​Dieffenbachia ailments: how to help cope with them. Dieffenbachia Dieffenbachia its diseases and care for them

• fungal infections (atracnose, leaf spot), fungal spores (leaf spot) can be obtained by the plant with irrigation water; dry brown spots appear along the edges of the leaves, gradually spreading over the entire surface of the leaf, it becomes lethargic and lifeless.

  Athracnose is provoked by excessively high temperature in the room, dry air, in some cases, waterlogged soil (excessive watering); to get rid of this problem, it is enough to normalize the temperature and watering regime; the affected leaves can be treated with a regular fungicide to prevent infection of other leaves;

• drafts, low air temperatures can also lead to leaves drying out and falling off; to eliminate the Dieffenbachia problem, you need to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room;
• the plant ages, the lower leaves dry out and fall off, this is a natural process. It is necessary to rejuvenate it by cuttings. To do this, the bare trunk of Dieffenbachia needs to be cut into cuttings, leaving only a small part of the stem in the pot, which will soon give rise to a new shoot and Dieffenbachia will continue to grow;

  To combat fusarium, the flower must be transplanted into another pot, after removing rot from the roots and treating the affected areas with a fungicide;

• root rot, which appears when the soil is overly fertilized and moistened. Rot first affects the root system, then gradually affects the trunk, the flower withers and dies. It is necessary to replant Dieffenbachia, having previously treated the roots with a fungicide and limit watering;
• overmoistening in combination with low air temperature, in this case it is necessary to provide the plant with a comfortable temperature and limit watering.

In the photo below you will see the symptoms of the disease in Dieffenbachia:

Pests. Methods to combat them

Despite its poisonous nature, Dieffenbachia is susceptible to attacks by pests, which cause significant harm to it.

It is most often affected by spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects. The method of combating each species is the same: it is necessary to wash the leaves and the trunk of the flower with a sponge soaked in soapy water (which should later be washed off under running warm water) and treat Dieffenbachia with an insecticide solution (karbofos, 15 drops per 1 liter of water).

• scale insect is a small insect with a hard waxy body, it can usually be found on inside leaves, the affected leaves turn pale and fall off;
• the mealybug got its name due to its secretions that look like shreds of fluff, it attacks the leaves, Dieffenbachia begins to turn yellow and fall off, the flower dies;
• spider mite, the presence of which can be determined by the coating of cobwebs on the trunk, the leaves of the flower become sluggish and lifeless;
• aphid is an insect that has a dark green color, it can be seen on the inside of the leaves, aphids are dangerous because they are able to suck out intercellular fluid, weakening the plant and are a carrier of diseases;
• thrips are small beetles that suck the juice from the plant, which leads to curling and drying of the leaves.

Conclusion

Here is all the information about the most common diseases and problems of Dieffenbachia. Of course, it is possible that none of the above may happen to your plant, but: “forewarned is forearmed,” take this article into account and then you will be able to save your favorite Dieffenbachia in any situation.

In the video below you will learn tips for caring for Dieffenbachia and ways to treat its diseases:

Spotted Dieffenbachia "Camilla" is a spectacular and dangerous plant - how to care for it at home?



Dieffenbachia is evergreen from the South American tropics. There are about 40 species in total, including “Camilla”. Its thick, succulent stems bear large, lanceolate, cream-colored leaves with a light green edge.

At home, Dieffenbachia of any variety blooms extremely rarely, but some gardeners still manage to achieve the appearance of a modest cob-shaped inflorescence. This beauty has only one drawback - its juice is poisonous.

Home care

Care after purchase

Choose the right place for your new pet: spacious, well-lit, but out of hot, direct sunlight. For example, a couple of meters from the south window. If the windows do not provide enough light, artificial lighting will save the situation.

Dieffenbachia loves moisture, but is very demanding on it. The water for watering it should at least be settled or passed through a filter, possibly rain or even boiled. The presence of lime in it is unacceptable.

Watering is required abundantly, but within reason, without stagnation of moisture. In winter, the usual amount of water is reduced, but the soil in the container should not be allowed to dry out completely.

Camilla loves water not only in the form of watering, but also in the form of spraying, as well as wiping the leaves. A warm shower in the bathroom is possible if the plant is small.

In this case, you need to carefully ensure that water does not get on the soil in the pot and wash it away.

Rare gardeners manage to surround the capricious Dieffenbachia with such impeccable conditions in which it would bloom. But those who are especially diligent may be lucky, and in April or May they can see a spadix flower appearing from the axil of a leaf in a creamy-green “veil.”

It fades quickly, after which the wilted inflorescence must be cut off so that it does not take away nutrients from the plant. The fruit is an orange-red berry - of course, inedible.

Crown formation

In order for Camilla to maintain its impressive appearance, you need to get rid of damaged leaves. Pruning is also necessary if Dieffenbachia grows too quickly. The pruning procedure must be carried out with gloves.

Blot each damaged leaf with a napkin so that it absorbs the poisonous juice from the “wounds”, and then use a knife or blade treated with alcohol to cut off the leaf or part of the plant trunk.

In the photo below you can appreciate the appearance of Dieffenbachia “Camilla”:











The optimal soil composition for Dieffenbachia is: leaf soil, peat, crushed sphagnum moss and fine river sand, all preferably in a ratio of 2:1:1:0.5. You can add charcoal.

In spring and summer, Dieffenbachia is fed with liquid mineral or organic fertilizer for indoor plants. It should not contain lime. It is recommended to fertilize approximately once every 10 days.

Planting and transplanting

The minimum frequency of Dieffenbachia transplantation is once every three years. However, sometimes this procedure needs to be carried out twice a year. It all depends on the speed of its growth.

A flower needs a “housewarming” when its root system fills absolutely the entire pot.

The best time to “relocate” is from February to May. The new container should be only a couple of centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one, but not larger - excess soil in an overly large pot can turn sour over time and cause rotting of the roots.

A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the new pot, and then the plant is transferred along with the earthen ball if the soil is in good condition (without pest larvae and traces of rot). It will need to be cleared of fragments of the previous drainage.

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate Dieffenbachia. It is best to carry them out between May and September.

