Daylily planting and care in the open field in autumn. Daylily care outdoors When daylilies bloom after planting

Daylily is native to East Asia. This plant has been known to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about the daylily in 1753. The Swedish researcher Carl Linnaeus named the plant "Hemerokallis", combining two Greek words: "hemera" (day, day) and "callos" (beauty). This name meant that the beauty of the plant lives only one day.

Not only cultivars of daylily are famous for their amazing beauty, but also "savages" that grow in the wild. Daylily flowers are extremely unpretentious, so much so that even flower growers themselves call it a plant of a lazy gardener.

Thanks to the efforts of American and Australian breeders, the daylily has literally been at the "peak of fashion" in recent years. Despite the fact that the new plant species turned out to be more "capricious", their incredible beauty compensates for the time and effort spent.

Did you know? The great popularity of the daylily among gardeners around the world has contributed to the breeding of hybrid varieties. This happened in the first half of the 20th century thanks to the efforts of the famous American botanist Earl Stout.

When to plant daylilies

Daylilies are very demanding plants, their planting and care in the open field are of interest to both beginners and experienced gardeners.

The main advantage of the daylily is the time of its planting in the ground. It is very long and covers the period from early spring to late autumn. The choice of the most favorable time for planting a daylily directly depends on the climatic zone, and this fact should not be overlooked.

If your latitudes are distinguished by the early and rapid onset of winter, then the daylily, which was planted in the fall, may not have time to take root before the first frost and simply die. On average, this plant takes a month for reliable rooting. If you stop at garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in the regions far from the south, the daylily planted by you will have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

Important! According to experienced gardeners, the most suitable time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is the last months of spring and summer - May and August.

Planting in autumn

How to plant a daylily in the autumn? Planting a daylily is no different from planting any other plant. To do this, you need to dig a hole 30 cm deep. Then carefully place the roots of the plant in it and bury it with earth to the root neck, after which be sure to water it.

When planting in the fall, do not forget to cover the daylily with straw or hill it with earth along with leaf humus. This will reliably protect the plant from cold weather and excessive moisture getting into the roots.

Planting in the spring

Daylilies can be planted at the very beginning of spring, the main thing is that the soil is warm enough and frost does not occur. Of course, experienced gardeners know how to plant daylilies in the spring, but what about newbies?

The first thing to start with is the preparation of the landing pit. Assume that the plant will stay in this place for at least 5 years, during which it will continuously grow and increase in size. The daylily should not be cramped at the place of its landing. If the soil in your area is saturated with useful substances, then the hole for the daylily should be of such a size that the roots of the plant can easily fit in it. If the soil is dry and heavy, then the pit should be 2 times larger, and leaf humus or compost mixed with sand should be laid on its bottom. You do not know how to save the daylily until planting in the spring? Just wrap the cutting in newspaper, put it in the refrigerator, and it will keep perfectly until planting.

After the hole is prepared, form a small pyramid of soil at its bottom. Place a daylily seedling on top of it, and gently spread the roots down the sides of this pyramid. Sprinkle the hole with earth, at the same time lightly crush it with your hands and be sure to water it with water. After planting, the root neck of the plant should be in the ground at a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm, if you do not follow this rule, then the daylily will not bloom well. Also remember that the distance between planted daylilies should be at least one meter.

Selecting a landing site

Daylily is a plant that loves sunny and well-lit places. You can break up an entire flower bed or plant daylilies along the paths, thus creating a bright and colorful carpet of "gramophone flowers". The peculiarity of the daylily is that the lighter the color of its petals, the more sunlight it can receive. All daylilies have a certain shade, and the leaves of a daylily planted in direct sunlight quickly turn white. Darker types of daylilies are best planted in light partial shade, because due to the bright sun, all the saturated colors of the petals will quickly fade and become less beautiful and attractive.

Lighting and temperature

As mentioned above, daylilies love lit places, but planting in direct sunlight should be avoided.

The growing season of the daylily begins quite early. This happens when the snow melts and the frost ends, when the temperature does not drop below 0°C at night. Usually the awakening of daylilies begins in mid-April. In autumn, night temperatures can drop to -3°C, which causes daylily leaves to wither. With early autumn frosts, the leaves of the flowers of the plant do not even have time to turn yellow and immediately wither. If the summer is cold, then the daylily blooms noticeably worse. The buds of the plant become small and do not open fully, or may not open at all, simply withering and falling off. High summer temperatures significantly shorten the flowering time of the daylily and burn the ends of its leaves.

What kind of soil does the daylily like?

The composition of the soil in which the daylily is grown does not play a big role for this crop. The plant is quite enough ordinary garden soil. If such soil is not too nutritious, then it can be easily fertilized with compost or various mineral compositions. As a rule, such compositions are sold in any flower or garden store. If the soil is too heavy and dense, then it can be slightly diluted with ordinary sand so that excessive moisture does not stagnate in it. The daylily can also grow in sand, but in this case it requires more frequent watering, since the water in such soil evaporates rather quickly.

How to plant a flower

Before you start planting a daylily, it must be lowered for a while into water with diluted growth stimulants. As such stimulants, drugs such as Zircon, Epin, Gumat, etc. are suitable.

Since the daylily is a perennial crop, the place for planting it should be selected and prepared with great care. This plant needs a fairly large amount of space in the flower bed. So, the hole for planting a daylily should be at least 30 cm deep. Also, it is necessary to first pour a peat-humus mixture into this hole, and then add a small amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. After that, the daylily is carefully immersed in the hole. The plant should be planted to the level of its root collar. The entire remaining space of the hole should be sprinkled with garden soil, and then it must be compacted and watered thoroughly.

Important! If moisture is quickly absorbed, then this indicates that the soil was not compacted enough. In this case, simply add dry soil and compact the soil well.

How to water a daylily in a flower bed

Daylily is a plant that requires high-quality watering. With a lack of moisture, its flowering worsens significantly, and the buds become dull and small.

Particularly carefully watering rules should be observed during the growing season. The rate of moisture directly depends on the soil in which the daylily grows. In order for the daylily not to experience a moisture deficit, it is necessary to regularly monitor the soil around the stems - it should not dry out. For irrigation, it is preferable to use a large amount of water to moisten the soil to a depth of half a meter.

