Preparations for the destruction of weeds in the country. How to get rid of weeds on the site with folk remedies? Mulching beds and flower beds

The second half of summer comes and the weeds at this time behave most actively - their growth at this time is comparable only with the middle of spring - I have a fight with only one ragweed takes up to a third of the "summer time"

Having settled on beds, flower beds and lawns, weeds compete with cultural plantings, take away water, nutrients from them and deprive them of light. And here's the problem - getting rid of them is not so easy. After spending the weekend weeding the garden, after a week you find that all the work has gone down the drain and the weeds have regained their lost positions.

Weeds are extremely tenacious: they do not freeze even in the coldest winters and are able to reproduce by self-sowing. Their seeds remain viable for more than one year, and the segments of roots remaining in the ground give rise to new weeds. In addition, most of them serve as carriers of pathogens of various diseases of cultivated plants and provide pests with a comfortable wintering. Therefore, weeds must be ruthlessly expelled from the site. And weapons for such a battle should be chosen very carefully. After all, the outcome of the battle for a beautiful garden and a fruitful garden largely depends on him. First of all, decide which method of weed control you prefer - mechanical or chemical.

Both of them have pros and cons. Mechanical - using modern equipment and hand tools - more gentle for the environment, but at the same time more laborious. Chemical - simple, but not always safe.

If you have the strength and time, and the prospect of poking around in the beds and flower beds gives you only positive emotions, then the mechanical method of weed control was invented for you. But even here there are some subtleties, because the choice of weapons against weed plants largely depends on the characteristics of the battlefield. What factors should be taken into account here?

First of all - the state of the soil, the degree of its cultivation. For processing virgin lands, abandoned allotments or a solid-sized area with heavy loamy soil that accumulates moisture, it is better to use powerful equipment with all its rich arsenal - hiller, plow and other attachments. Such multifunctional units can be safely entrusted with all earthworks - from plowing to weed control. Important: the more powerful the technique, the larger the processing area.

A giant who easily plowed ten acres, on a small patch of a flower garden, will look like an elephant in a china shop. Therefore, if the scope of work is small, use manual equipment. To tidy up light soils, such as sandy loam, you can use mechanical disc cultivators with durable and not too heavy cutters made of hardened aluminum or ordinary hand tools - choppers, hoes and rippers. When choosing inventory, pay attention not only to working nozzles, but also to handles. After all, the efficiency and rational use of forces depends primarily on the handle. It is best to buy a combination set consisting of an ergonomic handle and interchangeable nozzles. A practical option with a universal adapter, which will allow you to connect nozzles from other manufacturers to the handle.

The nature of planting is another factor influencing the choice of weeding tool. If the aisles are wide, then small and mobile electric or motor cultivators can work here, the mass of which varies between 8-15 kg. Most often, they “ride” on their own cutters, which loosen the ground and shred low weeds and their roots. For frequent plantings, miniature equipment is needed that provides shallow vertical loosening, in which weeds are destroyed in a limited area. Electric choppers and cultivators with rotating vertical cutters can easily cope with this work. If you need to get rid of the "green invaders" an alpine hill or tiny greenhouses, then only manual equipment will cope with such jewelry work. Choppers, hoes, cultivators, weeders with long or short handles - this is the tool for this work. The best option is a universal hoe, which has a double-sided working part: on the one hand, a cutting plane, and on the other, a fork or trident. Important: the size of the tool must correspond to the work planned for it, since it is very difficult to spud a hundred plantings of potatoes and weed a bed of carrots with the same tool. The material from which the working nozzles are made is also important. Hardened steel guarantees the strength and durability of tools even when working on heavy loamy soils, while titanium and hardened aluminum make the equipment lighter and more suitable for processing light soils, such as sandy loam.

chemical method weed control seems much simpler than mechanical, and does not require serious physical effort. It would seem, what is so difficult? Choose a calm, windless, overcast but not rainy day and spray green weeds with herbicide. But not everything is so simple. If you use a continuous preparation and weeds are adjacent to cultivated plants, they must be fenced off with a film so that drops of herbicide do not fall on them, otherwise the cultural plantings will disappear along with the weeds. If a powerful weed nestled comfortably surrounded by flowers and it is impossible to spray it, apply a chemical weed killer on the leaves can be a regular brush. In many cases, herbicides turn out to be a real lifesaver, because such malicious weeds as hogweed or wheatgrass can only be destroyed by chemicals. Important: herbicides begin their destructive work almost immediately.

Herbicides of continuous action destroy all plants in a row (both annuals and perennials). Remember: spray foliar herbicides only on green weeds, not on the soil. And don't count on chemical preparations to permanently rid your garden of weeds, because their seeds, which have previously fallen into the ground, will germinate throughout the growing season. But weeds will be much less.

Selective herbicides kill certain types of plants. They are especially needed on grassy lawns, where mechanical weed control is problematic, as weeding tools ruin the beauty of green carpets. Lawn grasses for specialized herbicides are taboo, and most weeds die after spraying with such preparations. Garden crops are not so lucky. In summer cottages, on planting potatoes and tomatoes, so far it is allowed to use only one substance that destroys weeds.

Note - without any advertising I will advise you weed killer tornado- in my country house it showed itself perfectly, and even the lawn quickly returned to normal (just carefully read the instructions, the tool is very powerful).

Important: many summer residents are distrustful of chemicals. And in vain! After all, it is not the means that bring harm, but their misuse. And the indicated consumption rates of the drug are calculated according to the results of numerous tests. Therefore, if you strictly follow the instructions, chemical plant protection products will only benefit the garden.

Garden plants against weeds

The ubiquitous weeds immediately populate empty spaces in flower beds. The most convenient and easiest way to resist them is to plant beautifully flowering herbaceous perennials that easily propagate by self-sowing and thus quickly fill the voids. Among these plants, the most popular can be called aquilegia (Aquilegia), the lovely flowers of which bloom in early summer.

Almost at the same time, the giant onion (Allium giganteum) blooms, which develops especially actively on soil with good water permeability, in a sunny place. Under the sun, the red centrantus (Centranthus ruber) also feels great.

Its pink or white inflorescence-caps crown the plant until the beginning of autumn. Summer-flowering orange-red hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum) settles with pleasure on dry rocky slopes.

Purple mullein (Verbascum phoeniceim) is unusual in that it appears in different places every year.

Purple foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) prefers shady corners, as well as low Corydalis (Corydalis pumila).

The flowers of the field sawdust (Acinos arvensis), although unsightly, are very fond of bees. Tip: Don't cut wilted flower stalks so the seeds can disperse.

Note to the gardener:

Bindweed and povoi - how to fight

exuberant growth bindweed can quickly become a problem for the garden. Its shoots, reaching two meters, spread along the ground or wrap around plants. Bindweed is easily recognizable by its funnel-shaped fragrant white flowers with five pink stripes (photo below left). Due to the powerful root system, which penetrates very deep into the soil, surface weeding helps only partly in the fight against this uninvited "guest". Therefore, if possible, you need to select all segments of the roots.

Moreover, it is desirable to do this before it fades and forms seeds, because on one stem of a plant, up to 500 seeds are formed on average, which remain viable for a long time (in the soil up to 10 years).

The second "stubborn" plant is new fence. When dealing with this plant, it is also important to regularly remove all roots from the ground. The frond has large white, sometimes pink, funnel-shaped flowers that appear in summer on shoots several meters long. Tip: Regular weeding is best done when the soil is sufficiently moist. In this case, the roots and surface shoots will be much easier to remove.

Weeds cause great damage to vegetable plants. They interfere with their growth, are accumulators of pests and diseases. Thanks to a well-developed root system, they consume 30-40% or more of mineral fertilizers and irrigation water applied to the soil, make it difficult to cultivate the soil and care for crops.

Fight without a break

Weeds shade cultivated crops to a sufficiently strong degree, thereby reducing their yield and deteriorating the quality of vegetable products. And if you do not fight weeds, then you can not get the long-awaited harvest at all.

No matter how carefully you choose miners before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, new harmful plants will still appear. Therefore, the fight-5a with them should be constant and long.