Apical cuttings. Cut off the top, dry the cut with a napkin so that it absorbs the poisonous juice. Place the cuttings in water, moss, moistened sand or a peat-sand mixture.

It is necessary to provide warmth of 21-24 degrees, protection from direct rays of the sun and regular gentle spraying. When the roots grow 2-3 cm, the cuttings can already be planted in a special substrate for domestic Dieffenbachia.

Stem cuttings. If the plant is old, with a bare trunk, it can be given a second life. Cut the bare trunk into pieces, each of which will have at least one node in the middle.

In the compactions, where there used to be leaves, the buds sleep. Place them on a moistened peat-sand mixture with the buds pointing upward and cover with transparent film.

Optimal temperature for rooting: +25. When the roots appear, plant the sprouts in a permanent place, using the usual substrate for your Dieffenbachia.

Air layering. Make a small cut in the stem and insert a match or sliver into it to keep it closed. Then wrap it with moistened moss, and on top of the moss - a transparent film.

Carefully secure it with tape or thread above and below the cut. Soon the roots will sprout under the film, and then part of the stem along with them needs to be cut off and, carefully removing the polyethylene, plant the cuttings in a regular substrate along with moss.

Only bush Dieffenbachia reproduces by division. The bush can be dug up on one side or completely and divided with a knife into several parts with shoots and root shoots, and then planted in different pots.

Temperature

In summer, the optimal temperature for Camilla is 20-30 degrees Celsius. In winter, it should under no circumstances fall below +15. A sharp cold snap or drafts are unacceptable - they will provoke leaf fall.

Benefits and harms

Dieffenbachia juice poisonous: When it comes into contact with mucous membranes or skin, it causes burning, redness, swelling and even slight temporary numbness.

If it gets into the stomach, it is likely to provoke more serious problems: will cause vomiting and paralyze the vocal cords.

Therefore, the plant should be in a place where neither children, nor pets and birds can reach. If the troubles described above do occur, you need to rinse your mouth thoroughly, drink Activated carbon and do not neglect consultation with your doctor.

However, if you do not deal with the sap of the plant, Dieffenbachia will also bring benefits. It purifies the indoor air from various toxins.

Scientific name

Dieffenbachia maculata Camille

Diseases and pests

The main enemies of Dieffenbachia are aphids, thrips, spider mites, scale insects, as well as mealybugs, well known to gardeners.

They need to be removed from the plant with a sponge well soaked in a soap solution. Then the flower must be washed well. If the plant is severely affected by pests, you need to treat it with a solution of actellik or karbofos, dissolving 15 drops in a liter of water.

Root rot can be indicated by a light gray coating, yellowing or wilting of leaves. In this case, you need to immediately transplant the plant into new disinfected soil and treat it with a systemic fungicide.

Rotten areas of the root system should be cut off with a sterile instrument, and the sections should be treated with crushed charcoal or ground cinnamon. From now on, you should water Dieffenbachia less often and more moderately.

Also, young leaves may turn yellow, dry out and fall off due to improper care (cold, draft, hard water or significant lack of fertilizer). However, the drying out of old leaves can also signal the inevitable aging of the plant.

At favorable conditions and error-free care at home Dieffenbachia "Camilla" grows amazingly quickly. In five years it can reach a height of two meters or even greater.

Useful video

Below you can watch a video about Dieffenbachia transplantation:

DIEFENBACHIA - DISEASES and pests in PICTURES. - Our garden

Dieffenbachia gets damaged scale insects, spider mites, mealybugs, aphids And thrips .

If not properly cared for, its leaves may fall off or turn yellow, and some of the leaves and stems may rot.

1. Lower leaves Dieffenbachia

fall off. Too cold.

Move the plant to a higher location

2. Dieffenbachia turns yellow and dries out

(lower dieffenbachia leaves

yellowed, dry) .

Give the plant a chance

dry until it

will recover. Then water

less often, especially in winter.

3. Parts of leaves and stems

Dieffenbachia rotted and became

mucous.

Due to spraying from above when

low temperature. Stop it

Sprinkle these areas with sulfur.

4. Leaves Dieffenbachia on

small at the top .

Not enough light. Put in

brighter place.

5. White woolly spots on

underside of leaves

Dieffenbachia.

pests with a sponge soaked in

methyl alcohol or spend

spraying with malathion or

6. Leaves Dieffenbachia

turn yellow, cobwebs below.

derris, malathion or

Dieffenbachia leaves wither. The reason is too much lighting.

The lower leaves of Dieffenbachia wither and dry out. It is necessary to transfer (transplant) the plant into a larger container.

The color of Dieffenbachia leaves becomes less bright, the leaf has lost its variegation. The plant does not have enough light, the soil contains an excess of nitrogen and a deficiency of phosphorus, potassium and microelements.

U Dieffenbachia the tips of the leaves dry out, and sometimes the entire edge of the leaf. Necrosis. The most common defect during cultivation Dieffenbachia in room conditions. This can be explained by the following reasons: drafts - the plant is standing under the air flow from the air conditioner, low or high air temperature, or excessive dryness, stagnation of water in the pot, moistening the leaves in the dark or in direct sunlight.

Dieffenbachia leaves and stems curl. Soft false scale insects settle on shoots and leaves Dieffenbachia, usually on their upper side along the veins. Leaves and stems become deformed Dieffenbachia leaves are falling t, and herself Dieffenbachia is dying.

Noticeable harm Dieffenbachia applies sooty fungus, settling on the secretions of false scale insects.

U Dieffenbachia The lower leaves turn yellow, Dieffenbachia does not grow. Over time, the plant dies. Dieffenbachia root rot. The occurrence of this disease is promoted by excessively acidic soil with poor aeration and abundant watering. Destroy the plant or apply surgical methods root rot treatment.

Dieffenbachia - diseases and pests.

Dieffenbachia (lat.) is an evergreen tropical plant, its homeland is the humid forests of Central and South America.

Dieffenbachia can reach two meters in height, the leaves are large, wide, and variegated.

With good, competent care, Dieffenbachia pleases with its exotic beauty, the flower develops well, and new leaves constantly appear. But what to do if your “green household member” gets sick?

