation is similar to fluorescent, but they are more compact, convenient to use. The amount of energy expended is much lower than that of the previous options. Their service life is much higher - up to 15 thousand hours.

The blue spectral emitted by this type of lamp will be the best option for non-flowering plants. There are several types: cold - increases the speed of germination of greenery, accelerates production during the vegetative period, warm is suitable for the active phase of inflorescence formation, daytime is used at any time.

Sodium lamps

They are the most efficient and economical. The average service life varies within 20 thousand hours of continuous use. One lamp will be enough to illuminate an area up to 1.5 m in size. The main colors in the spectral range are orange, red, blue. This combination allows you to significantly speed up the process of growth and the appearance of inflorescences.

Despite these advantages, sodium lighting devices have several drawbacks, including high cost and large dimensions. Most often used in winter and botanical gardens, greenhouses. An important point is their disposal, since the device contains mercury, sodium, which require compliance with safety rules.

LED lamp

It is the most modern type of artificial lighting. A more common name is LED. This type has a number of advantages, of which the most important are low power consumption, long service life, providing up to 50,000 hours of uninterrupted operation. A variety of shapes, including adhesive tapes, and sizes will allow you to choose the best option for your needs.

They are environmentally friendly, safe for both plants and the human body. The radiation spectrum includes exclusively red, blue, orange waves, which have a beneficial effect on the development and growth of flowers. It is necessary to calculate the lighting power according to the following principle - for 1 sq. m area will require a minimum of 400 watts.

Another advantage of led-lamps is that they practically do not emit heat, and this allows them to be placed at a distance of close proximity to the illuminated object. The view provides the plantations with the maximum level of comfort, the correct range of rays. The color of the lighting directly depends on the crystal installed inside, which is a conductor of electric current. It is possible to adjust the power and intensity.

This is done by reducing or increasing the current. Several crystals are included inside the design, reproducing certain gamuts of radiation, which makes it possible to influence flowers in different ways at different periods of their life.

Metal-halogen lamps

The most approximate emission spectrum to natural. Red rays have a fruitful effect on buds, inflorescences. The downside is their high cost. Induction devices approach the principle of exposure to luminescent ones, but the design is different. These lamps do not contain electrodes inside. This nuance allows you to significantly extend their service life up to 60 thousand hours or 20 years.

The brightness emitted by this species decreases slightly over time - up to a maximum of 5%. A significant advantage is that they are not afraid of sudden voltage drops, do not blink during operation, without causing discomfort to the eyes.

During operation, they do not heat up, which allows you to place the element close enough to the illuminated colors. Induction luminaires can be used as a single source, due to the extremely close to the natural spectrum of radiation.

Relocatable, convertible and versatile products are distinguished by the fact that both a metal halide lamp and a similar high pressure sodium lamp can be placed inside. This species is widely distributed among flower growers.

It allows you to adjust the way the impact on plants at different cycles of their maturation. During the vegetative period, a halogen lamp is installed, then, when the fruits begin to form, you need to exchange it for sodium or mercury. To switch, you only need to change the flask, set the appropriate mode.

Light fixture installation

Having decided on the type, you should understand the options for its placement to get the maximum benefit. It is important to remember: increasing the distance from the light source to the plant, the intensity of its impact is significantly reduced.

In case of manifestation of non-specific external defects on the foliage or stems, the appearance of yellow spots, dryness, the lamp should be immediately removed from the culture, otherwise it may die. If the foliage fades, thins, and the stems are excessively stretched upwards, it means that not enough rays reach them.

In this case, it is recommended to hang the lamps closer. Placing lighting units on the side will not bring good results, as the plant will be significantly curved. The best option is hanging, ceiling light devices.

Experienced gardeners have in their arsenal several tricks and tricks that can significantly extend daylight hours in a natural way. To do this, they place small mirrors on the windows that reflect the sun's rays in the right direction.

To achieve correct results, it is imperative to take into account the biological times of the plants. Artificial light sources are allowed to be turned on for no more than 20-22 hours. It is important to maintain a balance and alternation of day and night. Round-the-clock illumination will not benefit green spaces, knocking down their natural rhythm. Chaotic connection-disconnection adversely affects the health of flowers. To ensure the correct development of seedlings in an apartment, a minimum of 8 thousand lux is required.

The lumen parameter is indicated on the packaging of the lamps. To calculate, you should arm yourself with the formula: illumination is equal to the luminous flux divided by the surface area. Or remember the average value: for a territory measuring 1 sq. m, for a full life you need about 400 W or 5500 lumens. They also take into account the fact that by installing the lighting unit at a level of 30 cm above the object, the force of the rays is reduced by 30%.

Features and the right amount of lighting

It is important to take into account the variety, because there are both light-loving plants and those that choose shady living conditions. The difference in the need for solar energy between the first and second is 30-40%. The most optimal option for home use, flower growers call a fluorescent lamp for indoor crops, which has a glow temperature of 6400 - 6500 K. Lighting devices of 18 and 36 W are considered the most versatile and common. They are affordable and easy to find.

The best way would be to install the light bulb on the windowsill, for example, attached to height-adjustable tripods. So, in case of overheating or insufficient lighting, you can quickly adjust this parameter. A special timer-relay will allow you to create the optimal order of day and night for green pets thanks to its automatic operation. It will light up, turn off at the same frequency, allowing the plants to be in a habitat close to natural.