Unfortunately, only agrotechnical methods of weed control are acceptable in vegetable crops in a summer cottage. The use of chemicals (herbicides) is impractical for many reasons.

Rake and chopper

One of the first agrotechnical methods aimed at the destruction of weeds is pre-emergence raking harrowing. Experts call it harrowing in the phase of "white threads". Weed seeds are better adapted to the low temperature of the soil in the spring, and already on the 3-4th day after sowing, weed shoots appear on the surface of the bed. In appearance, they resemble small pieces of white thread and at this point in their lives are very sensitive to mechanical damage. If in the morning harrowing is carried out across the rows, then about 80% of the germinated seeds will be destroyed. In the future, the main way to deal with them is weeding with a chopper. This should be done regularly to prevent annual weeds from growing and gradually deplete the underground parts of perennials.

On a note:

It must be remembered that in careless hands a chopper can do more harm than good. Therefore, it must be kept away from the stems of vegetable crops and the blade should not be buried more than 2.5 cm from the soil surface.

Combing and trimming

The battle with perennial rhizomatous (wheatgrass) and root weeds (comb thistle) is especially difficult. In the fight against wheatgrass, the combing method is the most effective. Therefore, on ridges clogged with couch grass, it is better to treat the aisles with cat rippers, with the help of which couch grass rhizomes can be extracted from the soil. Field thistle is best dealt with by regularly trimming rosettes (depletion method). For this, it is best to use an ordinary hoe.

Burn and soak

Weeded weeds are used in different ways in a summer cottage. As for wheatgrass rhizomes, they should not be used for compost, but rather dried and burned. The remaining annual weeds are good material for future humus. If the weeds are in a young stage (before flowering), then they can be used as mulching material in the garden or on the vegetable bed.

They are also good as fertilizer. To do this, after weeding, weeds are washed off the ground, large ones are crushed and filled with them by a third of the barrel and filled with water. Add 0.5 cups of soda ash to the infusion. The barrel is tied with foil and placed in a sunny place. Insist 2 weeks. Subsequently, the resulting infusion is diluted in a tenfold amount of water and used to feed plants.

Are the weeds gone? Peace, only peace!

What is a weed? This is the grass that grows in our garden not according to our desire. Oh, summer residents will sigh, but if there weren’t these weeds at all! Imagine how much time would be freed up, and the well-known pose of the summer resident - the fifth point up - would cease to be the topic of jokes.

When I bought a house in the village and planned a garden, made beds, I had no idea at all that communication with weeds would be so close and constant. In May, the grass is crisp, reassuringly green, and pleasantly small. But June comes, and the grassy jungle begins. No watering, no fertilizer - the grass does not need anything, it is more and more magnificent and taller. That's how vegetables grew in the beds! My father told me that my grandmother in Soviet times could mow thirty acres in a workday. And so - every day. I am not such a strong and heroic woman, although I learned to mow with an old hand scythe, and I even liked it.

So I had to negotiate with the weeds. But first and; learned from neighbors.

Experience of villagers in weed control

The villagers mow - wherever, in their mind, there should be no grass, where it interferes, or where the grass is the most juicy - this goes for hay. In the mornings, when the summer heat has not yet come and the horseflies have not woken up, all the villagers weed their beds. This is a mandatory ritual. And so every year. And the weeds are still growing.

Experience of neighbors-dacha residents

The favorite pastime of summer residents is weeding. As a result - pristine land of beds near cabbage, beets, carrots and everything else. Strawberries are planted in holes made in lutrasil. My neighbor Inessa Alekseevna, a gardener with great experience, is surprised: how else, if not weeding? And every day she is on the battlefield - God forbid, some blade of grass "left" will come out in the garden.

And another neighbor, Nina, loves flowers - she has a chic front garden flower garden. But somehow strange, in my opinion, roses, daisies and other beauty look against the backdrop of bare earth. Here, too, they are at war with all the uninvited greenery.

My experience

I am a city dweller in the past, so I have not been accustomed to weeding since childhood, and I do not like this occupation. It is unlikely that I will come to terms with weeding in the future. Therefore, I began to look for my own way of weed control.

Initially, when the beds were created, of course, I had to dig up virgin soil and sort out the ground with my hands, pulling out the stems and roots of weeds. However, along with the shoots of dill and lettuce, out of nowhere, new uncultivated comrades appeared. She walked, pulled them, persuaded them not to grow and not to interfere. They did not obey and overtook the planted plants in growth.

Beds only for their own

Now I plant almost everything on black spunbond - a covering material that both breathes and passes water. This is how my tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkins, physalis grow. Organized drip irrigation for pets. Cucumbers settled in a barrel. All this requires initial financial and labor investments, but then - beauty!

Lettuce, basil, cilantro, mint, lemon balm and other herbs I love grow just on the ground, without spunbond. I plant everything in rows. When the green is still small, I don’t pull the weeds, but cut them with a chopper or flat cutter and leave them in the garden. This is a kind of mulching.

I lay out cardboard in the aisle and don’t fight with the grass anymore. It grows, of course, but it helps to keep moisture in the ground. By the way, last dry summer, when there was little rain, and there was also little water in the well, the grass helped and protected the beds from drought.

As a result, my garden looks like this: everything grows luxuriantly in the beds, but the grass around it also grows luxuriantly. In general, solid greens. Experienced Inessa Alekseevna, my neighbor, groans every year: well, is it really possible! And calls my garden "dirty" and "wrong".

And I like it. And the harvest, by the way, is not bad with minimal labor.

Svetlana Alekhina Tver region

Heart to heart with the weeds

Weeds can speak, but in their own language. Let's try to understand them.

If a chic clover has grown, this indicates a lack of nitrogen in the soil and an excess of potassium. If a powerful and high quinoa - on the contrary, there is a lot of nitrogen. Purslane and mustard are fattening - an excess of phosphorus.

If dandelions or wild pansies appear on the lawn, then this is also a sign - acidic soil. Wild sorrel, field horsetail, foxtail warn about waterlogging.

Mullein, wormwood, wild carrots, wild parsnips speak of the depletion of the soil; chicory and bindweed will tell you that the earth is too dense and heavy. "Sweet" alkaline soil is preferred by burnet, bed bug, bodyak. On very fertile soil, mokrichnik, white gauze, and milkwort grow.

By the way, if nettles grow in lush thickets on the site, this is a reason to rejoice. So the land is good and fertile. And in aromatic herbs growing next to nettles, the content of essential oils increases. In addition, slugs avoid nettles, but love tomatoes.

5 reasons why weeds should not be loved, but respected

Do not pull out a dandelion if it grows next to cucumbers - they "respect" each other, dandelion accelerates the ripening of cucumbers. Several yarrow plants in the garden create a favorable aura for cultivated plants. Cornflower and chamomile in small quantities stimulate the growth of cereals.

Weeds are a treasure trove of trace elements. For example, chamomile and yarrow accumulate sulfur, wood lice - zinc, white clover - molybdenum.

Weeds are a defense against pests and diseases. Almost universal in this sense is wormwood. Let it grow!

Sow thistle in moderation only helps pumpkin, cucumbers, watermelons, melons, onions, tomatoes and corn. It creates a shadow, and with the help of its root system brings useful substances to the surface of the soil from its deep layers.

The classic weed - bindweed, which is popularly called "birch", - acts as a mulch, covering the soil from the sun and wind, and prevents its destruction.

Legume weeds - alfalfa, sweet clover - successfully help to restrain the growth of annual weeds such as ragweed, quinoa, gauze and the like. But it is they who are so unnerving gardeners.

I. Ponkratova Tikhvin

4 Ways to Beat Weeds

Don't sow yourself

It seems to me that very often we sow weeds with our own hands. For example, we use fresh manure, but it contains a huge amount of seeds of the most malicious weeds. I put only rotted manure and ripened compost on the beds.