Most often, gardeners growing Dieffenbachia are faced with the fact that its leaves begin to turn yellow, dry out and curl, and there are other problems - the flower grows poorly and becomes lethargic.

What is the cause of the malaise: improper care at home or a pest attack? Let's look at all the "sores" of Dieffenbachia in more detail and try to determine the cause of their occurrence and methods of treatment.

Dieffenbachia diseases and their treatment

How to help a tropical beauty?

1. Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, reasons, what to do? Solution to the problem:
• low air humidity. Dieffenbachia, not receiving enough moisture from the air, also begins to turn yellow, so in winter it should be kept away from central heating radiators or buy an air humidifier;
• direct sunlight, there should be enough light;
• excessive watering, Dieffenbachia is moisture-loving and watering should be quite abundant, especially in summer;

  It is necessary to check whether the roots of the flower have actually begun to rot. To do this, you need to remove the plant from the pot, inspect the root system, remove rot and affected areas of the root, transplant the flower into another smaller container, observing the planting rules (drainage 1/3 of the pot, 2/3 soil mixed with sand and peat)

• low air temperature. Dieffenbachia is a tropical resident, it loves warmth, so the temperature in the room should not fall below 22 degrees;
• drafts, which the flower really does not like, so it is better to keep Dieffenbachia away from the balcony door and windows;
• Dieffenbachia dries and its leaves fall off, the tips of the leaves dry and wither, causes and solution to the problem:
• fungal infections (atracnose, leaf spot), fungal spores (leaf spot) can be obtained by the plant with irrigation water; dry brown spots appear along the edges of the leaves, gradually spreading over the entire surface of the leaf, it becomes lethargic and lifeless.

  Athracnose is provoked by excessively high temperature in the room, dry air, in some cases, waterlogged soil (excessive watering); to get rid of this problem, it is enough to normalize the temperature and watering regime; the affected leaves can be treated with a regular fungicide to prevent infection of other leaves;

• drafts, low air temperatures can also lead to leaves drying out and falling off; to eliminate the Dieffenbachia problem, you need to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the room;
• the plant ages, the lower leaves dry out and fall off, this is a natural process. It is necessary to rejuvenate it by cuttings. To do this, the bare trunk of Dieffenbachia needs to be cut into cuttings, leaving only a small part of the stem in the pot, which will soon give rise to a new shoot and Dieffenbachia will continue to grow;
• the impact of pests, which we will talk about a little later and in more detail.
• 
  Dieffenbachia withers, causes and solution to the problem:
• fusarium disease, the causative agents of the disease are in the soil, affect the root system, gradually brown oblong spots appear on the leaves and trunk, and the plant begins to wither.

  To combat fusarium, the flower must be transplanted into another pot, after removing rot from the roots and treating the affected areas with a fungicide;

• root rot, which appears when the soil is overly fertilized and moistened. Rot first affects the root system, then gradually affects the trunk, the flower withers and dies. It is necessary to replant Dieffenbachia, having previously treated the roots with a fungicide and limit watering;
• overmoistening in combination with low air temperature, in this case it is necessary to provide the plant with a comfortable temperature and limit watering.
• Dieffenbachia leaves curl or do not unfold as they grow. Causes and solution to the problem:
• When watering with cold water, it is advisable to leave the water for irrigation for at least 24 hours;
• drafts and low room temperature;
• pest attack.
• Dieffenbachia does not grow, causes and solution to the problem:
• viral lesions (bronzing and viral mosaic), usually carried by insects, yellow round spots (bronzing) or a mosaic of spots (viral mosaic) appear on the leaves of the plant, Dieffenbachia withers and stops developing. It is almost impossible to cope with such a problem; the flower must be destroyed;


• there is not enough light. You need to move the flower to a brighter room, but remember that the flower does not tolerate direct sunlight;
• insufficient watering. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp;
• lack of fertilizers in the soil. The lack of fertilizers, as well as their excess, negatively affects the growth and development of Dieffenbachia; the fertilizer must be used strictly according to the instructions indicated on the packaging;
• Dieffenbachia is crying, causes and solution to the problem:
• excessive watering. The flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil; a similar phenomenon can be observed before rain; the plant opens channels for moisture to escape, preparing for an excess of water.

In the photo below you will see the symptoms of the disease in Dieffenbachia:











Pests. Methods to combat them

Despite its poisonous nature, Dieffenbachia is susceptible to attacks by pests, which cause significant harm to it.

It is most often affected by spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects. The method of combating each species is the same: it is necessary to wash the leaves and the trunk of the flower with a sponge soaked in soapy water (which should later be washed off under running warm water) and treat Dieffenbachia with an insecticide solution (karbofos, 15 drops per 1 liter of water).



• scale insect is a small insect with a hard waxy body, it can usually be found on the inside of the leaf; the affected leaves turn pale and fall off;
• the mealybug got its name due to its secretions that look like shreds of fluff, it attacks the leaves, Dieffenbachia begins to turn yellow and fall off, the flower dies;
• spider mite, the presence of which can be determined by the coating of cobwebs on the trunk, the leaves of the flower become sluggish and lifeless;
• aphid is an insect that has a dark green color, it can be seen on the inside of the leaves, aphids are dangerous because they are able to suck out intercellular fluid, weakening the plant and are a carrier of diseases;
• thrips are small beetles that suck the juice from the plant, which leads to curling and drying of the leaves.

Conclusion

Here is all the information about the most common diseases and problems of Dieffenbachia. Of course, it is possible that none of the above may happen to your plant, but: “forewarned is forearmed,” take this article into account and then you will be able to save your favorite Dieffenbachia in any situation.

selo.guru

Description of the plant

Large plants with strong stems. Depending on the variety, the size and color of the leaves vary. There are species with plain and variegated leaves. Some varieties are bushy. Side shoots grow both from the base and at the top of the stem.

The leaves are large, elongated oval in shape. The leaves are arranged alternately on the stem. Dieffenbachia grows quickly. Under favorable conditions, a new young leaf appears every week. Sizes depend on variety and care. There are medium-growing and tall-growing varieties. Medium-sized ones grow up to a meter, tall ones - up to two.

