Green cuttings in August. Summer cuttings What can be cuttings at the end of June
Perennials are very convenient to propagate by cuttings, because some plants do not tolerate division, and if an overgrown perennial organically fits into the design of the garden, it is a pity to touch it.
Cuttings can also propagate a rare or very expensive plant. The vast majority of plants grown from cuttings retain all parental properties. The exception is variegated forms and having different leaf colors - yellow, red, silver.
As a rule, these are forms of genetic origin. The cells of such plants can be located not only in the stem, therefore, there is a chance of the appearance of specimens with green foliage, in order to obtain plants identical to the mother liquors, when the cuttings grow, it is necessary to cull them, leaving only those that have retained the characteristics of the variety.
For vegetative propagation, various parts of plants are used. Already at the end of spring for this purpose, you can take root shoots, breaking them out at the very base of the bush. This is how many frost-resistant perennials propagate: delphinium, panicled phlox, autumn asters, veronicastrum, yarrow. They quickly form roots, and the plants are strong, stocky, with large caps of flowers (for example, in phloxes).
They are used on cuttings and basal shoots in plants with a rosette structure, breaking them out at the base. In this way, the now popular geyhers, tiarki, geyherellas are easily propagated. Moreover, this can be done throughout the warm season, until autumn.
Starting in June, perennial cuttings are forged parts of stems. They are separated from the plant when it is at its peak. In this case, the timing of cuttings for each plant should be approached individually. But there are also general rules: the stem must be flexible, that is, when you try to fold it in half, it must not crack. In this way, phloxes, clematis, roses can be propagated.
Throughout the summer, stem cuttings of ground cover plants take root perfectly. At the same time, in phlox awl-shaped, Veronica Armenian, thyme, you can use the upper parts of the shoots after the end of flowering.
Only healthy plants are selected for cuttings. If cuttings are used from already flowering specimens, then not only part of the leaves, but also the flowers, must be removed.
It is better to cut the stems in the morning, when the plants have nourished the night moisture (its deficiency will help make up for the evening watering).
Cuttings taken from the top of the shoot take root better, but they endure winter worse. The survival rate of cuttings taken from the lower part of the stem is the lowest, and from the middle part it is optimal.
Try cuttings from whatever you want to propagate.. But success in cuttings of perennial asters, aquilegia, bluebells, chrysanthemums, dahlias, lavender, mint, periwinkle, phlox, carnations, sage, veronica, thyme, yarrow, helon is guaranteed.
The stem is cut into cuttings in such a way that each part of it has at least two nodes or three leaves, but you can take a longer one - up to 15 cm high, however, in this case it is more difficult to maintain the turgor (elasticity) of the leaves when rooted.
The lower cut is made under the leaf or leaf node, stepping back 2-3 mm at an angle of 45 degrees. Upper - at a right angle above the upper kidney. Thanks to this, you can no longer confuse the lower part of the stem with the upper one and plant the cutting upside down. At the lower kidney, the leaves are completely removed, trying not to damage it, leaving the petiole.
Subsequent leaves are shortened by half. The cuttings with milky juice are washed under water so that the vascular system does not clog.
There is another way of cutting herbaceous perennials - leaves. For example, when breeding varieties of primroses, incarvilles, panicled phlox, when there is no other way to get planting material, as soon as you take leaves from familiar flower growers. It is used much less frequently, since it is more painstaking in nursing leafy cuttings.
For better rooting of cuttings, stimulants for the formation of the root system are used - liquid or powder. For plants that react negatively to waterlogging (for example, awl-shaped phlox), or herbaceous plants (cloves), only powder preparations are used. The most common is Kornevin. For cuttings prone to rotting, you can use stimulants, which include charcoal ("Rooter"). Before placing the cutting in the ground, its base is dipped into the preparation, to a depth of no more than 1-2 cm. Shake off excess powder.