Shave

In all plants, the root and aboveground parts are interconnected. As soon as the weeds begin to sprout, I carefully cut them off (mind you, I don’t pull them out). To grow a new shoot, the weed will need new forces, they will have to be taken away from the roots. If weeds are shaved regularly, the plant will soon weaken and die. And I lay the cut stems between the beds of cultivated plants. Here's your mulch.

displace

Don't give weeds space. Notice they grow where the ground is bare. Therefore, between cultivated plants I plant annual marigolds, calendula. At the same time, pests will be scared away. And when the crop is harvested, then I immediately sow the free space with green manure.

Zucchini vs wheatgrass

Weeds have enemies among cultivated plants. For example, wheatgrass does not tolerate zucchini. The secret is simple - zucchini and pumpkins have very large leaves, they block the light, and the weed dies. Therefore, where there is especially a lot of couch grass, I plant zucchini or pumpkin thickly. The first year will not help, nothing, the next will definitely work.

Irina SOBOLEVA. Krasnodar city

Weeds clog beds, are a haven for the reproduction of pests and diseases, these are the first competitors of cultivated plants for water and nutrients. It is clear that they need to be dealt with, but how?

1. Mechanical

In addition to standard weeding, in a heavily overgrown area in autumn and spring, they walk along the ground with a shovel, pitchfork or cultivator and, of course, each root is manually selected.

2. Chemical

Where cultivated plants grow, selective herbicides are used: Lontrel-zood (applied after harvest), Lazurite (ideal for processing potatoes, provides protection for up to 60 days), etc. In free areas, continuous herbicides are used: Tornado ( for all types of weeds), Tornado BAU (for processing small areas), Agrokiller (herbicide of an increased hazard class, destroys cow parsnip, wheatgrass, wild oats, horsetail, bindweed and even shrubs).

3. Biological

The area free from vegetables is covered with some dense opaque material (dark film, agrofibre, roofing material, boards, cardboard, etc.), which prevents light from penetrating to the soil surface - this prevents weeds from growing. There are also disadvantages: for example, roofing material releases harmful resins into the soil, and slugs are bred under the boards.

4. Substitute

To leave as little space as possible for weeds, compact plantings are made or the area is sown with green manure.

5. Exhausting

Periodically cut off all the leaves and shoots of weeds near the surface of the soil, waiting for the death of the underground part. However, it will take a very long time to wait, the weeds will grow again and again, fully recovering, but it is possible to reduce their harmful effect in this way. And finally, there is nothing better than prevention. In order not to bring weeds to the site, do not use fresh manure, do not mulch the soil with mowed dry grass with seeds, do not lay mature grasses with seeds in the compost heap, mow the grass around the site in time, preventing it from forming flying seeds -

Nikolai KHROMOV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences

Hogweed: fight

Let us dwell on the fight against hogweed in a separate line

This invader came down to us from the mountains of the Caucasus, Transcaucasia and Turkey. Successfully settled down in the northwestern and central regions of Russia. In the countries of Northern and Eastern Europe, the fight against hogweed has been declared a matter of national importance, and special programs have been adopted here. And we sounded the alarm too!

How the cow parsnip was allowed into the garden

Why not a silage plant? Such a giant, a lot of green mass, contains sugars that promote lactic acid fermentation. And very nutritious, including protein content. A real delicacy for cows! But later it turned out that when animals were fed cow parsnip, their milk became bitter, cows had problems with reproduction. Silo, but not that one. Then came the crisis of the late 1990s, huge tracts of agricultural land were abandoned, and the cow parsnip broke free. First, he filled the no-man's land, then entered the villages, playgrounds and roadsides. And now stands at the country gates.

plant monster

Sosnovsky's hogweed is a very large plant, reaching a height of 3-5 meters. Propagated exclusively by seeds. One plant can form several umbrellas and produce more than 20 thousand seeds. seeds

spread over a distance of up to 2 kilometers. Their viability lasts up to 5 years, and they do not sprout all at once, but "as needed."

How to fight?

Spray with herbicides. But remember: not all strong herbicides are approved for use in personal subsidiary plots. (Be sure to read the instructions for the drugs and do not exceed the dosage!)

In order for the hogweed to be completely destroyed, the herbicide must go to the root. That is, to go all the way: through the mouths and further along the vessels to the very root. If you apply an overestimated dose of the herbicide, then the ground part of the plant will burn out quickly, but the herbicide will not have time to reach the root. The dormant buds will wake up, growth will resume, and the cow parsnip will again be more alive than all the living. Don't expect instant results from this method. It is possible to judge the effectiveness only a month after spraying.

• For those who are afraid of "chemistry", I will advise agrotechnical and mechanical methods. If the hogweed has settled on the site, then regularly dig up the soil in this place with a turnover of the layer to a depth of at least 5 cm. This will not allow the seeds that have got there to rise. Individual plants can be dug up, but always with a growth point, that is, to a depth of 15-20 cm.
• Mulch the soil with dark covering materials (geo-textile, black film or spun-bond), sprinkle with earth on top and sow perennial grasses, for example, for a lawn.
• Often I see thickets of hogweed behind country fences. You won’t go digging here, there are enough beds of your own. In this case, do not be lazy and, starting in May, mow down the entire green mass of hogweed. The main thing - do not let the seeds start!

Carefully!

It is possible to work with Sosnovsky's cow parsnip only in protective clothing and gloves. If the juice comes into contact with the skin, immediately wash it with soap and water and apply a light-tight bandage. This is a must: toxic substances are activated precisely under the influence of sunlight! They can cause severe and long-term healing burns of the 1st-3rd degree. Evaporation of essential oils is also harmful to humans. In general, hogweed is not our friend, we need to try with all our might to drive this plant out of the site and as far as possible!

Pity your back in weed control

Here it is, happiness

My plot is small, but it so happened that in different parts of it there is different soil, which is why there is such a variety of weeds that I had to get acquainted with and measure my strength. The most problematic was the area with loach, which is also popularly called birch. Yes, this is a real headache, but, as they say, the devil is not as terrible as he is painted. The main thing is not to panic and not give up. After all, we are summer residents, and this is a high rank.

In general, I gathered my strength and declared war on this invader in the next planting season. Started in early spring. Armed with a flat cutter, I cut off the heads of all the sprouts that had broken through into the light. It took me no more than an hour to clear four acres in this way. A week later, I repeated the bypass of my site and again put the flat cutter into action. With the same interval, I performed this operation a couple more times, and this was the end of my main struggle with the malicious loach. And he obeyed!

After that, dealing with the rest of the weeds was a matter of technique, I was no longer afraid of anything.

And it turned out to be very simple to achieve this: I “driven” the vegetables into narrow beds and I pass through the aisles with a weeder or the same flat cutter. The main thing is to carry out this work methodically and at the right time.

And how much time was lost before when I crawled along the ground, furiously tearing and picking out the grass. What delight seized me when I saw that my site was ennobled! I have never experienced such pleasure from working on a weed-free land before.

Perhaps, in school years at the lessons of botany, no one could have imagined that knowledge about plants would ever be useful to anyone. And, regardless of whether we remember something or not, the laws of nature work. Let's remember together once again simple truths.

Perennial weeds (such as wheatgrass, sow thistle, or the same bindweed-birch) most often have branched rhizomes underground. When the spring sun warms the earth, the buds on their roots wake up and young shoots begin to appear, which, making their way underground, look out into the light of day and even faster after that begin to gain strength. The roots during this time are slightly depleted, but the opened young leaves themselves begin to synthesize nutrients.

Don't let your head up

Have you noticed that after germination, the weeds seem to freeze for some time and grow very slowly? This is exactly what happens because the young shoots replenish the substances used up from the rhizome. At this time, we relax and lose vigilance, because the weeds are still negligible and do not interfere with our plantings. So why raise the alarm? We’ll still have time to deal with them, but at the dacha, there’s already a lot of things to do. And we are blissful in vain. It is at this time that the roots are gaining strength for reproduction, for new shoots.

If, immediately when a weed appears on the surface of the earth, its top is cut off, then this shoot will no longer open the leaves and will not feed the rhizome.

It is not at all necessary to tear it out with a long root. It grows with an apical bud - a point of growth. After five to seven days, a new generation of weed shoots appears from the ground, and new buds will wake up on the underground rhizome. And here again I do not allow the leaves to open and feed the rhizome - again I cut off the shoots that have appeared. In a week, the third generation will already come out of the ground. I destroy it too.