Popular varieties

In total there are more than 50 species of Dieffenbachia. Among them there are natural varieties and varieties bred artificially by breeders.

• Dieffenbachia Baragudina. The variety is interesting due to its unusual coloring. Leaves are dark with occasional white spots different shapes. The petioles and main vein of the leaves are white.
• Dieffenbachia Leopolda. The leaves are elliptical, wide, dark in color, and sit on a short stem. Purple spots appear on the pale petioles. The midribs of the leaves are white.
• Dieffenbachia spotted. The stems are tall - up to a meter. The leaves are large, attached to the stem with long petioles. The shape is lanceolate or oblong-elongated, pointed at the apex. Light spots stand out clearly against the green background.
• Dieffenbachia Seguina. In appearance it resembles a variegated dieffenbachia. The difference is that the leaves are wider, there are fewer spots, and the lateral veins are rarer.
• Dieffenbachia is lovely. An unpretentious variety - resistant to shade and dry air. A tall variety - the height of the stem reaches one and a half meters, the leaves are up to half a meter long. The leaves are dark with white stripes.

Caring for Dieffenbachia and creating the “right” microclimate

This is a tropical plant, so growing Dieffenbachia at home requires creating a favorable microclimate. Without constant care, the plant loses its decorative effect.

• Lighting. For variegated varieties (with variegated leaves) you need an abundance of diffused light. Direct sun exposure is completely excluded. In low light, the characteristic coloring of the variety is lost and the decorative effect is reduced. Varieties with dark, monochromatic leaves tolerate light partial shade. They can be placed in the corner of the room provided there is full artificial lighting.


• Temperature. Dieffenbachia needs a constant temperature regime. She cannot tolerate temperature fluctuations. In summer it is maintained at a level from 21˚С to 25˚С. In winter it’s a little lower – from 18˚С to 20˚С.
• Watering. It is recommended to water Dieffenbachia with warm softened water two days after the soil surface has dried. IN warm time water abundantly throughout the year, but do not allow the soil to become waterlogged.
• Humidity. Spraying is beneficial. If the air is dry, Dieffenbachia is sprayed daily. Young plants are periodically bathed in a warm shower, adults are wiped with a damp soft cloth.
• Feeding. During the warm period, fertilizing is applied three times a month. Complexes are used for decorative deciduous crops, the dosage is halved. A small amount of lime is added periodically. They are fed rarely with organic matter, in moderate quantities - an excess of organic substances leads to a smoothing of the characteristic color.
• Transfer. If the root system no longer fits in the pot, you need to replant the Dieffenbachia. The optimal period for transplantation is spring. Young plants sometimes have to be replanted twice a year. It is better not to disturb the root system. Dieffenbachia is transplanted by transferring it into a new larger pot.
• The soil. Moisture-permeable and permeable soils with weak acidity are used. The soil mixture is made up of peat, sand, deciduous soil, and turf. Universal soils are improved by adding sand, perlite, and crushed charcoal. Important condition full development - high-quality drainage.
• Trimming. Dieffenbachia requires periodic rejuvenation as it grows Bottom part the stem is exposed. The top is cut off to the bare stem, washed to remove milky juice and rooted.

Features of reproduction

It is almost impossible to obtain seeds on your own, so predominantly vegetative propagation methods are used. Cuttings are carried out at any time of the year.

Cuttings

Description. To propagate Dieffenbachia by cuttings, the apical and stem parts are used. The easiest way to root them is in an improvised greenhouse with a heated bottom.

Algorithm of actions

1. After cutting off the top to rejuvenate the Dieffenbachia, the remaining stump in the pot continues to be watered.
2. With timely watering and fertilizing, it will produce lateral shoots, which can also be used for rooting.
3. Cuttings are rooted in water, sand, sand-peat mixture, or sphagnum.
4. The main conditions for successful rooting are moderate temperatures 21–24˚С, bright diffused light, and regular spraying.



Layerings

Description. In practice, air layering is rarely used. In this case, you can damage the mother plant and not get the result.

Algorithm of actions

1. Small cuts are made on the stem, covered with damp sphagnum moss and wrapped in opaque polyethylene.
2. After the roots appear, the stem along with the film is cut off.
3. After cutting, the film is removed, the cuttings along with the moss are planted in a light substrate.

Possible difficulties

Since caring for Dieffenbachia in a pot is not very easy, novice gardeners often encounter difficulties. The most common growing problems are shown in the table.

Table - Difficulties in growing Dieffenbachia

Growing difficulties	Possible reasons
The tips of the leaves dry out	– High or low temperature; – dry air; – drafts; – stagnation of fluid in the root area; – spraying when kept in the sun
Leaf color fades	– Poor lighting; – nitrogen overdose; – lack of phosphorus and potassium
Leaves become smaller and deformed	– Alkalinization of the substrate
The lower leaves wither and dry out	– Cramped pot
The stem loses color and softens	– Decay
The leaves are curling	- Cold; – drafts; – disturbed soil salt balance
Leaf edges turn brown	– Dryness of the substrate; - cold air
Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow	– Keeping in open sun; – dry air; – irregular watering; – lack or excess of fertilizers

All these problems can be eliminated by adjusting care and living conditions. If rotting occurs, immediate transplantation with removal of damaged tissue is recommended. In case of severe rot at the base of the stem, the top is cut off to healthy tissue and rooted.

Major diseases

Diseases are rare. Healthy plants that receive proper care are resistant to viruses, bacteria and fungi. Violation of the conditions of detention weakens Dieffenbachia and increases the likelihood of infection. The main diseases and their manifestations are described in the table.

Table - Dieffenbachia diseases

Name of the disease	Signs	Treatment
Soft rot	– No growth; – pale color; – leaf lethargy; – yellowing of the lower leaves; – cracking of the base of the stem	- Cannot be treated; - root the top to get a new plant
Bacterial spot	– Yellow spots with a clear border along the edges of the leaves	– Treatment with fungicides “Rovral”, “Euparen”, “Fundazol”
Late blight	– Lethargy and drying of individual leaves; – spread of rot from the bottom of the stem to the top	- Cannot be treated; - infected Dieffenbachia is destroyed
Anthracnose	– Weeping spots on leaves	– Trim off the affected leaves; – reduce air humidity; – treated with fungicides “Fundazol”, “Euparen”.