When using liquid stimulants ("Epin-extra", "Kornevin", "Zir-kon" and others), the cuttings are placed in the solution prepared in accordance with the instructions for 10-12 hours, also to a depth of no more than 1 cm.
Cuttings need moist and well-drained soil to form roots. The classic mixture is equal parts of over-rotted peat and coarse sand. It fills a small greenhouse or container (boxes, pots, plastic boxes) with drainage holes. Rooting can also be done in pure river sand or perlite (a special compound for rooting cuttings, which is sold in garden centers).
To maintain humidity and preserve heat, the cuttings should be under a glass roof or under a film tunnel. Green cuttings are planted to a depth of 1 cm, semi-lignified - a little deeper.
The cuttings will require care. They need a temperature in the range of 23-26 ° C, increased humidity of the soil and air, access to diffused light, and as they take root, periodic ventilation. Glass or film shelter should be opened daily, and if the cuttings are left unattended for some time, provide ventilation holes. As the roots develop (the terms for different plants are not the same), ventilation is gradually increased.
As soon as the cuttings have new leaves or the growth of the planted stems increases, it's time to feed the "young growth". To do this, use a weak solution of a complete mineral fertilizer once every 10-12 days.
The timing of transplantation to a permanent place in different cultures may not coincide. If the plants develop slowly, it is better to leave them at the cutting site (in the ground) until spring, while removing the top cover.
By the way, there is another very effective method of grafting, which received the name "at the mother" in amateur floriculture. To do this, the cutting is placed next to the mother plant, covering it with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. You can hide a small container directly behind the plant so as not to disturb the aesthetics of the flower garden. Under other identical conditions, the cuttings next to the mother plant take root flawlessly.
Before buying a seedling of a plant in a store or on the market, similar to the one that grows with a neighbor and you really liked it, it will not be superfluous to find out: is it possible to try to get a young seedling from a cutting? Of course, among many plants, not all of them take root well, but there are those that do not take root at all. However, there are a number of plants that in this case behave quite unpretentiously.
The benefits of cuttings
And yet, why cuttings?Firstly, in this case, you are guaranteed to receive exactly the variety that caused you delight and desire to have it on your site.
Secondly, you pay absolutely nothing for a seedling, but just waste a little of your time. But - compared to how much time you lose if the purchased seedling you grow in a few years produces a crop of a completely different variety, or an ornamental plant blooms not pink, but white - it's worth it.
Thirdly, you gain valuable experience that will surely come in handy in the future.
Mature magnolia can also be propagated by cuttings.
Fourthly, cuttings can be harvested a lot, and then the resulting young seedlings can be exchanged with neighbors, sold or simply donated.
So, what plants can be safely planted with cuttings?
Tamarix
- a very beautiful frost-resistant ornamental plant that you probably saw in your city. Usually they decorate green recreation areas, front gardens, park areas and even road rings. Tamarix blooms with millions of tiny pale pink flowers several times a season.
Tamarix cuttings do not have to be harvested in the fall and then worry about whether they will last until spring. It is enough at the end of the season, when the plant is already "sleeping", to cut the cuttings about 40 cm long and plant them directly in the ground, burying them halfway, and then water them well and mulch for the winter. From spring, it is necessary to ensure watering of the cuttings, adding a root formation stimulator to the water every other month.
But the most effective for tamarix is the spring harvesting of cuttings. In early March, we cut cuttings from tamarix bushes, and then put them in jars of water, 3-5 pieces each. We do not add any root stimulant. We maintain the water at a constant level and completely replace it once a week. After 2 weeks, roots will appear on the surface of the underwater part of the cutting, and after a month and a half, the entire jar will be filled with roots.
In the second or third year after rooting, tamarix will bloom magnificently
Next, we plant the rooted cuttings directly into the ground or place each young seedling in a separate container with prepared soil. It should be noted that when planting in the fall, more powerful and thick one- and two-year-old cuttings are selected, and when planting in the spring, annual cuttings of any size are preferable.