Daylilies need to be watered at least once a week. If the daylily grows in light sandy soil, then it should be watered more often, and it is also advisable to mulch the soil around the plant to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Watering is best done in the evening, but before dark. It is not recommended to pour water directly on the buds and leaves of the plant, as this can stain them. Water the plant at the very root, using an ordinary garden watering can with a tip in the form of a wide nozzle - so the stream of water will not wash the earth out from under the daylily root.

Top dressing and fertilizer daylily

Fertilizer and top dressing of the daylily is carried out after studying the composition of the soil, after which fertilizer is selected.

The main rule is that any fertilizers are applied no earlier than 2 weeks after the rooting of the plant. A young plant will need 2-3 top dressings per season, an older (5-6 years old) and abundantly flowering daylily needs 4-5 top dressings.

• In early spring, the daylily is fed with a full range of mineral fertilizers. The most common is NPK 16:16:16 (diluted in proportion: 1 tablespoon of granules per 10 liters of water).
• In April and May, in order to increase the intensity of growth, complex fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen (diammonium phosphate, ammophos, nitroammophosphate) are added.
• In summer, when the daylily blooms, it can be fed with organic matter. For this, a solution of mullein, chicken manure or fermented grass is suitable.
• At the end of flowering (beginning of autumn), fertilizer is carried out with sulfate with ash, or nitroammophos - it depends on the climate. Such top dressing has a positive effect on increasing the size of the flowers and their number in the new season.

How to properly propagate a plant

Daylily is a fairly unpretentious plant that can grow in one place without a transplant for 12-15 years. But this is undesirable, because after a certain time the flowers will become noticeably smaller, and the bush will take on a somewhat neglected look. And an old, overgrown bush after its transplantation can get sick and die. To avoid such problems, it is worth starting division and transplanting once every 5-6 years. Daylily can be propagated using several basic methods, each of which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Did you know? The Germans jokingly say that the daylily is a flower of intelligent lazy people, that is, gardeners who prefer beautiful plants that do not require long work to grow them.

seed way

Reproduction of daylilies by seeds is a fairly common method among gardeners. Daylily seeds can quickly lose their germination capacity, which is why freshly harvested seeds are best planted in the autumn. The sowing process is very simple and does not require any special tools and skills. Take the seeds and sow them in the prepared soil (fertilized and dug up), deepening them to a depth of 2 cm. If, for some reason, you did not have time for the autumn sowing, then it can be transferred to the spring, stratification of seeds (imitation of natural conditions for their awakening).

Vegetative methods

As already mentioned, the best time for daylily propagation is spring. In autumn, they can also be transplanted, but daylily cuttings should be large.

Reproduction of daylilies by cuttings begins with the selection of a heavily overgrown bush, which is time to replant. Dig up a bush and, using a pruner or garden shears, cut off all the green mass and leave stumps about 15-20 cm high. Trimming the greens is necessary in order to restore the balance between the greens and damaged roots.

Now you can start dividing the bush. This can be done using a pitchfork, dividing the daylily bush into small cuttings. If you don't have a fork handy, you can try doing it by hand. Then dig a hole along the length of the cutting and pour a small handful of potassium sulphate into the bottom of the hole, as daylilies need slightly acidic soil. Place the cutting in the hole to the level of the root neck, carefully sprinkle with earth, tamp, and then water it.

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The daylily is called the lily of the lazy. And the Czech writer Karel Capek, in love with gardening, dubbed daylilies "the flowers of an intelligent lazybones." Probably, the poet of gardening dealt with natural types of daylily, they are really very unpretentious.
But if you want to see in your garden something more intricate than the red and yellow daylilies we are used to, you will have to get to know the nature of this plant better!

• Why does a daylily suddenly stop blooming?
• How to prepare for the awakening of sleeping daylilies in the spring?
• What varieties of daylilies are the most fragrant?
• What daylilies can be grown in a pot?
• Is it true that white daylilies are just a publicity stunt for breeders?

Read our article.

Listen to article

Planting and caring for daylilies

• Landing: sowing seeds in open ground before winter or in spring after stratification of the seed. Divide and transplant in the spring, in late April or early May.
• Bloom: depending on the species and variety from May to August.
• Lighting: bright sun, partial shade or shade.
• The soil: any garden soil, except sandy. The optimum soil is a rich, well-drained loam that is neutral to slightly acidic.
• Watering: infrequent but abundant. Water is poured under the root.
• Top dressing: full mineral fertilizer in the spring, when the leaves grow, and a month after the peak of flowering.
• Reproduction: varietal plants - by division, followed by transplantation in August or separation of the daughter outlet without digging up the plant. Species plants can be propagated by seed.
• Pests: thrips, water voles, lily mosquitoes, slugs.
• Diseases: root rot, fusarium, rust.

Read more about growing daylilies below.

Daylily (lat. Hemerocallis), or beautiful day- herbaceous rhizomatous perennial of the subfamily Daylily family Asphodelaceae. Homeland - East Asia. The daylily has been known to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about it in 1753, when Carl Linnaeus gave it the name "hemerokallis", which consists of two Greek words: "hemera", which means "day, day", and "callos" which means "beauty". In Russian, the plant is called krasodnev, that is, beauty that lives only one day.

Not only cultivated species and varieties of daylily are beautiful, but also “savages” growing in nature. In addition, daylily flowers are so unpretentious that flower growers call them the lazy gardener's plant, but this is true only for older varieties. In recent years, the daylily, thanks to American and Australian breeders, has been at the height of fashion: new varieties, although more capricious than the previous ones, are so incredibly beautiful that it is not at all a pity for the time or effort spent on them.

Daylily flower - description

The adventitious roots of the daylily are cord-like, usually fleshy, thick, and this helps the plants survive in drought. The leaves are basal, broadly linear, two-row, arcuately curved or straight. Daylily flowers are six-parted, large, most often funnel-shaped, orange, yellow, red-brown or yellow, collected several in inflorescences. Up to three flowers bloom at the same time, and the total duration of flowering of the daylily bush is more than three weeks. One or more peduncles are leafy, depending on the species and variety, from 30 cm to 1 m, sometimes even higher. Daylily fruit is a trihedral box with seeds. In horticulture, both natural plant species and numerous cultivars and forms are used.