All these "births" occur due to the nutrients of the rhizome, but since I did not allow the seedlings to feed it, it was depleted to such an extent that it is unlikely that it will have enough strength for the fourth generation. So it will die underground from dystrophy. And if he suddenly has some strength left, then for the fourth time I will cut off the tops of the shoots. Now, for sure, the weeds will not see the white light. And with all this, I have never even leaned over the beds for weeding. But before I was sure that the more I work my back, the better the result I will get. Therefore, I will ask all dear and dear summer residents to leave the choppers alone. Stop waving them, weeds are not afraid of them. Whether it's a weeder or a flat cutter - you work without much effort, with a straight back, with only one hand, and not with the whole body.

Of course, I will not idealize my methodology. Getting rid of weeds once and for all is unlikely to succeed - we cannot prohibit the wind from blowing or birds flying over our garden and spreading seeds (and abandoned neighboring plots also contribute to the reproduction of weeds).

But this method of struggle is the most effective and least time-consuming. Any garden worker can cope: both small and old. Even abandoned, sod-covered areas can easily be put in order, and it is advisable to start in the spring, until the roots have gained strength.

Now weeding has become a pleasant job for me. Once a week I go through the site with a flat cutter, even if there is no apparent reason for this. I often hear through the fence: “Why don’t you have weeds? When did you manage to pull everything out? Yes, weeds simply do not like me and leave me for neighboring gardens, where the owners are more favorable to them.

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Mechanical removal of weeds in the garden is a very laborious work and, moreover, often not very effective. After some time, plants reappear in the beds, depriving garden crops of the nutrients they need so much. The thing is that even with the most thorough weeding, small roots of weeds still remain in the ground, giving growth. There is only one way out of this situation - to use a special chemical preparation designed to completely destroy unwanted plants in the garden or in the yard. Such a weed killer is called a herbicide and is sold in any specialized store. There are also less effective, but also less harmful to the soil and cultivated plants "folk" analogue of such drugs - ordinary vinegar with salt.

Classification

Currently, only two types of herbicides are used to control garden weeds:

• Selective. Such agents act selectively on one or another type of weed.
• Non-selective. Herbicides of this variety, when applied to the ground, destroy all vegetation without exception.

Herbicides also differ according to the principle of action. A weed killer can penetrate into plant tissues (instructions for the use of herbicides will be discussed by us a little lower) can:

• through the leaves to the root;
• through leaves and soil to all parts of the plant, including seeds;
• only through soil.

Recently, preparations have also been developed that destroy moss and saturate the soil with useful micro and macro elements.

In addition, herbicides can be contact or systemic. The first type of drugs has a detrimental effect on weeds only in direct contact with their parts. Systemic herbicides after contact with the leaves penetrate the tissues and spread through them, destroying all parts of the weed, including roots and stems.

A "folk" remedy, vinegar with salt, also classified as a herbicide, can be classified as a systemic general action.

Selective drugs

There are simply a huge number of herbicides of this type that do an excellent job of controlling weeds. Very often summer residents use for cleaning the beds, for example, "Zenkor", "Foxtrot", "Eraser", "Puma Super", "Lazurit".

Using any weed control agent on the site, it is mandatory to follow the dosage indicated in the instructions for use. At too high concentrations, these drugs can have a negative effect on both the soil and cultivated plants.

Principle of operation and use

Selective herbicides contain special substances that inhibit the development of plant tissues and cause their death. These can be, for example, ACC inhibitors. These substances prevent the formation of fat in the tissues of plants, as a result of which their cells stop growing. Also, herbicides of selective action may contain various kinds of elements that mimic plant hormones.

Any weed killer, of course, should be used correctly. Most often, the treatment of areas with herbicides is carried out by spraying. The solution can be poured, for example, into a spray bottle. It is desirable to process weeds in calm weather, trying not to get on cultivated plants. The time of spraying should be chosen so that within 24 days after it there was no rain.

Selective herbicide "2,4-D"

This drug is considered the most effective means of selective action. It has been used for weed control since the 1940s. To date, more than 22 herbicides have been created on the basis of "2,4-D", which are successfully used in agriculture. The main active ingredient of this drug is 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid. It is a white crystalline substance. The herbicide "2,4-D" is moderately toxic and belongs to the second hazard class.

The growth of weeds after treatment with this drug stops after a few hours. The herbicide "2.4-D" is produced in the form of 50 and 61 percent solutions, as well as 70 and 72 percent concentrates. It is mainly used to control annual dicotyledonous weeds in wheat and corn crops.

The best herbicides for the garden

For the treatment of beds with tomatoes, peas and potato plots, a preparation such as Agritox is often used. This herbicide has a detrimental effect on weeds such as lamb, nettle, shepherd's purse, cornflower, dandelion, wild radish, arrowheads, etc.

Cucumbers and other cucurbits can be sprayed with Halosulfuron or Bensulide. For carrots, Linuron is perfect. Herbicide "Lazurit" is used for all types of vegetable crops.

Best lawn weed killer

The most popular lawn treatment agent is the selective herbicide Lontrel-300D. This tool is very effective in the fight against both annual and perennial weeds. With its use, you can clean the lawn from such types of herbs as sow thistle, Tatar Molokan, mountaineer, cornflower, coltsfoot, legumes, chamomile and, most importantly, persistent dandelion. At the same time, it does absolutely no harm to lawn cereal grasses.

General medicines

Herbicides of this variety are usually used not for spraying beds, but for killing weeds in the yard, along the edges of the lawn, along paths, etc. You can also treat the land with these preparations in early spring before planting cultivated plants. They are completely removed from the soil within about a month. Ferrous sulfate is the main active ingredient in general herbicides.

Treatment with non-selective preparations is also usually carried out by spraying. Some herbicides, both selective and general, are available in dry form. They are either diluted with water or scattered over the site (on wet ground).

Herbicide "Roundal"

This is the most popular continuous weed control today. It spreads through plant tissues within 5-10 days. Around the same time, the first signs of damage appear on their leaves. Weeds die about a month after spraying. It is best to treat plants with Roundal in sunny, warm weather. There is no need to mow the grass. The greater the vegetative activity of the weed, the faster the Roundal will spread through its parts, and the faster it will die.

For cultivating the land before planting garden crops (vegetables, potatoes, melons, oilseeds, etc.), as well as for the complete destruction of grass along paths, hedges or in the yard, the Roundal preparation is diluted in a proportion of 80-120 ml per liter of water. Spraying or watering is carried out at the rate of 5 liters per 100 m2.

Herbicide "Tornado"

This is another popular drug, also often used by summer residents. This herbicide is usually sold in vials. The manufacturer recommends spraying with a product diluted in three liters of water. However, experienced summer residents advise using the Tornado herbicide a little differently. In order not to catch other plants, the drug should be diluted in a bucket. At the same time, the treatment is carried out with the help of a broom, gently “lubricating” the weeds with a solution.

Best remedy: Vinegar with salt

Of course, purchased herbicides are effective and easy to use. However, these funds are usually quite expensive. In addition, most summer residents prefer to use any chemistry in the garden as rarely as possible.

Therefore, many owners of suburban areas are trying to replace purchased herbicides with "folk" remedies. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safest. For spraying the beds, its 5% solution is most often used.

To process the yard, you can use a more effective "folk" remedy for weeds - vinegar and salt. Prepare such a herbicide as follows:

• 3.8 liters of vinegar 9% are poured into a bucket;
• half a glass of salt is poured there;
• a little liquid soap is added;
• everything is thoroughly mixed.

A weed killer with vinegar is used in the same way as chemical preparations. Spraying should be carried out as carefully as possible. It is impossible to allow drops from the spray gun to fall on cultivated plants. The best time for processing is early morning.

Usually, white vinegar is used to kill weeds. You can also take apple. Summer residents who decide to use this "folk" herbicide should be aware that in large quantities it is able to leach nutrients from the ground.