Japanese quince or chaenomeles
Cuttings can also be planted in both autumn and spring. Japanese quince bushes reproduce by underground shoots that can emerge from the ground more than a meter from the center of the mother plant. Unlike other shrubs, these shoots may not have roots at all, since the entire underground part of the shoot is one large root, which also receives nutrition from the main plant.
An adult bush has many side shoots
When separated from the mother plant, the shoot can later independently exist in the ground, bloom and bear fruit, while a powerful branched root system can form only after a few years.
If you extract such a separate flowering shoot from the ground even in the second year after separation from the main bush, then you can often see the same completely bare (without additional roots) stem of the shoot. This speaks in favor of the fact that its entire underground part plays the role of a root.
Quince before flowering
Therefore, cuttings (in fact, these are layers) of quince must be harvested by digging up such shoots and separating them from the bush 20-30 cm below ground level. Planted, such a cutting, with timely watering, will soon turn into a luxurious flowering bush.
Japanese quince stalk in spring
In fairness, it should be noted that chaenomeles takes root well even when cuttings are taken only from the aerial part of the bush. In this case, the stalk must be cut as long as possible and buried when planting.
Actinidia
takes root quite well when planted by cuttings immediately into the ground before winter or early spring. The principle used here is the same as in the case of tamariks. The main condition is to ensure timely watering (once a week). Sand can be added to the ground when planting.
For the winter, the soil around the cuttings must be covered, for example, with spruce branches or cut branches, a grape vine. In summer, to prevent drying out, the soil must be mulched. Frost-resistant varieties can not be additionally covered, non-frost-resistant varieties can be covered according to the principle of grapes.
But it must be remembered that not all actinidia have the same hard crust structure. For example, in the case of the covering bisexual variety Jenny in the spring, you need to be very careful, because with sudden movements, the hairy, pliable bark of a plant of this variety can peel off and peel off the trunk.
The upper part of the plant died due to damage to the bark.
But if you take precautions, then already in the second year after planting, the growth can be about 0.3-0.5 m (in adult plants - at least 1 m), and the plant itself will be strong and will have lush foliage and shoots.
According to observations of three years, the best survival was observed in female plants of same-sex varieties.
Jasmine
A large number of varieties of jasmine or not difficult to grow from cuttings. can be planted with cuttings both before winter and in spring, getting them directly from mother plants immediately before planting.
Jasmine cuttings in spring. Landing was carried out before winter
Due to its unpretentiousness, half of all cuttings of jasmine and mock orange take root perfectly without any stimulants, and a strong cutting planted before winter can, like Japanese quince, bloom in the very first spring.
When transplanting large side shoots of jasmine without roots, they can release foliage only after a season, standing all year with bare branches, forming and growing at this time the root system and shedding small branches.
Observing in this case completely bare branches with the absence of any reaction to caring for the plant, you should not despair ahead of time, because if you cut off part of the branch with a pruner, you can see living green wood. Therefore, when planting, such shoots are buried and cut off 30-40 cm from the ground.
Blueberry
Having planted a broken branch in the ground in autumn or spring, in the summer you can be surprised to find that it has taken root and spread its leaves.
We plant a branch in the ground and shade
At the same time, the accustomed branch in the first year reacts extremely negatively even to the slightest drought and can shed all the leaves, so the trunk circle must be mulched when the heat sets in.
Honeysuckle
when rooting cuttings, it behaves in the same way as jasmine. It is unpretentious, able to take root well even with two-three-year-old cuttings.
Mature honeysuckle bush
If you plant a whole branch of an adult bush as a cutting, then the excess of small branches must be removed.
When planting, we deepen the entire branch so that new shoots can appear from under the ground.
Blackberry large-fruited
, for example, Thornfree and similar large-fruited varieties are not at all difficult to grow from cuttings. In autumn or spring, we cut off a thick one-year-old cutting with 4-5 buds about half a meter long and plant it in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees, leaving 2 buds above the ground. We water abundantly.