Growing daylilies in the garden

How to grow a daylily

In nature, in their natural habitat, daylilies grow among shrubs on the edges of forests, so logically it is best to grow it in partial shade, and this will be correct if the penumbra is located in Australia, Africa or southern France. In our gardens, daylilies planted in partial shade may not have enough light and heat set for them to fully bloom, especially when it comes to hybrid varieties. Only bright sunlight will make the daylily bloom unique.

In the photo: Growing daylilies in a flower bed

The soil

As for daylily soil, although the plant is unpretentious and any garden soil will do, if you want to get the most out of the daylily, it is better to bring the soil into which you immerse the daylily root in accordance with its tastes: add sand to the clay soil and compost, into sandy - clay, enrich sod-podzolic soil with compost.

The ideal soil composition is rich loam with good drainage. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

If creating good drainage for the site is a problem, make raised beds for the daylilies. Otherwise, daylilies require attention, but do not cause trouble.

What colors go with daylilies

Daylilies in garden design are used both as single plants and as group plants. They look great against the background of trees and shrubs (viburnum, panicled hydrangea, bamboo). Very beautiful borders are obtained from dense-bush daylily varieties, and undersized, small-flowered species and varieties are very good near stone hills, on the banks of a reservoir or river. Daylilies are also used as a decoration for winter gardens, they stand for a long time in the cut in bouquets.

In the photo: Orange daylilies in the garden

Since by the end of summer many daylilies lose their decorative effect, think in advance in which plants to plant them in composition so that the yellowed, dying daylily leaves are not visible.

Designers advise using ornamental grasses, physostegia, yarrows of different shades or spotted loosestrife.

Daylily planting

When to plant a daylily

Plant plants from spring to autumn - planting time depends on your climate. If winter comes early and quickly in your area, then a daylily planted in autumn may not have time to take root before frost and die, because on average a plant needs a month to root. But if you choose garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in latitudes far from the south, your daylilies can have time to prepare for wintering in the garden. Besides, mulching beds with wintering daylilies can protect them from cold and frost.

In the photo: How daylilies grow in a flower bed

From these considerations, proceed when deciding when you plant flowers. Flower growers believe that the best time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is May or August. It is also better to divide and transplant daylilies in spring or August.

How to plant a daylily

Before planting a daylily, pre-purchased planting material should be soaked in water or highly diluted mineral fertilizer a few hours before planting in the ground so that the roots swell and come to life, and then you will immediately see which of the roots should be carefully removed. Cut the rest of the roots to 20-30 cm in length.

In the photo: Young daylily

Dig a separate hole up to 30 cm deep for each bush or delenka, and do not forget that you are planting a daylily for a long time, and a bush that has grown over time to 50-70 cm in diameter should not be crowded. Pour a mixture of sand, peat and humus into each hole, add ash with superphosphate or potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, lower the roots into the hole, spread them over the mound so that there are no voids under the roots, fill the hole with soil, but not completely.

As for diseases, the daylily is most often sick with fusarium, rust and root rot.

root rot manifests itself in the spring, when young leaves that have already grown back suddenly stop growing, turn yellow and are easily pulled out of the ground. It is necessary to dig up the plant, cut out all the areas affected by rot, wash the rhizome in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, treat the wounds with a fungicide, dry the rhizome for two days and transplant it to another place. Don't expect it to bloom for two years. In the area where the diseased plant grew, do not plant daylilies for at least a year.

In the photo: Daylily after the rain

Rust appears in daylilies only if patrinia grows somewhere nearby - do not place them in the neighborhood, and you will not have trouble. For prevention, carefully treat daylilies with fungicides.

Fusarium is a known problem. Affected plants have a depressed appearance, the leaves turn yellow and die prematurely, the roots look like dust. The disease is fungal, destroyed at an early stage by fungicides. If the infection has entered into full force, the plant will have to be burned, the soil where it grew, and neighboring plants must be sprayed with Fundazol. As a preventive measure, sterilize garden tools, add Fitosporin-M to irrigation water, loosen the topsoil after watering.

In the photo: Growing a daylily in the garden

Daylilies after flowering

According to one of the classifications, daylilies are divided into deciduous, or dormant, semi-evergreen and evergreen. Sleepers (Dormant) daylilies are distinguished by the fact that in autumn their leaves wither, die off, the plant goes into a dormant state until spring. Evergreen in our latitudes, they have only a two-three-week period of rest. Semi-evergreen (Semievergreen) occupy an intermediate position: in a warmer climate they behave like evergreens, in a cool climate they behave like deciduous ones: the leaves turn yellow, but growth does not completely stop.

How to plant and care for irises - in detail

In deciduous or dormant daylilies, it is better to cut off the aerial part for the winter, but not very low, leaving 15-20 cm above the surface. You don't need to cover them, since dormant daylilies are winter-hardy plants. However, in the eastern and northern regions of the country, in the event of a snowless winter, evergreen and semi-evergreen daylilies can freeze to death, especially if frosts are -20 ºC or lower. Therefore, it is better to cover them for the winter, like newly transplanted bushes, with dry leaves, spruce branches, straw or sawdust, but in early spring, do not forget to remove the shelter, as daylilies wake up very early.

Types and varieties of daylily

Natural types of daylilies

All natural types of daylilies are beautiful, so they are readily used in floriculture, especially since they are very easy to care for and undemanding to growing conditions. In addition, they are resistant to diseases and pests, tolerate drought and waterlogging, they are durable, finally. Popular species are yellow daylily, red daylily, Dumorier daylily, lemon yellow daylily, Middendorf daylily. Let's talk a little about some:

• daylily orange- the leaves are hard, dark green, up to 3 cm wide, sharply curved, the peduncles are branched at the top, up to a meter high, the flowers are asymmetric, up to 12 cm in diameter, orange in the middle with a red-brown tint, blooms in July, does not smell. In culture since 1890;
• daylily lemon yellow found only in areas of Central China, the shape of the flower resembles a white lily, it has a nocturnal type of flowering. Forms a bush 80-90 cm in height, peduncles are high, branched at the top, flower length - up to 14 cm, width - 12 cm, the aroma is pleasant and very strong. Blooms up to forty days in the second half of summer;
• day lily Dumortier, or wolf locust, grows in Northeast China, Japan, Korea and the Far East. Compact shrub up to 70 cm tall, bright green leaves 2-2.5 cm wide, peduncles at leaf level, 2-4 yellow-orange wide-open flowers 5 cm in diameter make up a dense inflorescence. Breeders favorite. In culture since 1830.