"Folk" remedy for weeds: reviews

Many summer residents use vinegar to remove unwanted plants in yards and beds. However, reviews about it on the network are quite contradictory. What do they say about this weed killer? Vinegar with salt in no way has any harmful effect on the chemical composition of the soil, since it decomposes very quickly into carbon dioxide and water, some say. According to others, the splitting process takes a long time, and the use of vinegar can negatively affect plant yields. But in any case, maximum care should be taken when processing. Do not pour vinegar on the ground. Processing is carried out strictly on the leaves.

Of course, vinegar does some damage to the soil in any case. However, the same "Tornado" and "Randal" can hardly be considered harmless either. They are much more expensive, but the effect of their use is almost the same.

What is the best remedy for weeds - to decide, of course, the owners of the summer cottage themselves. Someone prefers purchased chemicals, and someone, perhaps, prefers "folk" vinegar. In any case, the use of herbicides helps to save time on mechanical weeding. However, of course, such compositions should be used "wisely". Otherwise, along with weeds, you can “free” the garden from cultivated plants.

Weed grass and weeds of various types annually cause summer residents a lot of trouble. However, this problem did not arise yesterday - our ancestors faced and successfully coped with it. Therefore, their invaluable experience is of great importance in modern agriculture.

Weed types

In order for the fight to be successful, you need to know your opponent well. So, the most widespread in Russia are such weeds as:

• Creeping wheatgrass. Due to straight and long leaves, it has an external resemblance to ordinary grass. It has a powerful root system, thanks to which it grows quickly and occupies vast areas.
• Field bindweed. A strong perennial that can tangle up to 2 square meters of stems. Especially dangerous for small fruit and berry bushes. It has a thin curly stem, dark arrow-shaped leaves and a pale pinkish gramophone-like inflorescence.
  
• Purslane. A very common weed, widely used in cooking and pharmaceuticals. If not weeded in time, it can fill huge areas of vegetable beds.
  
• Zvezdchatka (aka wood lice). The main enemy of carrots, very resistant to a sharp drop in temperature. Barely noticeable in the initial stages of growth, it quickly turns into a dense green carpet.
  
• An upside-down shiritsa. An extremely prolific pest with great viability and an enormous reproduction rate. It is characterized by an elongated stem, egg-shaped leaf plates and a dense ovary resembling a thick ear.
  
• Ezhovnik. A plant more popularly known as "chicken millet". It affects beet and carrot beds, as well as sunflower fields. Especially dangerous in very rainy years. Its long shoots, crowned with a panicle inflorescence, reach a length of 1 to 1.5 meters.
  
• Dandelion. Familiar from childhood, a bright flower that reproduces by means of seeds carried by the wind in special umbrellas. Clogs lawns, flower beds and other plantings.
• Bluegrass. This annual is easily confused with ordinary grass. However, it is very difficult to remove and spoils the appearance of green spaces.
• Plantain. A traditional wound healing agent, very unpretentious even to the most severe environmental conditions. It can grow even on well-trodden paths, because it accumulates moisture inside itself.
• Creeping buttercup. A fairly common pest that prefers damp and shaded areas. The main distinguishing feature is the variegated yellow flowers, carelessly scattered over the small-leaved green massif.
• White clover. A hard-to-remove fodder crop, the appearance of which indicates a nitrogen deficiency.

Traditional and mechanical methods of weed control

Experienced gardeners and gardeners annually face the problem of weeds in their backyard. However, the recommendations of professional agronomists and the advice of experts in the field of breeding allow you to more confidently solve most seasonal issues.

Among the most effective methods of dealing with various types of horticultural pests, it is necessary to highlight such effective methods as:

• Digging, loosening and weeding the soil. This measure is designed to completely clear a certain area from the remnants of rhizomes and weed seeds. The main thing is to perform these procedures on a regular basis.
• Mowing. To weaken the root system of loaches, dandelions, buttercups and other harmful plants, it is necessary to destroy the green mass involved in their most important life process - photosynthesis.

• Mulching. This event involves covering the gaps between plants with large, medium or small particles. For example, peat flour, sawdust, shavings, etc. Mulch is designed to isolate weeds from sunlight and thus limit their growth and development.
• Substrate improvement. The most effective way to combat weeds is to completely remove the top fertile soil layer containing roots and seeds. In its place, as a rule, fresh soil or a layer of mineral-organic fertilizers is laid.
• Chemical processing. In particularly difficult cases, herbicides cannot be dispensed with. Their introduction makes the land unattractive and uncomfortable for the development of garden pests.
  According to numerous surveys of summer residents, the fastest and most effective concentrates are recognized:

1. Hurricane;
2. Tornado;
3. Prima;
4. Zencor;
5. Agrokiller.

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Folk remedies against weeds

Our ancestors knew a lot of household and economic tricks that allowed them to achieve high results in all spheres of life.

When it comes to the comprehensive and effective destruction of various varieties of weeds in a garden or vegetable garden, time-tested tools will come to the rescue, in particular:

• Salt. The best protection against wheatgrass. Just a few pinches are enough to salt the soil around the weed to stop its reproduction.
• Vinegar. The most popular solution has the following composition: 5 cups of 6% concentrate per 2 liters of water.

They need to treat the leaves and stems of weeds to prevent their further development and seed formation.

• Alcohol. Americans have long and very successfully used this method. All you need is to dilute pure medical alcohol with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and spray it with the gaps between the beds.
• Soap. You should not think that ordinary laundry or toilet soap is suitable for cleaning a personal plot from pests. It must be prepared independently, based on white vinegar, table salt and liquid detergent. The resulting mixture must be poured under the roots of the weeds.
• Soda. Since soda is a strong alkali, it is very often used to destroy harmful biological material. As a rule, highly concentrated solutions are used.

Despite the fact that in nature there are a huge number of types of weeds, they can and should be fought. Moreover, to date, many effective methods have been invented, based both on scientific achievements and on centuries-old folk experience.

Perhaps nothing spoils the life of a gardener like the ubiquitous weeds. They grow in cultivated areas cheerfully and amicably, sometimes at times overtaking the growth of lovingly planted crops. Not to mention that it's just plain ugly, weeds eat them up, shade them, and attract pests. If you do not fight the "freeloaders", you can be left without a harvest. For this, there are both general and individual methods, depending on the type, and folk recipes, and modern developments in the agricultural industry.

First of all, it should be understood that in order to solve the weed problem once and for all, it is necessary that weed seeds are not brought by the wind, and the land is completely unsuitable for their growth. It is clear that these are impossible conditions. However, it is possible to radically remove weeds from the site, which will practically nullify such a laborious and unenviably regular process as weeding.

Herbicide treatment

This is the fastest and most effective method, which gives excellent results, but has contraindications and requires great care. The choice of the drug depends on the type of uncontrolled growing plants.

The agrotechnical market offers different types of pesticides, which are divided into several groups according to various characteristics.

By the ability to move through plant tissues

Systemic

When it hits some part of the plant, the destructive substance quickly spreads both throughout its aerial part and into the root system, which causes its complete death, including every leaf and every root.

Contact

In this case, the effect of the drug is carried out only in the place of its direct contact.

According to the spectrum of action

continuous action

In this case, the drug destroys everything that is within its radius of impact, including cultural plantings and weeds. The use of such preparations is justified in the case when it is necessary to obtain a site completely cleared of vegetation, on which there will not be a single blade of grass.

An example is "Tornado", "Antiburyan". They are useful when laying paths, laying paving slabs on a site, laying a reservoir, preparing land for a lawn.

electoral action

They are able to get rid of uninvited plants without harming the planted ones. Effective for maintaining an even, manicured lawn. The agent and its concentration can be selected individually depending on the type of weeds, their strength and quantity.

The most popular are Hurricane, Roundup, Agrokiller, Fuzilad, Lazurit, Lintur. The drug "Tornado" can also be used as an electoral agent, but it should be remembered that, along with the "Antikiller" agent, it is more powerful than others. They are recommended for use in the fight against the most stubborn and strong weeds, such as horsetail, wheatgrass, all types of weeds, hogweed, plantain, dandelion.

With the help of the drug "Agrokiller" you can even cope with thickets of shrubs and trees to clear a neglected area.