As a preventive measure, Dieffenbachia is periodically sprayed with a weak solution of the fungicide “Fundazol”, the condition of the soil is monitored, waterlogging is avoided, and high-quality drainage is provided.



Frequent pests

Almost all pests appear at low air humidity. Infection can occur from recently purchased plants or poor-quality soil. Some insects enter the apartment through open windows. Signs of the appearance of the main pests and methods of combating them are given in the table.

Table - Pests of Dieffenbachia

Insect name	Signs of appearance	Control measures
Aphids	– Leaf curl; – yellowing of leaves; – sticky, sticky discharge	– Washing the leaves with soapy water; – spraying with tobacco dust, preparations “Akarin”, “Zubr”, “Iskra”
Shields	– Golden-brown plaques on the stems; – drops of sticky liquid	– Mechanical cleaning of plants from pests; – wiping the affected areas with alcohol or kerosene; – spraying with insecticides “Inta-vir”, “Aktellik”
Chervetsy	– Waxy whitish discharge on the petioles and veins of leaves	– Mineral oil treatment; – treatment with insecticides
Spider mite	– Appearance of yellowish dots; – formation of dried, colorless areas; - cobwebs on the back of the leaves	– Treatment with soap solution; – spraying with insectoacaricides
Thrips	– Yellowish-white color of individual parts of the leaves; – dark spots; – drying out and falling of leaves	– Repeated use of insecticides “Fitoverm”, “Iskra”, “Tanrek”

Caring for Dieffenbachia is not the easiest, but the effort and time spent are fully repaid by the high decorativeness of the plant. Dieffenbachia is an ideal option for landscaping spacious apartments and office spaces.

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Fungal diseases

Dieffenbachia, which belongs to tropical ornamental crops, is often subject to fungal diseases. The main reasons are high humidity and high indoor air temperature, as well as excessive watering. If you notice that Dieffenbachia has stopped growing and developing, has begun to wither, turn yellow, bend toward the ground, or dry out, reconsider the growing conditions and the features of caring for your indoor flower.



Anthracnose

Spores of the fungus Colletotrichum gloeosporioides lead to the development of anthracnose. First, small spots appear on the leaves, which gradually grow and cover the entire surface of the leaf plate. The leaves begin to curl inward or, conversely, unwind outward. The cuttings die, causing the leaves to fall off.
When answering the question of what to do if the leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow, it is recommended first of all to reconsider the conditions in which the ornamental crop grows. Leaves may curl or open incorrectly as a result of inappropriate humidity and high air temperatures. Systemic fungicidal preparations will help effectively cope with anthracnose, in particular we're talking about about "Vitaros" and "Fundazol".



Fusarium

Fusarium blight is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium solani and appears as dark depressed spots on the roots and root collar of Dieffenbachia. As a result of damage to the root system, the leaves begin to turn yellow and turn into reverse side and fade. In this case, the damaged areas are covered with pinkish mycelium of the fungus. In order to prevent fusarium, you can use Glyokladin and Trichodermin, but if there is an abundance



Leaf spot

Phaeosphaeria eustoma fungi provoke the development of leaf spot in Dieffenbachia. Fungal spores are transmitted by infected plants and also by water. The main signs of the disease are considered small size brown drops with bright orange edges on the leaves of an indoor flower.

The disease develops rapidly, the spots increase in size and cover an increasingly larger area of ​​the leaf plate. To cope with leaf spotting, you need to maintain optimal temperature conditions in the room and appropriate air humidity. At the first symptoms, it is recommended to treat indoor flowers with Fundazol or Vitaros.



Root rot

Pathogens of root rot are Pythium and Phytophthora fungi. Identify the disease initial stage almost impossible, since fungal infection pathogens infect the root and root collar of Dieffenbachia. Brown spots covered with pale gray mycelium form in the lower part of the trunk. As a result of rotting, the trunk gradually breaks and the flower begins to fall off.

The main causes of root rot include: contaminated soil, lack of a drainage system, excess moisture in the soil, high air temperature, poor room ventilation, lack of lighting, improper application of fertilizers, etc. Many novice gardeners are interested in how to effectively deal with root rot. In addition to following the technique of growing Dieffenbachia, it is recommended to partially replace the substrate, feed the flower with potassium fertilizers and treat it with a systemic fungicide. In this case, “Profit Gold”, “Previkur” or “Ridomil Gold” are suitable.



Bacteriosis

Sometimes Dieffenbachia suffers from bacteriosis, which manifests itself in the form of watery spots with clear boundaries of a gray or brown tint. In this case, not only the aboveground, but also the underground part of the plant trunk suffers. Over time, gray-brown watery spots begin to appear on the leaves.

The causative agents of bacteriosis are stored in fragments of previously infected plants, and are also transmitted through mechanical damage to indoor flowers.

Unfortunately, bacteriosis is a bacterial disease that is almost impossible to cope with. If a houseplant is affected by the pathogens of this disease, it is necessary to treat the flower with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, after first removing the damaged leaves and branches. Follow agricultural practices and always work with clean tools.



Video “Dieffenbachia and pests”

In this video you will hear useful tips for caring for Dieffenbachia.

Viral diseases

To answer the question of why Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, one should not exclude the possibility of a viral disease. Even with properly organized care, tropical ornamental crops often suffer from leaf bronzing and viral mosaic.

Bronzing of leaves

On the leaves of Dieffenbachia affected by the pathogens of this infection, small ring-shaped spots, yellow arcs and concentric circles appear, which begin to rapidly grow in size. The leaf blade gradually withers, signs of unilateral necrosis are observed on the stems, and growth processes slow down. If you don't take action emergency measures to save a home flower, the plant will soon die. Bronzing of leaves is carried by harmful insects, especially thrips.



Viral mosaic

The Dasheen mosaic virus is the cause of the disease called viral mosaic in exotic Dieffenbachia. The main symptoms of this disease include the suspension of growth processes and the presence of mosaic spots on the surface of the leaves. The pathogen of the disease is transmitted by cuttings or insect pests (in particular, aphids), and also persists in previously infected indoor plants.