In the photo: Lemon yellow daylily

In the photo: Orange daylily

day lily hybrid

Or daylily garden - the common name of numerous varieties of hybrid origin, of which there are already more than 60,000. The greatest contribution to daylily breeding was made by American and Australian flower growers, who managed to create species that differ in flower shape, in the presence or absence of aroma, in flowering time, height and such a wide colors, which is difficult to say what color daylily is not in culture. The hybrid daylily is a subject of a voluminous and structurally complex classification, in which plants are divided according to the length of the peduncle, the shape and size of the flower, the timing of flowering, color, type of vegetation, and many more features, and we will not delve into the presentation of this scientific work, created to a greater extent for academic professionals. We will introduce you to some interesting types and varieties of daylilies that will help you get an impression of this amazing and beautiful flower.

Daylilies of the double group

This, simply put, is a terry type of daylilies with additional perianth petals. All varieties are incredibly beautiful. For example:

• Daylily Double Cutie- flower diameter - 10 cm, chartreuse-colored petals, green throat, medium-early flowering;
• Daylily Double Dream- petals of apricot color with a dark orange throat 12 cm in diameter, bush height 60 cm, basal leaves;
• Daylily Double Red Royal- the flowers are large, dark red, the petals resemble royal velvet. The shape of the flower is unusual: the outer petals are large, inside them there is an openwork rosette of smaller petals. The plant produces up to 30 peduncles, each with 10-20 flowers. Daylily re-blooming.

In the photo: Daylily Double Dream

In the photo: Daylily Double Yellow

In the photo: Daylily Double Cutie

Spider daylilies (Spiders)

Varieties with flowers in which segments are much longer than wide and resemble spiders in shape:

• Daylily Helix- a huge spider with a green throat, gradually turning into yellow petals, the ends of which are dark crimson - very beautiful;
• Arms to Heaven- a giant with a yellow-green throat and purple-red long petals, blooms profusely, height 90 cm, 16-20 flowers on a peduncle;
• Free Healing- a very large cream-yellow spider with a red throat, thin petals are strongly elongated, up to 45 buds on one peduncle.

fragrant daylilies

There are all colors, shapes and sizes. Daylilies are so beautiful that they might not smell at all, but growing a flower in your garden that combines beauty and wonderful aroma is the dream of any grower:

• Apple Spring- soft pink petals with a strongly corrugated greenish-yellow border around the edge. Flower diameter - 15 cm, on each peduncle 65 cm high up to 28 fragrant flowers;
• Ode to Faith- deep yellow color with a pink tint along the middle stripe of the petal, golden corrugated border, green throat. The height of the peduncle is 84 cm, the diameter of the flower is 15 cm, a delicate aroma;
• deciduous daylily Stella do Oro- delicate, fragrant, corrugated dark yellow funnel-shaped flowers 7 cm in diameter bloom profusely all summer. This variety is the winner of many awards from the American Society of Daylilies, it is beautiful not only in the garden, not only as a border plant, but also as a houseplant.

In the photo: Daylily Ode to Faith

In the photo: Daylily Stella do Oro

White daylilies

It must be said that among the varieties and forms of daylilies there are many that can be conditionally called white. Here are some of them:

• Apple Blossom White- white daylily with a yellow, strongly corrugated border. Height - 83 cm, on peduncles 2 branches with 25 flowers;
• Ruffled Parchment- corrugated white daylily with a smooth transition from creamy white to yellow in the throat area, very fragrant, flower diameter - 13 cm, peduncle height - 5 cm;
• Granny Smith- almost white petals with a green corrugated border.

In the photo: White daylily

In the photo: White daylily

The fact is that absolutely white daylilies do not exist either in nature or in culture, so breeders have introduced the expression “near white”, which means almost white. In fact, the petals of daylilies, called white, have very light shades of cream, melon, pink, lavender or yellow.

The middle of summer is the time for the lush flowering of daylilies, in terms of brightness and grace of flowers, daylilies are not inferior to lilies, and thanks to simple care and unpretentiousness, these perennial flowers have gained great popularity among garden flowers. Daylilies remain ornamental all season long., in spring the plant produces a whole waterfall of green leaves, from July to August the flowering of daylilies lasts. Now on sale there are a large number of varieties of daylilies with different colors, shapes of flowers, from this variety everyone will definitely choose something to their taste, or maybe they will collect a whole collection of various daylilies.

Daylily is also called "red day", for the fact that its flower blooms only on a clear day, and already fades in the evening, but the next day a new bud comes to life and so the daylily bloom can last up to two months. For a long time, specific daylilies and old varieties with simple orange-red or yellow flowers on tall peduncles have been growing in our gardens. Old varieties of daylily really have high tenacious qualities, require practically no care and grow rapidly, forming lush bushes from numerous shoots. Simple daylilies are planted along a fence or paths to create a green border, near a stream, a pond, next to ornamental shrubs and conifers, in company with other unpretentious garden perennials, where you want to plant greenery, create a background or close an ugly place.

New varieties of daylilies differ in larger expressive flowers that surprise with their shape and color. Daylily flowers of modern varieties often have rounded petals with a wavy or corrugated edge, with a solid color of cream, red, purple and other bright shades. Often a daylily flower has a pattern of a bright border, a contrasting eye in the center, or spots and spills over the petals. I want to admire the exotic beautiful flowers of daylilies up close, carefully consider, so they are often placed in flower beds in the foreground in composition with other flowers and ornamental foliage plants. To do this, new varieties of daylilies usually do not exceed a height of 80 cm, and their peduncles are strong and thick to hold large, heavy flowers.