You can also plant thinner branch ends. In this case, the underground part should be as long as possible. For the winter, we cover the cuttings with spruce branches.
In the spring, leaves will appear from above-ground buds, and the strongest cuttings can bloom even in the first year.
Future blackberry bush
If the winter was not snowy, and the aerial part was frozen, young shoots will appear from under the ground.
Blackberry cuttings are very tenacious
Watering such cuttings is done once every 1-2 weeks.
Grape
can be planted with cuttings immediately in the ground both in spring and before winter. In autumn, before sheltering for the winter, we cut cuttings with 4 buds and plant them immediately in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees so that one bud remains above the ground and the second is at ground level.
Overwintered stalk in spring
The number of kidneys is not important, you can leave more. We cover with spruce.
Spring planting is similar, but before planting, we keep the cuttings overnight in a root stimulator. In spring and summer, water the cuttings once a week so that the soil does not dry out. Shade if necessary.
This ornamental plant takes root quite well. When planting prepared branches, they should be placed at an angle of 45 degrees or more (creeping varieties) to the surface of the earth, so that when watering, moisture reaches the entire underground part of the branch. At the same time, they deepen most of the branch. Vertically growing varieties are planted vertically.
When preparing planting material for cuttings, it is worth choosing branches located as low as possible to the ground or lying on the ground, since they already have pronounced outgrowths on the bark, from which roots will appear in the future.
End of october. It's time to take cuttings
In the future, from spring, it will be necessary to water the branch once a week, in the first month adding a root formation stimulator to the water every other time, and provide shading from the sun, as well as mulch the soil of the near-stem circle.
Young plant from cuttings
When planted by cuttings, sakura can bloom in the same year.
Results
Here are the most unpretentious plants that I managed to grow from cuttings on my site. Separately, it is worth noting that for these plants it is possible not to use various root formation stimulants at all. The main condition for success here is the timely watering, mulching and shading of plants.If possible, then the best result can be achieved by preparing a full-fledged layering with a root system for the season. And for this, you just need to find good-natured neighbors who will suddenly forget about all their affairs and, with undisguised joy and awe, will rush to grow for you everything that you have noticed from them.
Therefore, I wish everyone good luck in experiments on growing from cuttings!
Green cuttings in August. Video lessons. Green cuttings are one of the most productive methods of vegetative propagation. In July - early August, when the plants are in the phase of active growth, the best time for green cuttings comes.
With the help of green cuttings, many trees and shrubs can be propagated, but it must be borne in mind that the rooting ability of cuttings depends on the type and variety of the plant. The method of propagation by green cuttings is based on the ability of stem cuttings to form adventitious roots, which is expressed to varying degrees in different plants. Herbaceous perennials and shrubs, which are younger in evolutionary terms, have the greatest ability to differentiate, and to a lesser extent, tree species, especially the most ancient conifers, although among them there are species with a high ability to root by green cuttings. Creepers (clematis, grapes, parthenocissus, actinidia, petiole hydrangea), many shrubs (mock oranges, lilacs, hydrangeas, privet, honeysuckle) are easily rooted. For roses, it is advisable to use cuttings only for small-leaved groups, the main assortment of varietal roses grows better and overwinters on a rootstock.
Cuttings are cut 8-12 cm long with two or three internodes; plants with short internodes may have more. In a number of plants - roses, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, grapes, mock oranges, lilacs, cuttings with one axillary bud, called leaf-buds, take root well. Such cuttings make it possible to obtain a large amount of planting material of valuable species and varieties in the presence of a small amount of material for cuttings. When cutting at the optimum time, it is better to use the middle and lower, in the later stages - the upper part of the shoot. Cutting is done on a hard board with a very sharp tool - a grafting knife or blade that does not squeeze the tissue. The lower cut is made oblique to increase the suction surface, 1 cm below the kidney, the upper one is straight, directly above the kidney.