The mechanism of action can also be different (including complex) - the destruction of cell membranes, inhibition of the synthesis of fats, photosynthesis, the formation of amino acids, and so on. Herbicidal preparations are produced in the form of emulsions, diluents, suspensions, powders, granules.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of this method are obvious:

• saving time and effort;
• effective control of even the most difficult-to-remove weeds;
• the ability to quickly process large areas;
• the availability of the choice of a specific preparation depending on the type of weeds, neglect of the site, environmental conditions;
• after 2 weeks, nothing remains of them in the soil, substances do not accumulate.

Disadvantages of chemical warfare:

• Preparations of continuous action, which are the most effective, destroy not only unnecessary, but also cultural crops, and therefore require special care.
• These agents are useless against seeds, therefore, plants that are not destroyed before the moment of maturation and the stage of reproduction have time to become a source of new problems in the future. You should also be aware that seeds can lie in the ground for several years, and then sprout.
• Toxicity. It is necessary to work with these means in protective equipment and in compliance with all prescribed safety rules.

If it is necessary to repeat the treatment, it is better to alternate the preparations.

What do the experts say?

With regard to this group of chemicals, the opinion of experts is as follows. They acknowledge their effectiveness, but warn against getting too carried away with these remedies. They consider the use in large areas justified (for example, potato or corn fields).

But for small plots, especially with fruit-bearing trees and berry bushes present on them, in this case it is better to look for an alternative in the form of other agricultural methods.

Do not dig up the ground before applying herbicides! Dense soil prevents the spread of the poison in depth, to the roots of fruit trees, berry bushes and other crops with a well-developed root system.

Mechanical struggle for purity

Mechanical work with weeds means their manual or mechanized weeding. The method is long, very laborious and familiar to all gardeners. The success of such a struggle depends on the type of herbs. If, for example, a garden purslane with its poorly developed roots can be pulled out easily and without a trace, then the bodyac or wheatgrass, with all diligence, cannot be completely destroyed by hand.

Resorting to mowing the ground part without a rhizome can only have an effect if the procedure is carried out at least three times in a short time. Then the root will dry out and stop trying to sprout, but this does not apply to all weeds.

Rules for successful manual weeding:

• You can’t wait until the root gets stronger and the plant comes into force; you need to remove the “freeloaders” as quickly as possible.
• It is better to use a pitchfork, not a shovel - a dissected root may not only not die, but also give several new shoots.
• The better the roots are removed, the less likely it is to relapse.
• It is necessary to start removing herbs before they are inseminated.
• After rain, weeding is easier than after watering.
• There are days in the lunar calendar (depending on the passage of the Moon in the zodiac circle) when it is better not to touch the weeds, otherwise they will grow with renewed vigor, and the work will be useless.

Mulching

Mulching is the covering of the fertile soil layer with any materials that do not transmit light. It can be cardboard, sawdust, agrofibre, boards and much more that can stop the process of photosynthesis, and hence life in general, in unnecessary plants. This method is detrimental not only to the aerial part, but also to the roots.

Additional advantages include the accuracy of the appearance of the beds, especially if industrial special materials are used. Its disadvantage, however, is the duration of the process. Having covered the bed with a film in the spring, it will be possible to remove it only in the fall.
For horticultural crops, cuts are made in the material.

Under roofing felt and film, the soil can overheat, so organic matter is considered the best mulch - sawdust, tree bark, cardboard, needles, mowed grass, etc.

Folk ways and means

Before the invention of chemical compounds and the appearance of a black film beloved by summer residents, weeds were fought not only with hands and hoes, but also with the help of improvised means. Many of these methods are successfully used today.

Salt

Available, cheap and very effective. You can use a saline solution or sprinkle the earth with ordinary coarse salt at the rate of 1.5 kg per 1 sq.m. - natural precipitation will do its job. The disadvantage of the method is the unsuitability of the cultivated land for further farming, but, for example, to combat the overgrowth of paths or prepare a site for artificial turf, this is a very simple and effective method.

Soda

The strong alkaline reaction of a strong soda solution works well against plant growth. To enhance the effect, you can add grated laundry soap. But it should be remembered that in this case, it will not be possible to grow something useful on this soil for a long time.

Alcohol

A method attributed to the Americans. It is not cheap enough (it requires dilution of medical alcohol in a ratio of 1:10), but it has an important advantage - it does not kill crops.

Only row-spacings are subject to processing, 11 liters will be required for 2-2.5 acres. The effect is maintained for the current year.

It is interesting! The use of strong alcohol against weeds has a long history in America. A month before sowing, the land here was treated with ethyl alcohol. This caused a rapid growth of weeds, which were easily weeded out even before sowing. The method was also mastered in Russia, where 1 liter of vodka was simply poured into a bucket of water!

Vinegar

• There are several recipes for use.
• 5 st. 6% vinegar is diluted in 2 liters of water (volume per 2 acres).
• 9% vinegar + lemon juice in a ratio of 3:1.
• Pour 2 tablespoons into 1 liter of water. salt and 5 tbsp. table vinegar, use hot. This recipe is considered the most reliable.

Homemade herbicide soap

You will need:

• 1 liter of vinegar (the best strength is 15-20%)
• 150g coarse salt;
• 1 bar of laundry soap (100g), grated.

All mix, dilute and shake until smooth. Treat problem areas, for a sustainable effect, repeated procedures are required with a break of a week.

Burn the grass with fire!

A rather exotic way, when pest plants are passed through the sliding flame of a blowtorch even before the seedlings of the planted seeds. It is important to observe two conditions - to do this before the first shoots and not to linger for a long time in one place. After the procedure, abundant watering is carried out.

Don't let empty spaces

A holy place, as the saying goes, is never empty. This also applies to the garden to the fullest. The garden bed has been freed from onions - plant greens, radishes or any green manure. Permanently empty places are well saved by ground covers. Both beautiful and safe.

Read more in our article: Siderata - appointment, which is better, tips on agricultural technology

It is better to cut off the top of the weed than to dig deeper and cut the root. In the first case, it will weaken, in the second it will give the opposite effect. If you touch the root, then remove it entirely.

Landing compaction

In order not to leave room for weeds, some crops can be planted more densely. An option for the experienced, since thickened plantings can ruin not only weeds, but everything planted. Such seedlings are often affected by rot.

fences

If it was possible to clear a certain area of ​​weeds, it can be isolated with a dug groove or an old slate dug 20-25 cm into the ground.

We pay attention to the aisles

After weeding a bed, many often ignore the aisles, where the grass is trampled underfoot. However, this does not prevent them from developing in the ground and from time to time “raising their heads” to sow seeds. These places can be covered with mulch, covered with gravel, treated as described above.

Freezing

Dig the beds deeper than usual in the winter and do not level the ground. Freezing before snowfall will kill more weed seeds than usual.

Hoping that weeds will leave your garden and your work alone once and for all is still not worth it. There are especially stubborn plants, which are almost impossible to order the way to your site (quinoa, couch grass, cow parsnip, plantain, sow thistle, etc.). But the combination of mechanical and chemical methods of dealing with them can give an excellent effect, and you will be able to put your allotment in order with much less time and physical costs.

Weeding beds and flower beds is not the most exciting activity. But even such a boring job is easy to cope with if you find the right approach to business.

There are almost 10 ways to get rid of weeds on the site. These measures will help make life easier for summer residents and protect plantings from aggressive "neighbors".

1. Non-moldboard method of soil treatment

Weed control should begin at the stage of preparing the beds for planting. Supporters of organic farming today are actively using the non-moldboard method of soil cultivation. With him, the earth is dug up only once - at the time of primary processing. The rest of the time, the soil is only loosened.

Loosening instead of digging is the basis of a non-moldboard method of soil cultivation

What is good about this method? With it, weed seeds are not brought to the surface and therefore do not germinate. At the same time, seeds brought to the site by the wind are not capable of causing serious harm to cultivated plants.

So that the soil in the beds does not settle, low fences made of boards, bricks or tiles can be installed around them. Paths can be sprinkled with mulch (gravel, bark, wood chips) - then weeds will not be able to grow even here.