Unlike generic and old varieties of daylilies, modern varieties with large flowers require more careful care and proper planting.. New varieties of daylilies do not grow as fast as wild plants, but every year the bush will become more magnificent and give more flower stalks.

Planting daylilies and reproduction.

Due to the rapid growth of daylily bushes and the ease of propagation, a large amount of planting material can be obtained. An adult daylily bush can be divided into 20-40 parts. Having planted a delenka with one or two points of growth, after three years the plant forms a lush bush, and after 5 years it can already be divided for reproduction.

Without a transplant, a daylily can grow in one place for more than 10 years. so that the daylily bush does not thicken, which can make it bloom worse, and the flowers form smaller, it is recommended to divide it after 5 years.

Transplanting and dividing a daylily bush can be done at any time in spring and summer, except late autumn. The deadline for planting a daylily in open ground is mid-September. When planting a delenka in October, the rooting of the plant is slow, and a fragile flower may not survive the winter. Daylilies planted in spring take root quickly. In the first year after planting, plants should be regularly watered, protected from pests and diseases.

Landing place. Places in the garden that the sun illuminates until lunch are well suited for planting daylilies. In an open place in a hot summer, varietal daylilies may suffer from elevated temperatures, lack of moisture, large flowers with a dark color will fade, and whitish spots will appear on the leaves - burns. The daylily blooms well when the sun hits it for no more than 6 hours a day, the rest of the time the plant should be in an openwork shade.

The soil. Daylilies love fertile garden soil, neither heavy nor poor. In a place where the earth is heavy, to increase its drainage properties, coarse sand and peat are introduced, and clay and humus are added to poor sandy soil. Perennial rhizomatous plants will get wet in places where water constantly accumulates after rain or snow melt, so in a low place it is necessary to make an elevation for planting flowers.

After choosing a place to plant a daylily, dig deep into the soil. Daylily planting holes do more than the size of the root system. Mix the earth taken out of the holes with sand, peat, humus and wood ash, as the daylily does not like acidic soil.

Delenki with dried roots must be soaked before planting, removing all dead roots.

At the bottom of the hole, pour a mound, spread the roots over it and pour water so that the soil is soaked deep into. From above, fill the division so that the root neck is 2 cm below the soil level, but no more. To prevent the planted socket from moving, pin it with a wire bracket.

Daylily care in the open field.

Top dressing. The planted daylily is watered regularly so that it takes root faster. In the first year after planting, the daylily is not fertilized, as it is still adapting, taking root and not actively growing. From the second year, the plants are fed in the spring with the beginning of the regrowth of leaves - nitrogen fertilizer, in the summer with the appearance of peduncles - complex mineral fertilizer. The older the bush, the more the daylily requires nutrition, as its growth force increases, and the soil around it is depleted. In total, up to 50-100 grams of fertilizer are applied at a time and buried in the soil by loosening.

The growth rate of the bush, the splendor of flowering and the quality of the opening flowers depend on the abundance of nutrients.. In summer, daylilies should not be fed with nitrogen fertilizer, which enhances the growth of greenery, due to which flowering weakens. In order for the flowers of varietal daylilies to be large and colorful, plants need a complete mineral fertilizer with various trace elements - potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, molybdenum, manganese, etc.

Watering. Daylilies are moisture-loving flowers and require watering in hot, dry summers. Daylilies can tolerate short-term drying of the soil, as they have roots with thickenings where they accumulate moisture, but during the flowering period, plants need a lot of water in order to open a new flower every day.

Water the daylily abundantly, but not often, so that the topsoil dries out.. It is impossible to water the plant from above so that water does not fall on the flowers, or make a groove in the center of the bush around the circumference and fill it with water several times so that the soil is deeply saturated with water.

Other daylily care in the summer is weeding and loosening the earth around the plants as needed. Mulching the soil with crushed tree bark, peat or humus can reduce flower care work, as a layer of mulch will prevent weeds from germinating and retain moisture in the soil longer.

Why the daylily does not bloom.

If you planted a daylily, it grows every year, but does not bloom, then you may have made mistakes when planting, caring for or choosing a variety of this perennial.

The daylily grows rapidly and produces many new cuttings per year with a large amount of nitrogen in the soil. . However, the active growth of green mass is at the expense of flowering.. For daylily flowering, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or complete mineral fertilizer, and completely exclude organic fertilizers with manure or infusion of herbs.

- Daylily will not flower or produce few flower stalks when planted in the shade. By transplanting the plant to a more sunny place, the daylily will bloom in full force.

Daylily does not bloom when planted deep, if the root neck of the plant is below the soil level, more than 2 cm.

Some daylily varieties may not be suitable for the climate zone when grown in regions with frosty winters. First of all, these are evergreen daylilies, they can survive at low temperatures, but they will not have the strength to bloom.

- Daylilies may not bloom in hot, dry summers due to lack of moisture and heat stress., at this time the plants require regular abundant watering.

Another reason, why the daylily does not bloom - pest or disease damage. Daylily can attack thrips or spider mites, these pests are difficult to see due to their small size, but they actively breed mainly in hot and dry summers. With a combination of adverse conditions and the attack of pests, plants quickly weaken. To get rid of pests, systematic treatment with insecticidal preparations will help. To make a daylily healthy, cut its leaves in half to encourage new leaves to grow.

Sometimes a daylily has flower stalks, buds are formed, but they do not open, fall off. It happens usually in cold and rainy summer when the average daily air temperature does not reach +18 degrees.

Fans of daylilies constantly have a question: cut the foliage for the winter or not?

Many years of practice has shown that this is not necessary. Why? Firstly, the old foliage will act as a shelter in late autumn and winter, especially during severe frosts on bare ground. Secondly, it favorably affects the overall overwintering of semi-evergreen (SEV) and evergreen (EVR) varieties, since they do not have a clear dormant period, and pruning in the fall will provoke a resumption of growth during autumn and winter thaws.

Also, many newcomers to this culture are shocked by fans rotten to the base (in semi-evergreens and evergreens) after the plants emerge from under the snow. Many believe that the plant has died, and begin to dig. Practice has shown that this should not be done. Why? When digging up and then re-planting, the plants lose a lot of vitality (they already came out of the winter weakened), which often ends in failure.