In large-leaved plants (for example, lilac, viburnum, vesicle), to reduce the evaporation area, leaf blades are cut by ½ or 1/3, but in hard-to-root, as well as variegated, yellow-leaved, purple forms with a low chlorophyll content, this technique must be used carefully, since assimilation may not be sufficient to ensure root formation. It would be good to truncate the leaf blades even before cutting the cuttings, this will also reduce moisture loss. The cuttings are sprayed with water and placed before planting under a non-woven covering material to prevent them from wilting.
Finished cuttings are planted in pre-prepared breeding ridges, which are arranged in the shade (in most cases, the optimal illumination for successful rooting is 50-70%). The cuttings are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. From above, the ridge is covered with glass, plastic wrap or non-woven covering material along arcs at a height of 25 cm from the cuttings. Each of these materials has its drawbacks - in the heat, under polyethylene and glass, the temperature can rise too much, and it is more difficult to maintain high humidity under a non-woven covering material. For most trees and shrubs, the optimum temperature is + 20 ... + 26 degrees and humidity 80-90%. The cuttings rooted in the cuttings are left in the ground, covered with a dry leaf for the winter, or dug up and stored in the refrigerator or dug in the basement, at a temperature of +1 ... +2 degrees. In the spring, the cuttings are transplanted into the "school" for 2-3 years for growing, then transplanted to a permanent place.
Cuttings are one of the methods of vegetative propagation of plants, and for some plants it is the only method of propagation. One of the main features of cuttings is that plants grown from cuttings retain all parental properties.
Let us consider in more detail the propagation of plants by green cuttings:
Green cuttings are cut from mother plants, whose age is from 5 to 10 years. For hard-to-root plants - in two or three years old. Choose healthy and strong plants.
Cuttings are made in June - early July. But do not forget that each plant has its own characteristics and terms for the successful rooting of cuttings. The cuttings of plants such as parthenocissus, clematis, privet, mock orange, actinidia, honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac and many others are most easily rooted.
Green cuttings are the part of the plant stem that contains one or two buds. Last year's side shoots, which are not susceptible to disease and have large and strong buds, are best suited.
Cutting cuttings is done either early in the morning, when the sun has not yet warmed the soil much, or in the evening after sunset. Do not cut cuttings in extreme heat and dry weather. The best time to do this is on a wet day after heavy rain, when the plant is at its most sap-filled.
Prepare cuttings for propagation of plants by cuttings in the following way
- Cuttings are cut, the length of which is 8-12 cm, with two or three internodes.
- With a sharp knife or secateurs, the base of the cutting is cut at an angle of 40 degrees at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the kidney, the upper cut is made straight above the kidney. All lower leaves are cut off, and two or three leaves are left on top of the cutting. If the plant is broad-leaved, then the leaves on the cuttings are shortened by half.
- Next, the cut cuttings are placed for several minutes in a fungicide solution to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. After that, shake off excess drops from the tip of the cutting. Then the tip is lowered into the growth stimulator (for example, rooting or rooting).
Planting cuttings
- Greenhouses or greenhouses are used for planting cuttings. If there are few cuttings, then they can be planted in small pots of several pieces, depending on the size of the cuttings.
- A layer of soil (10-15 cm) mixed with sand is placed at the bottom of the pot. The second layer on top is coarse-grained clean sand (3-5 cm).
- With a thin stick (for example, a pencil), holes are made in the soil with a depth of 2.5-3 cm. Then the finished cuttings are placed vertically in them at a distance of 4-7 cm from each other. The same stick compacts the soil around the base of the cutting.
- The cuttings are carefully watered from a watering can with a fine sieve. For planting, a mini-greenhouse is built from a film. If the cuttings are planted in a pot, then you can cover it with a transparent bag on top, and secure it with an elastic band from below, at the base of the pot. Thus, you get a mini-greenhouse that can be left on the windowsill of the house.