By the same principle, it is possible to protect ground cover plants that grow in rockeries or on alpine hills. It is necessary to weed the flower garden, cover the soil with a film or cardboard, and pour a layer of earth on top in which the plants will be planted. Further, the space between the cultures must be filled with gravel, expanded clay, wood chips or bark.

2. Mulching

One of the most reliable ways to get rid of weeds is mulching. A layer of mulch deprives the weed seeds of the light they need to germinate.

A variety of materials can be used as mulch: humus, compost, peat, pine bark, straw, hay, grass clippings, fallen leaves, nut and egg shells, paper. However, they must be chosen wisely. For example, if you use peat or pine bark as mulch, they can increase soil acidity. And not every plant can grow in such soil.

Bark mulch will keep weeds out but can acidify the soil

In addition, along with the mulch, it is easy to bring weeds into the garden or flower garden. This can happen if you use humus, peat or immature compost. So take note that weed flowers should never be put in compost.

How to test compost for weed seeds? In the spring, water the compost heap (or humus) with water and cover with a film. If after a couple of days shoots appear on it, it means that it is clogged. You can’t use such compost as mulch - you need to let it ripen. EM drugs can help with this.

From inorganic materials, black geotextiles can be used as mulch. Most often it is used when planting strawberries (garden strawberries). But you can also use it for mulching other crops that like to grow in warmth.

The black film not only suppresses the growth of weeds, but also warms up the soil.

3. Use of herbicides

If you can’t cope with weeds on your own, you will have to resort to the help of chemicals that can destroy aggressive weeds. Many of these products are broad-spectrum herbicides - aimed at the destruction of many types of weeds. One of the proven drugs is Roundup.

When using any of the herbicides in your area, remember that this is a chemical and must be handled with great care. Take precautions and follow the instructions on the package.

4. EM drugs

If you do not want to use chemicals, you can try to get rid of weeds with bacteriological preparations. Weeds should be cut with a sharp chopper, and then the area should be watered with a solution of the EM preparation. For these purposes, for example, Baikal EM-1 is suitable. The product must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:100. As a result, the root system of weeds remaining in the soil will be quickly processed.

Such processing of the site is best done in the autumn, when the beds are free from the main plantings.

5. Mixed fit

Mixed cultivation of vegetables, berries and herbs on the same bed (flower bed) will help to significantly reduce the number of weeds. This is to ensure that secondary plants perform the function of mulch, leaving no room for weeds to grow.

This method of planting is great for flower beds, where spring bulbs or annuals can be planted around insufficiently grown perennials.

Mixed landings are very unusual, but practical

6. Seeding green manure or re-seeding vegetables

Weeds appear first of all on empty land, so it is important to ensure that the beds are always occupied with plantings. Mulch helps to close gaps in the garden. But its use is not always justified, especially if you have several free beds at once after harvesting early greens or onions.

In this case, you should think about sowing green manure or fast-growing vegetables. Don't leave the beds empty. In addition, the denser the crops grow, the fewer weeds will be able to "squeeze" between them. But keep in mind that a dense planting should not prevent the vegetables themselves from developing normally.

Oil radish - one of the green manure that will protect the garden from weeds

7. Use of vodka

This method was invented in America. Its essence lies in the cultivation of the soil with a 6% solution of ethyl alcohol. We use vodka for these purposes, from which a solution is prepared, diluting 150 g in 1 liter of water. Processing is carried out one month before the start of the sowing campaign.

How does this procedure help? Alcohol promotes the speedy germination of weed seeds. Thus, the weeds sprout together, after which they can be weeded out in one fell swoop. Summer residents who have tried this method claim that the effect after such a struggle persists for several seasons.

8. Tillage with fire

Another non-standard way to eliminate weeds involves the use of a blowtorch. It can be resorted to in beds with tight crops (dill, parsley, carrots). As a rule, weeds in this case appear earlier than plants planted intentionally.

The first shoots of weeds are easily destroyed if the surface of the soil is treated with a gliding flame. At the same time, holding a lit lamp, the main thing is not to linger in one place, but to move all the time so as not to accidentally "burn" the seeds of vegetables in the soil. After this treatment, the land is recommended to be cooled. To do this, it should be watered.

9. Shearing weeds

Any plant, if it is deprived of leaves and shoots, spends quite a lot of energy on restoration. Therefore, if you periodically cut off the aerial part of the weeds (near the soil itself), they will begin to actively waste the nutrients that accumulate in the roots. Repeat the procedure several times - and the weeds will die. This method is quite effective, but requires patience from the gardener.

Weeds can also be handled by hand

10. Proper harvesting of organic matter

Very often, weeds in the beds appear due to the fault of the gardeners themselves. The reason is the use of fresh manure as fertilizer, often containing a large amount of weed seeds. The same applies to compost in which mature herbs (with seeds) are laid. If you use not fully “ripened” fertilizer, not so much vegetables as weeds will rage in the garden. In properly prepared compost, the seeds of varietal grasses usually “burn out”.

Foreword

Weeds are a serious problem for all gardeners, because they absorb nutrients and moisture. As a result, this leads to soil depletion and poor growth of crops and plants in the garden.

Necessary tools and materials

What is the most effective way to fight?

Undoubtedly, herbicides are excellent weed killers, but to get the best results, you need to learn how to apply them correctly.. And now we will look at what herbicides are and how to use them to kill weeds.

Weed herbicides - what types are there?

Remedies for weeds in the garden in the country according to their chemical composition are divided into:

• Organic;
• Inorganic.

According to their impact, they are divided into means:

• Selective impact that can destroy certain types of weeds ( Lazurite, Lontrel-300);
• General (continuous) impact, which destroy absolutely all plants ( Arsenal, Tornado).

On sale you can find complex fertilizers, which include herbicides - it is desirable to use such drugs for lawn treatment.

Weed killer: rules for the use of herbicides

• Consider the type of harmful herb, the time of application and the dose of the drug;
• When choosing a weed control agent, study the active (main) substance on the label, since many products with identical composition have different names;
• For quick absorption, it is necessary to water the beds in advance;
• It is better to carry out the processing of young weeds, since such work will be much more efficient;
• Do not use herbicides if nighttime temperatures drop below -5°C
• Dilute herbicides only in clean water.

Garden tillage from weeds: folk methods

But do not forget that herbicides are chemical agents, which means that they remain toxic to the environment, posing a danger to bees and beneficial insects, pets.

Alternatively, you can prepare the solution yourself - it will take a little time and simple tools at hand. There are several options for home panacea.

1. Spray making. To do this, mix in a container 400 ml of white vinegar, three tablespoons of lemon juice, as well as 30-40 ml of alcohol and two tablespoons of ordinary detergent. After that, pour the prepared mixture into a plastic bottle with a sprayer and carry out the cultivation of the land. The main thing is to make sure that the prepared mixture does not fall on useful plants and crops.
2. You can use regular salt. The only remark is that it can only be used where you do not plan to plant anything in the next few years. Salt has the ability to destroy weeds, while soaking into the ground, preventing any plants from growing.

Salt can be used in several ways:

• We dissolve 150 ml of salt in a liter of hot water, pour the mixture into a bottle and proceed to processing.
• We water the weeds, sprinkle the bed with salt and moisten again.

And in the garden it takes a lot of time and effort from us. Quinoa, couch grass, knotweed, wormwood, amaranth - these are far from all representatives of the flora that "voluntarily" settle in areas and interfere with full growth and development. How to get rid of grass on the site? Summer residents are looking for the answer to this question from year to year. Effective ways to kill weeds, tested and approved by experienced gardeners, gardeners are presented in this article.

Quality tillage

You can get rid of the grass on the site as a result of seasonal work. In spring and autumn, when digging up the soil, use a pitchfork. With this tool, you can remove the grass from the ground completely without cutting its root, as is often the case when working with a shovel. If a weed particle remains in the ground, it is possible that it will grow again next year in this place.

As soon as the first grass sprouted on the site in the spring, it must immediately be weeded out with the roots. If the soil is damp, then it is better to pull it out with your hands. In order for the grass to not take root again on the surface of the soil, it is necessary to carefully select it and take it out of the site.