What to do? It is necessary to remove all frosted and rotted foliage to the very base of the root neck, then with the index finger to clean out all the remaining putrefaction to the hard base of the neck, if necessary, rake the earth from the root neck. Thus, you will let the place of stripping dry. As soon as the base is dry and without any signs of rotting, I recommend sprinkling the stripping area with any fungicide. If you did everything correctly and on time, then after a while the lateral buds will wake up, and the plant will recover. In 95% of cases, the plant survives and can even please with flowering in the same year.

Attention! If, when checking the root neck, the finger does not find a solid base and goes much deeper than the level of the neck, then 99% of the plant died.

The question of the quality of the purchased/received daylily material is also acute.

It is clear as day that everyone wants to get large roots with green leaves. But this is ideal, as a rule, we get small and dried roots with completely dried leaves.

This is usually associated with long transportation (for example, from the USA) or long storage (when orders are very large and digging occurs in stages). You shouldn't worry too much about this.

You will need to free the plant from dried foliage (especially if the roots propped up during transportation), shorten the shoots (if they are long and discolored), cut the rotten roots and soak for a day or two in water with the addition of any growth and root stimulant. Within a few hours, you will see how your "crackers" will begin to come to life and new roots will appear.

Remember: the daylily is very difficult to kill, unless you originally got it with viral rot (leaves and root neck are soft and drain a disgusting putrid smell), in which case the plant can no longer be saved. But as a rule, this rarely comes from local collectors.

Before planting, you can still soak in any fungicide, so to speak, for safety. The landing itself is best done in cloudy weather, but if the weather is sunny and hot, then the landings will need to be shaded for 5-10 days (depending on further weather conditions) with boxes, lutrasil or a camouflage net on supports. I would not recommend fertilizing such frail plants during planting, it is better to do this later, when the plant enters the phase of active growth.

Should daylilies be fertilized, and if so, with what?

The most important "fertilizer" for the daylily is H 2 0, i.e. water. Yes, yes, the development of the whole plant, the size of the flower, the abundance of flowering and even the quality of color depend on the quality of watering. Although it is believed that daylilies can grow and bloom without additional watering, the plant itself is very moisture-loving.

It loves both abundant watering under the root with wetting the earth to a depth of 20-25 cm, and sprinkling on the above-ground part of the plant (of course, not in the scorching sun). As for organic and mineral fertilizers, they also have a positive effect on the development of the plant, especially if they are newfangled exotics, which in our latitudes require more strength and nutrients to confirm all their beauty.

For such "gentlemen" it is possible to recommend 3 meals a day with complex fertilizers with microelements: at the stage of the beginning of growth - with a slightly increased content of nitrogen, at the stage of bud formation - with a slightly increased content of potassium, and two weeks after flowering - with a complete absence of nitrogen, those. potassium + phosphorus. The same menu is suitable for all other daylilies.

Foliar feeding is particularly relevant in gardens with sandy soil, where mineral substances are washed out very quickly, and often the plants do not have time to receive the required dose.

The quality of flowering and the flower itself (especially size) is affected by the density of plantings: the denser the daylilies sit to each other, the smaller the flowers. The optimal distance between the bushes is 34-40 cm.

Sometimes people are interested in how deep it is necessary to plant a daylily, since in some the bushes stick out of the ground (they can freeze as a result), in others they go deep into the ground (they can rot a lot). The optimum planting depth on loamy soils is 3 cm, on sandy soils - 5 cm.

Another topical and recently frequently pop-up question is the question meristems (cloning) of daylilies.

Based on many years of experience, I can say that simple plain daylilies, without any frills and bells and whistles, almost completely convey all the properties of their vegetatively propagated counterparts.

But! If the question arises about varieties with foam corrugation, appliqué pattern, patterning and serration, then the meristem loses a lot here, and as a rule, you will not get that beautiful flower that was stated in the picture of the bag bought in the store.

Here are two varieties for you to compare. On the left is a meristem, on the right is a vegetatively propagated specimen (import from the USA).

Also, in meristem daylilies, you may encounter a complete lack of flowering, you just have to “enjoy” only green foliage.

I will share another observation related to varieties of newfangled trends: kaleidoscopes, patterned and toothy daylilies.

I would recommend to a simple lover to be very careful in their choice, since not all varieties perform well in our climatic zone (the northern region and central Russia). For example, teeth and tentacles along the edge of the petals, from which you were completely delighted, looking at the photos of American hybridizers, do not appear in your garden even in the 3-4th year of flowering. The same thing happens with kaleidoscopes and patterned varieties.

The reason, as I wrote earlier, is the lack of heat and sun, a short summer. What to do if you really want to? Plant the plants in the sunniest place and try to achieve the influx of forces necessary for full-fledged flowering into the plant itself with the help of additional dressings, or better, before buying, get detailed advice from a self-respecting collector (who sells such a variety) for his personal observations.

What do you want to say in conclusion? Daylily is a very grateful flower, if you give it at least a little of your precious time and properly care for it.

A plant for the busy grower

Our daylily is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and ease of care. Growing and growing well without transplants and rejuvenation, the daylily can grow well up to 10 years. Dividing the bush stimulates the growth and lush flowering of the daylily and is the easiest way to propagate it.

You can plant and transplant a daylily at any time, except for the flowering period and very hot weather. It is better to do this in the first decade of May or in late August - early September.

Sharing slowly

Once every 5-7 years, the daylily is dug up, shaken off or washed off the soil from the roots. Old and large bushes are left in the shade for several hours so that the roots are slightly wilted and not so fragile, and then they are cleaned from the ground. Daylily roots are strongly intertwined, and sometimes hasty or inexperienced growers divide daylilies with a knife, which injures the plant and leads to the loss of part of the planting material.

Be patient and carefully unravel and divide the roots into divisions so that each has a part of the rhizome with a bud or fan of leaves cut to 20 cm. The roots are shortened by a third. A daylily division is planted so that the root neck is deepened by no more than 2-3 cm.