Be sure to shade all planted cuttings !!!
Cutting Care
A suitable temperature for normal rooting is 20-25 degrees.
During rooting (and the rooting time for each plant is different, see the table below), the cuttings are periodically sprayed with warm water 2-4 times a day. When spraying, a solution of epin can be added to the water, which contributes to the faster appearance of roots.
After a certain time, callus begins to appear at the end of the cutting, and then the roots themselves.
After that, the buds of the cutting come into action, shoots begin to appear. After the shoots grow a little, the cuttings begin to harden. To do this, once a day, the greenhouses are opened for a while (if the pot is removed, then the package is removed). With normal growth of shoots, young plants air more often and for a longer time. And then they open greenhouses at all (approximately the end of August - the beginning of September).
If the cuttings are well rooted, then (in hardwoods) in the fall they can be planted in a permanent place in the garden. If not, then it is better to leave in the greenhouse until spring.
In slow-growing conifers, it is better to leave cuttings in a greenhouse for growing for 2-3 years.
Terms of cuttings of plants
| Plant | Cutting time | Rooting percentage | Duration |
| Rose | Budding - the beginning of flowering | on average, 83.9%, in some varieties up to 100% | from 10-15 to 28 |
| Lilac | flowering phase | up to 90-100% | |
| Clematis | Budding - the beginning of flowering | 40-100% depending on the variety | 25-30 |
| Chubushnik | Attenuation of shoot growth - the beginning of flowering | up to 90-100% | 15-25 |
| Spirea | Early-mid June | from 30 to 100% in different species | 12-25 |
| forsythia | First half of June | up to 70% | 20-30 |
| viburnum | flowering period | 100% | 14-21 |
| Cotoneaster | End of June-beginning of July | 100% | |
| action | Early June-mid July | 100% | 17-25 |
| Privet | Mid June - early July | 80-90% | 14-21 |
| Deren | Mid June - early July | 100% | |
| Honeysuckle | End of shoot growth | 100% | 11-20 |
| Hydrangea | June July | 80-100% | 20-23 |
| Rhododendron | July-September | 72-76% | 50-70 |
| Actinidia | June July | 36% | |
| Skumpia | End of June-beginning of July | 100% | 20-30 |
| Barberry | June | 33-100% | |
| Kolkvitsia | Early July | 46% | |
| Weigela | 100% | ||
| Euonymus | 45% | 45 | |
| Currant | 83% | ||
| genomeles | 100% | ||
| Cotoneaster | up to 100% | up to 28 | |
| Keriya | up to 100% | ||
| Kuril tea | 100% | ||
| Juniper | 70-90% | ||
| thuja | June | 30-60% | 30-60 |
| Spruce | June July | 50% |
Video: "Plant cuttings with Sergey Glazinov"
Your flower garden: works of the month.
August crept up unnoticed. Behind the friendly flowering of lilies, daylilies every day less and less bloom their flowers, exquisite in shape and color.
Mid-summer perennials are being replaced by defiantly luxurious dahlias, geleniums, hibiscuses, tireless helianthus, clematis, petunias, tagetes continue to bloom, annual asters bloom ...
Divide, plant, transplant
To preserve the unique flavor of your garden for years to come, you need to remember your plants not only at the time of their flowering. Even the centenarians of the garden over the years can lose their decorative effect, weaken, get sick, if you do not take care of them, do not grow a young replacement for aging plants.
August is the last month of summer, but the end of the season is still far away. Therefore, you need to take care of the appearance of your flower beds.
We cut off the elongated shoots of petunias, faded ageratum inflorescences, cut the thyme (if we haven’t done it before), “return” the overgrown clumps of sedums, geraniums, periwinkle and other perennials to the boundaries allotted to them.
We feed all plants with complex mineral fertilizer. Don't forget to water.