And now we’ll find out how to deal with viral infections, due to which Dieffenbachia can turn yellow, wither, shed leaves and rot. In the fight against viruses that quickly infect the stems and leaves of indoor plants, you need to act urgently. They will come to the rescue modern drugs insecticidal action, among which “Aktara” and “Fitoverm” are very popular among gardeners.



Prevention

Many novice gardeners are often interested in why the lower leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow, curl and fall off. As experts note, proper care helps prevent diseases of indoor plants and effectively protects against attacks by insect pests.

The main conditions for growing Dieffenbachia include:

• maintaining optimal temperature conditions depending on the time of year and humidity level (+15…+20 °C);
• regular watering and daily spraying of the above-ground parts of the plant with settled water;
• During the period of active growth, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in liquid form is required (once every 10 days).

If you follow simple rules for caring for indoor flowers, you can grow a luxurious and healthy plant.

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Popular types

• Dieffenbachia lovely. It grows and develops well in apartments that have central heating; this species tolerates shade well. It has very large flatocyanone green elongated leaves up to 50 cm, with white stripes along the veins. This Dieffenbachia is grown for decorating apartments and offices.
• Dieffenbachia Leopold- a compact plant, its stem grows up to 5 cm. Its leaves are longer than petioles of light green color with pale purple-red spots. The birthplace of this flower is Costa Rica.
• Dieffenbachia Camilla grows naturally in South America. Up to 2 m in height. Camilla has pale green leaves. The downside of the flower is the slow exposure of the trunk below. Homemade Camilla may not bloom.
• Dieffenbachia Mix grows in the tropics and subtropics of Central and South America. Now there are 50 species of this flower. He prefers bright places. Its pale green leaves are covered with patterns of different shades.
• Dieffenbachia bush looks like Dieffenbachia Leopold. It is very easy to grow. It is up to 70 cm in height. The leaves are pale green in color and have a white vein in the middle.

Rules of care

To ensure that the leaves do not lose their decorative value, Dieffenbachia should be placed in a well-lit place. Let the flower stand on the southern windowsill in spring and winter. At this time, you can still artificially illuminate the flower with fluorescent lamps. But in summer the flower is shaded a little, as it does not like direct rays of the sun.

It is necessary to constantly water Dieffenbachia and spray it daily, or limescale will appear on the leaves. In summer, more water is used than in winter. The plant grows well in summer at 20-22°C, and in winter at air temperature 15-18°C, but if the humidity is high, it can grow at 30°C. But she doesn’t like stagnant water. Therefore, it is best to spray it with settled water more often. You can place a container with moistened sand near the flower.

Wash the flower in the shower every week.

After 10 days, the plant needs to be fed with liquid mineral fertilizers. In winter it is not fed, it rests. Loosen the soil periodically.

When and how to replant?

Since Dieffenbachia grows very quickly, it is necessary to replant it every year in the spring. This is done, trying to prevent the earth from falling off the roots. The new pot is chosen to be slightly larger in diameter than the previous one.

If you buy a larger pot, when planting the plant, the soil where the roots do not reach will oxidize, and the Dieffenbachia may die

Step-by-step instruction

1. The young plant grows very quickly, which is why it needs to be replanted annually in the spring. First, make the soil from 2 parts turf soil, 1 part peat, 1 part humus and 0.5 parts sand.
2. The new pot should be 2 cm larger than the previous one. There should be holes for drainage at the bottom of the pot.
3. Place broken shards, pebbles, and expanded clay on the bottom. Then add a little soil and turn over the plant, being careful not to destroy the lump of earth. Then pour plenty of warm, settled water.

How to propagate?

1. In spring and summer, it is necessary to pinch off the top and then root it in moistened sand. The cuttings are covered with plastic wrap and sometimes ventilated.
2. Another method is possible - an incision is made on the stem 0.5 cm below the leaf, a wet match is placed there, which is sprinkled with a special powder for rooting plants. Then cover with damp moss, then with film. After 3-4 months, roots grow through the moss. You need to cut off the cutting below the roots and plant it in a pot with a diameter of 10-12 cm. The remaining part of the stem needs to be divided into parts so that each has 1 dormant bud. The resulting sections are sprinkled with coal and then dried. Then the cuttings are rooted, planted halfway in the ground, and covered with film or a jar.

Pests



To eliminate all these pests, you need to thoroughly wash the plant with a sponge, which you need to dip in soapy water, and then rinse the flower with warm water. If there are a lot of insects, then it is sprayed with insecticides: Karbofos, Actellik. 15 drops of the drug are diluted in 1 liter of water.

Diseases



Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Leaves may turn yellow due to too low temperatures in winter. Also, the leaves turn yellow when the room is ventilated, due to lack of fertilizers and watering with unsoftened water, due to root rot disease.

If the lower leaves have turned yellow and the top is actively growing, then the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot.

Do not forget that Dieffenbachia is poisonous; if its juice gets on the skin, it becomes inflamed. When washing in the shower or other handling of the flower, wear gloves. Keep your pets and children away from the flower.

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Optimal conditions for the development of Dieffenbachia at home

Although Dieffenbachia is a favorite resident of the window sills of many homes and offices, it still requires a lot of attention to care. Dieffenbachia is very capricious, therefore, those who grow it often face various difficulties. You need to choose a place for a pot with an indoor flower based on the color of the leaves. If they are monochromatic, then the plant should be placed in the back of the room, away from the light. Dieffenbachia tolerates shade well. But in this case, she will need additional lighting, especially in winter. In any case, it is necessary to avoid windows on the south side, since direct sunlight may cause the plant to die.



The correct development of a tree also depends on temperature. So for the warm season, the permissible norm in the room should be + 21 + 25. In winter and autumn, the air temperature should be from +15 to +20. There should be no drafts, wind or sudden temperature changes in the places where the flower pot is located. To water Dieffenbachia, you need to use pre-prepared water, which infused for at least a day. In the cold season, you need to water the soil after its top layer has dried out a little. In summer and spring, watering should be regular and abundant. The soil should not dry out.