Sometimes there are daylily bushes! "loose". In this case, you can divide without completely digging out the plant. Part of the bush is separated with a shovel, cutting the roots.

Daylily planting

It will be a big mistake if you choose a damp place for planting daylilies. This plant has a strong root system and is drought tolerant. Excess moisture harms the flower. That is why watering is resorted to only in the most emergency cases, when the weather has been dry for a long time. It is enough to moisten the soil under the plant abundantly once (this should be done in the evening) and no longer worry about how the flower will endure drought and heat.

Daylily prefers well-cultivated, loamy, slightly acidic soils with deep groundwater. Plant plants at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other. The planting hole should be larger in diameter than the volume of the root system. If required, drainage is poured at the bottom of the pit: gravel, expanded clay, broken brick. It is advisable to add humus and fill most of the pit with a soil mixture of compost, peat, sand and garden soil.

In the future, during the growing season, it is enough to carry out only two top dressings. The first - with complex mineral fertilizers in the spring, when the daylily wakes up and begins to release leaves. Dry granules should be scattered between the bushes (a handful for each), mixed with the ground with a rake and watered well. The time of the second feeding comes in August, a month after flowering. At this time, the plants are at rest, laying flower buds for the next season. For this purpose, we recommend using Fertika Lux, a water-soluble fertilizer that stimulates the formation of buds. After making it, daylilies should be well watered.

: How daylilies are propagated by division In flowers ... The depth of planting flowers - which is more correct? : At what depth to plant flowers Frequent ...

daylilies(Hemerocallis) are perennials, the flowers of which can be of various shades. The name of the plant is translated from Greek in two words: "hemera" - day and "kallos" - beauty. So it is called due to the fact that the flower fades the next day. People also call the plant a “flower of joy”, they believe that if you touch the flower, it will bring good luck, sorrows and sorrows will go away.

Daylily Description

Day-lily- this is a perennial culture, it is perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions of winter in Russia, calmly endures sudden changes in the weather, strong north winds, drafts, frosts. The plant loves moisture and good lighting. It is easy to take care of him.

Different types of plants have different bud opening times, from April to June. Peduncles stretch from lush leaves, with flowers in the form of funnels.

Interesting! Although the daylily flower lives only one day, this is usually not noticed, because there can be up to 50 buds on the peduncle, and every day many of them open, while there can be up to 30 peduncles on one plant.

Plants of the same species bloom for about a month. The flowers smell of sandalwood and amber. Some of varieties bloom 2 times during the vegetative period.

Two-row basal leaves, which are collected in a lush fan, look beautiful and decorative, it is straight or in the form of an arc. There are varnegate species, they have leaves with whitish or yellowish longitudinal stripes.

To keep your garden looking beautiful all season long, plant a variety of daylily varieties.

Types and varieties of daylily

natural views

In nature daylilies grow along the edges of forests, in partial shade. They are immune to diseases caused by fungi, resistant to pest attacks, easily endure dry summers, as well as excess moisture. They live long. Just take care of them. The most common types are - day-lily ginger, day-lily du Maurier, day-lily lemon yellow, day-lily Middendorf.

Day-lily red or brown-yellow is eaten using flowers and buds, and salads are made from young leaves. Leaves are used for liver diseases and as a mild sleeping pill.

Daylily hybrid or garden

This is the collective name of hybrids, there are more than 60,000 of them:

daylilies Double groups:

• Double Dream with apricot flowers;
• Double cutie with greenish yellow flowers;
• Double Classic;
• Double Red Royal with scarlet flowers.

These are terry flowers, which have additional perianth petals.

daylilies arachnids:

• Helix with bright yellow flowers that have a crimson hue along the edges;
• Grape Witch with many purple-scarlet flowers;
• Arms to Heaven;
• Starp Twister;
• Free Healing with cream buds.

This is varieties with flowers similar to arachnids.

daylilies fragrant (Apple Spring, Oda to Fach, Pandora Box) - has a strong smell.

daylilies white (Apple Blossom White, Ruffled Parchment, Granny Smith). It should be noted that there are no pure white flowers in nature. Because of this, breeders call these varieties"near white", translated from English, it means "almost white".

Watch the video! daylilies

Daylily planting

The soil

Daylilies like fertile loams. If the soil on the site is heavy or depleted, with landing dug out of planting holes priming needs to be mixed with fertilizers. But nitrogen should be carefully added, as it slows down the opening of buds.

Advice! Daylilies love soils rich in organic matter, having neutral or slightly acidic properties (6-6.5 pH) with drainage.

The plant has large rhizomes, they do not tolerate stagnant groundwater. With clay ground add decomposed humus, manure, sand. Groundwater will not stagnate if you make drainage, you can still make high flower beds.

Lighting

daylilies love bright light, but varieties, having a lighter color of flowers, it is recommended to plant in well-lit places, and varieties with purple, scarlet flowers - planted in places with a slight shading. Also, the culture prefers a spacious place, since the diameter of the bush can be up to 70 cm.

Planting process

If you live in an area where autumn is short and winter is very frosty, then plant day-lily better in spring. If you live in the south, then plant the plant in the fall.

Reference! Dig holes at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other to a depth of 30 cm.

Pour peat, humus, and also 30 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate onto the earth dug out of the pits, and mix everything thoroughly, otherwise the plants will burn. Pour fertile soil into the hole, form a cone.

Before landing plants, inspect the rhizome, cut off all rotten roots, sprinkle the wounds with ash. Place the plants for 3-4 hours in Kornevin's solution. You can make a willow infusion by placing willow branches in water for 2 days, and then put the roots daylilies in this infusion for 3 hours.

After that, place the plant on an earthen cone so that the root neck is 2-3 cm in the ground, straighten the rhizome, cover it with soil.

tamp down priming, water the plants abundantly, sprinkle on top of the mulch from rotted sawdust, fir needles, peat. first week after landings culture is watered every day.

In the first year after planting, it is not necessary to feed the crop, due to the fact that it has enough fertilizer that you applied when landing.

daylily care

Care behind daylilies simple and effortless.