Cut and remove the yellowed daylily leaves.
It is better to divide, plant and transplant perennials when the heat subsides. Autumn is long, and the plants will have time to take root, settle down in new places, and prepare well for winter.
Preparing a place for planting perennials
In the meantime, we will prepare areas for planting perennials, bulbs. For each type of plant, we choose a place, taking into account its requirements for illumination, ventilation, stagnation of spring and rain waters. When choosing a place, we also take into account where the plants will look most advantageous.
Before digging, add compost or humus, add superphosphate (2-2.5 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (1-1.5 tablespoons). Having prepared the site, water it to provoke the growth of weeds and then weed them out.
August is a good time to transplant irises
Let's look closely at the thickets of irises. Surely, if they have not been transplanted for a long time, there are a lot of frail, drooping and yellow leaves on the site. Such a curtain no longer decorates the garden, but reproaches the owners for inattention.
Let's grab a shovel and do some work. We transplant irises, choosing the healthiest links for planting in a new place - a fan of leaves and a piece of a young rhizome.
Prepared divisions of irises.
In divisions, we shorten the roots and leaves by about 10 cm, keep them in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then for about a day in the sun.
We dig holes, pour them into each mound, put a rhizome on it, straighten the roots along the slopes, cover it with earth, compact it with our hands, water it, check the planting depth (the rhizome should be at soil level).
We seat lilies
At the end of August, you can begin to plant overgrown nests of lilies. And they divide the nest when 4-6 bulbs are formed in it. But first, let's dig one nest, make sure that the bulbs in it have recovered after flowering: the scales on them are juicy, elastic.
If the bulbs are loose, with thin scales, we will postpone the transplant, give the bulbs extra time to recover. It is preferable to divide and transplant lilies in late summer - early autumn than in spring, when the sprouts that emerge from the ground break off easily.
Preparing the soil for transplanting
If lilies are transplanted on their site, you first need to prepare the soil for planting them, and only then proceed to dig up the plants.
On heavy soils, humus and sand are added for digging (one bucket per square meter). You don’t need to add more: an excess of organic matter causes increased growth of the aerial parts of plants to the detriment of flowering, the formation of healthy bulbs, reduces the winter hardiness of plants, and makes them susceptible to diseases.
Humus or compost is added to light soils (a bucket per sq. M). Add superphosphate and potassium sulfate - respectively 2 and 1 tbsp. spoons. It is important to keep the lily bulbs, their roots fresh, not to dry them.
Lilies are planted to a depth of 2-3 times the height of the bulb. It is advisable to pour a layer of sand at the bottom of the planting grooves, on which the bulbs are placed, their roots are straightened and covered first with sand, and then with good fertile soil.
We share the overgrown peonies
With special care, we proceed to the division and transplantation of pions. For each division, we dig holes wide and deep (up to 70 cm), so that there is where to add a nutrient soil mixture: 2-3 buckets of compost or humus, a glass of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, mix everything thoroughly.
From above we pour a layer of 20-25 cm of ordinary fertile soil without fertilizers. It is advisable to prepare the pits in advance - three weeks before planting, so that the soil settles well.
If it is decided to plant several bushes nearby, pits are dug through a meter from each other. Usually the excavated peony bush is divided into parts with 3-4 renewal buds. But experts consider delenki with 1-2 buds and a small piece of rhizome to be a higher quality planting material.
Plants obtained from such "babies" are distinguished by great health and longevity, since their root system is almost completely renewed.
When planted on heavy soils, the buds of divisions are deepened by 3-5, on light soils - by 5-7 cm. With a shallower planting, plants can suffer from frost in winter, and from overheating in summer. Deeper planting is one of the reasons why peonies do not bloom.
We cut perennials
August is a favorable time for cuttings of perennials. Suppose a neighbor liked sedum or phlox, Korean chrysanthemum ... It is not at all necessary to wait until a piece of rhizome is allocated to us during transplantation, it is enough to ask for the apical part of the shoot of the plant you like.