Dieffenbachia responds very well to water procedures , for this it needs to be periodically sprayed with a spray bottle. This must be done so that excess moisture does not fall on the soil; it can be covered with polyethylene. If the plant is already large, the leaves can be wiped with a damp cloth. For proper development Dieffenbachia needs feeding. To do this, you need to select fertilizers that do not contain lime. The procedure is carried out on average three times a month.

Features of growing Dieffenbachia (video)

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow and dry?

Since the exotic guest is quite capricious, her leaves often turn yellow and dry out. This can be caused by both disturbances in the care process and diseases, which are quite common for this particular type of plant. Why do plant leaves turn yellow?

Violation of care rules

Several factors can lead to violation of plant care rules. In first place is improper watering- it can be either excessively abundant or insufficient. The air in the room where Dieffenbachia is located can be very dry. This also applies to office premises, where the lighting is in most cases artificial, and the flowerpot itself is on the windowsill, where sunlight practically does not penetrate. No matter how strange it may sound, but pets may also be involved in violations of plant care. They may chew or scratch the leaves of the flower, but the damage may not be noticeable at first glance. In this way, an infection can be introduced that interferes with the normal development of the plant.



Dieffenbachia diseases and methods of their treatment

Dieffenbachia, like any living creature, can get sick and be affected by infections. Normal development plants can be affected by fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Leaf spotting, which forms first at the edges of the foliage and then spreads to the entire blade, can be caused by improper room temperature or high humidity. Also Excessive watering and accumulation of liquid in the soil can cause stains. To avoid such phenomena, it is necessary not only to reconsider the systematicity of irrigation, but also the water itself that is used for these purposes.



Anthractosis- at fungal disease stems and leaves are affected by small orange spots, which over time merge into one large lesion, leading to complete drying of the leaf. It occurs for the same reasons as regular spotting. Treatment of affected areas of the plant is carried out by spraying Dieffenbachia with fungicides.

Fusarios — infection flower, which affects the roots and basal part of Dieffenbachia. Long orange spots appear on the affected areas, which lead to drying out and death of the plant. The appearance of such an infection is caused by overdried soil and lack of fertilizers. To cure a tree, you need to remove the roots from the pot, rinse it under water and get rid of the contaminated soil. Then spray the roots several times with preparations containing fungicides and transplant the plant into new soil.

How to deal with Dieffenbachia pests (video)

Root rot can also lead to yellowing and drying of leaves.. To do this, as in the previous case, it is necessary to dig out the roots and clean them of infection. If the roots are black and have bad smell- this is a sure sign of the disease. It can be caused by overwatering. To treat Dieffenbachia, you need to clean the infected roots, replant it in a new place, treat the soil with a fungicide and reconsider the watering.

The leaves of the plant may be subject to bacteriosis, during which watery spots with clear boundaries along the edges appear on the affected areas. Development of this disease may be caused by infection during transplantation or cuttings. To get rid of the infection, you need to spray the plant with preparations containing copper.



Dieffenbachia pests affecting the condition of leaves

• spider mite
• mealybug
• scale insect



Natural causes

Natural causes can also lead to yellowing of Dieffenbachia leaves. In general, this is a natural process that affects older lower leaves. However, when the first spots and dry areas appear on the leaves, there is no need to rush to get rid of them and cut them off at the root. You need to wait until the leaves are completely dry and begin to fall off. Flower growers claim that pruning leaves causes great harm to the plant.

Why do drops form on Dieffenbachia leaves?

It happens that drops form on the leaves of Dieffenbachia; flower growers call this “Dieffenbachia is crying.” In most cases, this is a natural process in which moisture is released through special mouths - hydathodes. If the phenomenon occurs quite often, you need to reduce the amount of watering, but do it carefully to prevent the soil from drying out.



What to do if Dieffenbachia has small leaves

It happens that the leaves of a flower develop disproportionately to the trunk; in a word, they are very small or can curl at the edges. Sudden changes in temperature in the room where the plant is located can contribute to this disorder. It is important to provide the flower with the correct level of humidity, especially in winter, when the batteries in the house start to work. It is also recommended to spray Dieffenbachia leaves with special fertilizers.

Dieffenbachia leaf propagation technology

The beauty of Dieffenbachia is that it is quite easy to propagate. For this would be better suited is already an adult plant, more than two years old. It is better to cut the leaf from the very top and as close to the trunk as possible., leaving a few buds on it. To avoid excessive sap production, reduce watering a few days before pruning. It is better to trim the cuttings with a sharp serrated blade so as not to injure the internal fibers. The cut top can be placed in water or immediately planted on ready soil.

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Pests of Dieffenbachia

Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.

The most common:

Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.

Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.

Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.

The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).

Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.

Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.

Leaf spot



Anthracnose



Fusarium



Root rot





Bronzing of Dieffenbachia



Viral mosaic



Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow?

Why does Dieffenbachia dry out?

Why does Dieffenbachia cry?

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Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:

Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf blade. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.

Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.

Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.

Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.

To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.

Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.

Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.

Viral diseases include:

Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.

Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.

Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.

Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia

In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and unsuitable living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.

Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.

Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.

Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.

Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.

Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.

Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.

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Dieffenbachia is a fairly common houseplant. Caring for it is not difficult. However, flower growers are interested in Dieffenbachia, what to do in this case, how can you help the plant? In this article we will try to answer these questions.

But first you need to find out why the leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow, what reasons contribute to the development of this disease. They may be different. Conventionally, experts divide them into three categories: pests, diseases, and improper care.

Dieffenbachia: leaves turn yellow. What to do?

Dieffenbachia is a light and fairly unpretentious plant to care for. At the same time, it is accustomed to a humid tropical climate, and therefore has a number of maintenance requirements. First of all, the gardener in whose house Dieffenbachia grows needs to know: the leaves of the plant often turn yellow due to insufficient light, improper watering and choice of soil, or low temperature.

Illumination

This indoor flower prefers diffused lighting (2500-2700 lux), does not tolerate direct sunlight. At the same time, it requires additional lighting in the dark season. With its help, daylight hours should be at least 10 hours. The bright sun causes the leaves to burn, after which brown dry spots appear on the surface of the leaf blade, which surround large yellowed areas.