How to remove grass from the site: natural methods

Performing on the site, we ourselves, without thinking about it, use traditional methods of weed control.

Herbicides - "heavy artillery" in the fight against weeds

Thinking about how to get rid of grass on the site, especially when it comes to perennial weeds (couch grass, thistle, nettle), many summer residents opt for the use of herbicides. These are systemic preparations based on glyphosate, the impact of which on plants leads to the death of the latter. To date, the most effective herbicides are considered "Roundup", "Zero", "Hurricane", "Tornado". Before you get rid of the grass on the site with these drugs, carefully read the instructions for their use. Spraying is carried out in dry and calm weather. The first results of processing can be seen in a week. During this time, the drug is absorbed into the cells of the plant, destroying them. Leaves begin to wilt and dry out. After 20-25 days, the perennial dies entirely.

During the period of action of the preparations of the glyphosate group, it is not recommended to influence the ground around the weeds in any way (weeding, digging, watering). This can disrupt the movement of the herbicide through the cells of the plant and block its work. It is necessary to use Roundup and similar products before sowing vegetable seeds or after harvesting.

In order for the garden and the garden to please you with a good harvest, it is important not only to know how to get rid of the grass on the site, but also to be able to do it efficiently. Take the tips presented in this article into service, and by the next season you will notice that there are significantly fewer weeds in your garden.

Weed grass grows by itself, and in huge quantities, without any care and concern. This is its fundamental difference from cultivated plants. At the same time, weeds obscure cultural plantings, suck out precious moisture and nutrients from the soil, threatening to destroy the future crop in the bud.

Gardeners, gardeners and summer residents spend a lot of time saving their plots and gardens from this scourge. The struggle is carried on with varying success, but invariably the weed grass returns to the cultivated beds, and the battle flares up with renewed vigor.

How to get rid of the grass on the site forever or how to water the grass so that it never grows in the garden again - sooner or later every owner of a personal plot or cottage begins to ask these questions.

Grass on the plot

How to destroy the grass forever or who will help the gardener - this article is designed to answer these questions.

Mechanical Methods

The mechanical method of removing weeds will sooner or later get rid of weeds, or at least fight them quite successfully. The method is very labor-intensive - a person has to periodically remove weeds from the site, beds, lawn or yard. The essence of the mechanical method is that weeds are destroyed along with the root manually. They are not allowed, as they say, to raise their heads, over and over again removing greenery that is harmful to cultivated plants.

This is not an easy task and takes a lot of energy from the gardener.

Attention! Good results are obtained by digging the earth before autumn. The roots of weeds turn outward and freeze slightly in winter.

loosening

This method allows you to fight and exterminate weeds that have just hatched from seeds. Timely loosening allows you to quickly get rid of ninety percent of weeds after the first run.

Repeated loosening after a couple of days destroys weeds that survived after the first attempt. Periodic loosening after watering or rain allows you to destroy weeds on time and not spend long hours bending over the beds in the scorching sun.

Mulching

How to get rid of grass in the country with mulching? The method is effective, but not fast. The ground is covered with black non-woven material or a thick layer of mulch:

• fallen leaves,
• sawdust,
• straw,
• chopped grass.

Without sunlight, the weeds under the mulch do not undergo photosynthesis and the plants wither, weaken and die. If you have to fight in a single area with whole thickets of weeds, then the area is covered with mulch in the spring, and it is removed only the next year. The result will be great, but it will be only in a year.

This method of exposure allows you to perfectly remove the weeds before sowing the lawn. Mulching will clear the ground for plant beds.

Site mulching

Folk remedies

How to water the ground so that the grass never grows or how to destroy the grass on the site forever - this question, of course, is from the realm of fantasy. Sooner or later, the area freed from weeds will again get wind-blown seeds and weeds will reappear. After all, everyone has seen how blades of grass grow even into asphalt cracks. What can we say about the fertile land in the summer cottage.

Nevertheless, folk wisdom and tricks allow you to get rid of weeds for a long time. Vinegar and common table salt will help with this.

Salt against weeds

Salt allows you to get rid of the grass for a long time, but for a long period nothing will grow in this place at all. The method is used along fences and for clearing paths and paths.

Salt against weeds

The earth is sprinkled thickly with salt at the rate of a kilogram per square meter. Salt should be before rain or watering. Water or precipitation dissolves the salt and brings it into the ground.

All living things die and for many years nothing will grow in this place. This method was used in the old days as a remedy for the growth of grass in the cemetery forever. Getting rid of graves from grass took a long time.

Vinegar-based composition

Vinegar helps to get rid of unwanted grass no worse than modern herbicides and pesticides. A good and effective tool to help the gardener or gardener is the following composition:

• litere of water;
• liter of acetic acid;
• alcohol 100 grams;
• two tablespoons of dish detergent.

Drain everything into one container and spray weeds from the sprayer with this composition. Care must be taken not to get the product in the eyes or on cultivated plants.

Important! Spraying should be done in the morning in calm weather.

You can also sprinkle salt on the core of neatly cut weeds on the lawn or beds. The plant is cut at ground level and the cut is sprinkled with a pinch of salt. The root left in the ground will definitely die. The method works great on burdock and dandelions.

Application of herbicides

Herbicides are the most effective and fastest modern means for clearing the land. This method is chemical, herbicides should be applied with the utmost care, as they are poisons. At the same time, the use of chemicals will allow you to save your own time for doing more interesting and exciting things.

Attention! Only chemistry will help to quickly and effectively deal with litter in the garden or garden.

It is necessary and possible to use pesticides by first studying their effect and choosing the right drug for your site.

If the treatment is planned before the start of sowing, then it is worth using a stronger and faster drug.

Application on already sown areas requires a competent and balanced approach, and perhaps even the advice of an experienced specialist.

The selection of funds depends on the season, the degree of cultivation of the site and the type of weeds that need to be removed. And also, the rate of spread of weeds.

Pesticides against weeds

There are two types of herbicides on the market:

• systemic- getting on a leaf or stem of a plant, the drug spreads to all its parts, including underground ones, causing the inevitable complete death and extinction of the weed;
• contact- destroying exactly the area on which the drug fell.

Also, herbicides are divided according to the spectrum of the necessary action:

• full action,
• electoral action.

Preparations of continuous action will destroy all living things growing on the treated area, they will not figure out where the cultivated plants are, and where the rubbish is - the area will be completely cleaned. Such preparations can only be used where planting is still planned, as a means of clearing the ground and preparing for planting.

Note! Such tools are used to combat plantations and thickets of weeds dangerous to humans, such as hogweed or ragweed, which capture and infect new areas at an incredible speed, squeezing out and jamming cultural plantings. For example, we can name the herbicides Tornado or Antiburyan - they will allow you to completely clean the site, thus preparing it for sowing the lawn.

Roundup, Hurricane, Lapis lazuli have also proven themselves well. The Agrokiller tool allows you to destroy not only weeds, horsetail, wheatgrass or cow parsnip at the root, but also successfully fights shrubs and young growth of trees that have flooded the ground.

Selective herbicides will help in the fight against weeds in an already sown area. They will not affect cultivated plants by their action, but will destroy one or more types of weeds. Their second name is selective.

For example, we can name the drug Lontrel - it kills weeds of the nightshade and legume families on a lawn or strawberry plantings, while not affecting lawn grass and strawberries.

Additional Information! There are also separate drugs that affect, for example, only dandelions. With the help of them, you can easily get rid of this sun lover.

Herbicide treatment rules:

• use protective equipment during pollination - long-sleeved clothing, gloves and a respirator;
• prepare the solution immediately before use;
• do not use metal utensils;
• to process in dry calm weather;
• irrigate a few days before processing;
• it is advisable to spray twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

No matter how much advice experienced gardeners and gardeners give, no one has yet managed to remove weeds from their plot or dacha forever. Complete and long-term destruction of weeds is impossible, they will not be sown and grow only on a surface filled with a layer of concrete, and then until it cracks. But it is necessary and possible to fight them, if possible, cleaning your gardens and plots as much as possible.