Watering

Plants are rarely watered, only if the weather is dry for a long time. In this case, such abundant evening watering is necessary so that priming moistened to a depth of 30 cm. The lack of moisture is visible by the faded leaves, by the fact that the plants do not grow buds in any way, by the fall of the buds that have already appeared.

Fertilizer

Remember that top dressing can be done 2 weeks after rooting. Young daylilies fertilize 2-3 times during the vegetative period, and grown plants - 4-5 times.

Early in the spring make a solution of 1 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska granules and buckets of water. Water the culture at the root.

In April and May, fertilize with a solution of nitroammophosphate, ammophos or diammonium phosphate.

Advice! In summer, when the buds open, the flowers are fertilized with organic fertilizers: a solution of bird droppings, mullein, fermented grass.

In September day-lily they are fed with nitroammophos or sulfate mixed with ash - the choice of fertilizer depends on the region. This contributes to the fact that in the next season larger flowers will grow and there will be more of them.

Mulching

Mulch is placed in order to priming remained loose. Sand mulch is poured into the center of the bush with a layer of 3 cm. If the earth is depleted, on priming peat or humus is poured between the bushes, and if the soil is rich in organic matter, then coniferous needles or bark are used. This protects the crop from sudden changes in the weather, prevents the evaporation of moisture in the ground and the growth of weeds. Mulch with a layer of 6-7 cm.

Daylily transplant

daylilies can be grown in one area for 15 years, but with age, the flowers become less and less. Therefore, the bushes are planted.

Dig around the ground daylily and take out the plant with a large clod of earth, do this carefully so as not to damage the rhizome. Put the roots under the shower then you'll flush priming, then carefully divide into separate fans. In this case, you can not even use a pruner, but if you still used it, then treat the wounds with a fungicide.

Plant and transplant the crop on a day when there is no sun. If the weather is hot and the sun is shining brightly, then place the delenki and bushes in the river sand for 2 weeks so that new roots do not grow.

Before planting, cut the roots, cut the foliage to 15-20 cm. Plant bushes to a new location.

Daylily reproduction

You can propagate the culture by dividing the bush, rosettes, sowing seeds.

The division of the bush

When dividing the bush, the grown plants will have characteristics similar to the mother ones. The bush can be divided all season. But it is best to do this from the beginning of June to September, then the culture can take root before the onset of frost. Usually the bush is divided at the age of 3-4 years or if the buds have become medium-sized.

Reproduction by rosettes

There is another method of reproduction, but it is suitable only for varieties, which grow loose bushes.

When the plant is 3-4 years old, cut off the outlet with roots from the mother bush. Put a sharp shovel in place of the future incision and sharply separate the outlet. After the socket is dug, removed from the soil and transplanted.

Wounds, cuts are sprinkled with ash or crushed coal. Do it early in the spring when daylily foliage begins to grow or in the fall after you cut the foliage from the plants.

seed propagation

During seed propagation, the grown young plants will be different from the mother ones, therefore, breeders use this technique when they go to get a new one. grade.

Seeds are sown at the end of February in a box with soil. First, the seeds are laid out on moistened fine pebbles, cloth or perlite. When the seeds swell and begin to hatch, then sow them in pots with universal soil for seedlings. The bottom of the pots should have holes for drainage. Seeds are placed at a depth of 1 cm. Water well. landings, put on the southern windowsill. Sprouts are fertilized 1-2 times a month with complex fertilizers. 1-2 weeks before transplanting to the site, plants begin to harden, taking them out to the balcony for a short time.

At the end of May, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in open ground.

Preparing for winter

daylilies subdivided into deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen.

In deciduous plants, the foliage turns yellow in autumn, dries up, falls off, they sleep until spring. Evergreens varieties dormant state lasts 2-3 weeks. Semi-evergreens are somewhere in between: in the south they are like evergreens, and in the north they are deciduous, their foliage turns yellow, but they do not stop growing.

Advice! In the north and east of Russia, if a winter without snow is expected, evergreen and semi-evergreen plants can freeze out when the air temperature is below -20 degrees. Therefore, in the fall they need to be covered with fallen leaves, branches of spruce, pine, straw, sawdust. Also cover newly transplanted bushes. But in early spring, remove the shelter, otherwise the plants under it will rot.

Do not forget to weed, pull out weeds, cut off faded flower stalks and dry foliage.

Daylily pests and diseases

The culture is rarely attacked by insects, it does not often get sick, but sometimes it happens. Of the pests, the most dangerous are thrips, lily mosquitoes, water voles and slugs.

Thrips are small oblong beetles, they can be gray, brown, black. The length of their body is from 0.5 mm to 0.5 cm.

Mosquitoes lay their eggs in buds, larvae emerge from them, in the process of growth they feed on petals, as a result, the flowers will be deformed. If there are not too many mosquitoes, then cut off the wilted flowers.

Water voles gnaw on the roots of plants. You can buy poison and sprinkle it near the burrows, and also spray cotton wool or dried grass with poison and place it near the burrows, then the voles will drag them away and get poisoned.

Slugs can be collected by hand or sprayed landings drug "Thunderstorm".

Most dangerous for daylily diseases - fusarium, rust and root rot.

With root rot, the foliage stops growing, turns yellow. Dig up day-lily, cut off all the roots with rot, wash the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and treat the wounds with Fitosporin, then dry the rhizome for 2 days and plant plant to a new location. It will bloom only after 2 years. In the place where you dug up the culture with root rot, do not plant plants for a year.

Day-lily gets sick with rust if patrinia is planted nearby. On the leaves daylily voids are visible. When they crack, a rusty powder is poured out. To prevent the disease, treat the plants with fungicides "Abiga-Peak", "Oxyhom", "Topaz".

With Fusarium, the foliage turns yellow and falls off, the rhizome looks like dust. The disease is caused by a fungus. If the plant is slightly affected by Fusarium, then spray it with fungicides. If the culture is severely affected, then tear out and burn the bush, and treat the plants near and the ground with foundationazole.

For prevention, disinfect the tools used, add phytosporin-M to the water when watering, loosen priming after watering.

Day-lily frost-resistant, incredibly beautiful plant that creates a feeling of peace and joy and does not require complex care.

Watch the video! Daylily reproduction