To return the plant to an attractive appearance, the affected leaves must be cut off - they will not be able to recover. Insufficient lighting can negatively affect the overall color of the leaves. For a plant located in the shade, on a north window or at the back of the room, the leaves may initially turn pale, and then they will acquire a slight yellowish tint. But dealing with this problem is quite simple: just move the flower to a more illuminated place - and Dieffenbachia will again delight you with its bright color.

Watering

Another extremely important factor, which many novice gardeners neglect. Dieffenbachia does not tolerate excessive amounts of moisture. In this case, the lower leaves turn yellow due to loss of roots. Yellowness in this situation is the last stage, which is accompanied by blackening of the stems. The gardener's mistake is waterlogging of the soil.

When the soil is not allowed to dry out between waterings, its aeration is disrupted, the roots suffocate and rot. This process is accelerated by the development of algae on the surface of the soil, the walls of the pot, as well as the sudden awakening of fungal spores. Is Dieffenbachia really doomed in this case too? In this case, the leaves turn yellow, giving you a signal that the plant needs urgent help. At the initial stage it is quite easy to save. Transplant the flower into another soil, after first clearing it of rotten roots.



Several external factors indicate the need for such a transplant:

• the soil surface becomes slimy;
• a greenish coating appears;
• upon subsequent watering (even if the soil has dried out), an unpleasant odor appears.

To avoid the development of rot, a good drainage layer must be formed at the bottom of the pot, which will save the plant from excess moisture, and the pot must be selected according to the size of the root system.

Sometimes gardeners say that, despite the fact that Dieffenbachia is not watered too much, the leaves turn yellow. The reason may be that the soil is too dry. It is less destructive for the plant, but sometimes it can also cause its death.

And another mistake that many indoor plant lovers make is watering with hard water. It can cause the skin to turn pale and then yellow. To prevent and treat this disease, you should water the plant only with soft, settled water. Dieffenbachia needs to be fed from time to time



Why do the lower leaves of Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Soil selection and fertilizing

This plant loves moisture- and breathable, slightly acidic soils with high levels of humic acids, phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. If the soil is chosen incorrectly, with an imbalance in the salt balance, then the roots will not be able to perform their functions, and nutrients will become unavailable to the flower.

This will immediately show you to your appearance dieffenbachia - leaves turn yellow (mainly the lower, adult ones). Moreover, the plant will slow down and new growth will be underdeveloped and weak. When the soil contains insufficient amounts of potassium and phosphorus, or when there is an excess of nitrogen, the upper leaves of the flower will turn yellow. Therefore, feeding should be strictly dosed. Balanced complex fertilizers for deciduous ornamental plants are most suitable for this.

Temperature

Dieffenbachia is a heat-loving plant. It requires moderate temperatures throughout the year. It can tolerate a short-term drop in temperature to +10...+12 °C, however, after suffering stress, the lower leaves will certainly turn yellow and fall off.

But Dieffenbachia categorically does not tolerate temperature changes and drafts. In this case, the leaves turn yellow first along the edges, and then begin to dry out. This is a very common phenomenon, called necrosis, and is well known to many gardeners.

Pests

Like most indoor plants, Dieffenbachia is susceptible to pest attacks. These are, first of all, aphids, scale insects, thrips, mealybugs, and the biggest problems are caused by spider mites. All these pests suck the juice from the shoots and leaves, which leads to depletion of the plant, retardation in its development and deformation of young shoots.



Often yellowed leaves signal an invasion of uninvited guests. This is especially common when the plant is infected with spider mites. First on outside groups of small yellow dots appear on the leaf plate, which grow quite quickly, discoloring almost the entire leaf. At the same time, from the inside it (and the petiole) is covered with a thin cobweb, along which barely noticeable brown “dots” move. These are ticks.

Infected leaves cannot be restored; they should be cut off and the entire plant should be washed thoroughly under warm water(about +40 °C), having previously protected the ground from excess moisture. If this is not enough for complete cure, then the procedure is repeated or the plant is treated with a special chemical preparation, for example, “Fitoverm” or “Aktellik”.



Diseases

One of the most serious reasons appearance yellow spots on Dieffenbachia leaves - viral, fungal and infectious diseases. They are not always easy to identify, however, we will describe the most common ones.

Fungal diseases

Anthracnose- large black-brown spots with a yellowish border appear on the edge of the leaf and next to it. Gradually the leaf dries out and dies.

Root rot - dark spots appear on the root collar; light gray mycelium can be seen on the roots. As the disease progresses, the leaves turn yellow, droop, and the plant dies. The fungus is transferred through the soil and develops in a new place with excessive watering and high humidity.



Leaf spot- small brown spots with an orange border appear on the leaf blades. Gradually they grow and cover the entire surface of the leaf. Infection occurs through the remains of diseased leaves and water. The disease is aggravated by waterlogging.

TO preventive measures in the fight against fungal diseases include:

• use of high-quality soil;
• compliance with all requirements for the conditions of plant maintenance.

When the first suspicious signs of a disease are detected, the plant must be treated with a systemic fungicide, for example, “Fundazol” or “Vitaros”.

Bacterial diseases

The most dangerous of them is bacteriosis It leads to the death of the plant. On an infected flower, watery areas with clearly visible boundaries appear on the leaves and stems. Gradually they turn brown or turn brown. The disease is transmitted from one diseased plant to another through damage to the stems. Treatment for this disease has not yet been developed.

Viral diseases

Bronzing- yellow round or ring-shaped spots appear on the leaves. Gradually, the affected leaves wither, although they remain on the branches.

Viral mosaic- on the leaf plate you can immediately see numerous round spots of dark green color with a light center. The plant stops developing.

Viruses are transferred from an infected plant to a healthy one either through direct contact or by pests: aphids and thrips. It is impossible to cure the plant, so it is destroyed.

Leaf senescence

Dieffenbachia is a fast-growing plant, so it tends to bare its stem. There is no need to worry if one of the lower leaves of a flower has yellowed and fallen off, and this unpleasant defect has not spread to the rest of the plant. This shows that the natural process of aging and dying occurs.