If there are few cuttings, it is better to root them in some kind of bowl or seedling box, placed in a shaded place. Pour drainage (sand or fine expanded clay) at the bottom of the tank. Then - a three-centimeter layer of fertile land, and already we pour five centimeters of clean sand on it.
Rooted in the sand, the cuttings take root in the fertile layer and begin to grow actively. In cuttings (part of the shoot with 2-3 internodes), the lower leaves are cut off, the upper ones are shortened and the lower part (where the leaves are cut) is buried in a moistened layer of sand.
After landing, the cuttings are covered with a film or glass and placed in a shaded place. Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place. In the first winter, they are insulated by sprinkling the soil with compost and leaves.
A young clematis plant can be guaranteed to be obtained by digging a layer next to the bush.
This is how clematis shoots are dropped.
We dig a groove about 10 cm deep near the bush. Without cutting off, carefully remove one shoot from the trellis, lay it on the bottom of the groove, fix it with wire pins and sprinkle it with nutrient soil, leaving the shoot growth point on the surface (20 centimeters).
The main work is done. Now it remains to be watered regularly. In a year we will have several young plants of our favorite clematis.
- You can read more about clematis cuttings in the article.
- If you are interested in how to cut roses from a bouquet in both winter and summer, the article will be useful to you.
It is not difficult to propagate Asiatic lilies. Among the bulbs formed in the axils of their leaves, you can choose the largest ones (and they are larger on young plants) and plant them in a small, weed-free area.
We plant the bulbs no deeper than 2-3 cm. We place the row from the row after 20 cm, we plant the bulbs in the row after 5-6 cm. We water the grooves before planting. We fill the bulbs with fertile soil, mulch with compost. In a year, the lilies will develop a rosette of leaves, and in the third year they will bloom.
Here are the bulbs.
In August, you can collect flower seeds
We do not postpone the collection of perennial seeds for autumn. Seeds harvested in cold, wet weather are less likely to germinate. Yes, and they can crumble before your hands reach them.
Snapdragon flower stalks are cut into seeds when holes appear on the lower seed pods.
Zinnia seeds ripen more evenly and keep well in inflorescences. But still, it is better to collect them and dry them in a well-ventilated area.
As they mature, the seeds of fragrant tobacco, gazania, sanvitalia, tagetes and other annuals are collected. It makes sense to collect the seeds of even such "self-sowing" as nigella, escholzia. They themselves will sow seeds wherever they please, and in the spring you will throw them into the ground where they will be appropriate.
It's time to bring indoor flowers into the house
At the end of the month, we begin to gradually return indoor plants to apartments. Before that, we wash the leaves, treat with fitoverm, so as not to bring aphids or spider mites home.
Ficuses, hibiscus and other large plants that have grown over the summer may require transshipment into a larger container. For other plants, it would be nice to replace the top layer of soil: from frequent watering, which is inevitable in summer, it has lost its nutritional value.
Let's carefully examine the plants themselves: perhaps they need to pinch the tops, cut out weak, drying shoots.
In order not to lose the pelargonium of the colors you like, we cut the cuttings. They will root faster than cuttings cut in the fall. It is possible to transplant several not the largest pelargonium plants from the flower garden into pots in order to move them into rooms even before the onset of autumn cold snaps.
Have you noticed the “beaks” of seeds on the inflorescences of pelargonium? Collect them to sow in the winter. From the seedlings grow neat, profusely flowering bushes.
For all plants, we reduce the proportion of nitrogen in top dressing: let them begin to prepare for winter. We are preparing for the dormant period of the hippeastrum, gradually reducing watering and, thereby, allowing the leaves to dry out and “pump” the stored nutrients into the bulbs.
We transplant the awakened cyclamen tubers into a mixture of leafy soil, humus, peat, sand (3: 1: 1: 1).